I searched for the post, but could not find it. It described the steps with the different Meguiars stuff. I used #9 with the PC. It took care of most of my problems. There are still some swirl marks left. What should I go up to next? If I go up to #83 will I have to go over it with something less after that.
Thanks

 

#9 is more of a filler versus an abrasive polish... moving up in swirl removal potential, you're going to need to look at a product like #80 -- Speed Glaze. SG is more of a removal product versus a 'filler' product.

How bad are we talking about here?

RP

 

Not too bad. Just the common swirl marks on a black truck. I couldn't remember if #80 or #83 was the next one up.
Thanks,
Craig

 

I hope you dont need 83, its not very user friendly at all. 80 on the other hand is an excellent product.......Leaves some trademark oils behind for filling. What type of pads are you using?

 

The 8006 polishing pad.

 

Personally, I find that #83 is a monster to work with a PC -- in fact, I almost never use it with a PC... I just don't think I generate enough heat to properly break down the product in order for it to work correctly.

The 8006 polishing pad is the right choice of pads -- if you're wanting to utilize Meg's pads.

 

ckoerner,

RP and exceldetail (hello Patrick ) have given you some good info, I'll add a little more. As they said, #83 can be a bit difficult to work with when using a PC... it can be done, but it takes some care. The #80 is more aggressive than the #9, and should remove more of the swirls.

In the end, it's good to have several products with different levels of aggressiveness, as "swirls" tend to vary on most paint surfaces. You will probably find certain areas where the swirls are more noticeable, or difficult to remove. Those areas will require a bit more aggressive product. (Remember to dedicate a pad to a product - you will have to switch pads to try a different product).

If the #80 doesn't finish off your swirls, a product like Poorboy's SSR2.5 may work, as the SSR2.5 is a bit more aggressive than #80... but not much. You might also consider a bit more aggressive pad with any of the above products.

Ideally, I like to approach it like this:

If the swirls are considerably noticeable, I take a fairly aggressive pad and product and work a 2' X 2' area once.

Then, I wipe the area clean with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. This removes any fillers, and shows the true extent of the swirls. (under correct lighting)

If the swirls have been reduced, you probably have the right combo, and you can work the area again with the same pad/product and repeat the wiping process. Or, you can leave it like that if the swirls seem to be gone (combination of remove and fillers hiding them). You can also try stepping down in product/pad combination to remove any remaining swirls. This minimizes paint removal.

If the swirls are still significant after working the area completely once or twice, you are going to have to step up in product and/or pad combination. Obviously, swirls can be so bad that a PC, and products used with a PC won't take care of them.

If the swirls are "gone" after one pass, you've probably selected a product/pad combination that is too aggressive... this rarely happens with a PC though.

Just remember, "true" swirl removal is really "paint" removal. Therefore, you want to minimize the amount of paint removed while still accomplishing the job. Having products with various levels of cutting power, and checking your work properly after each step will insure that your approach is correct. Of course, this is why a lot of products have fillers... to hide swirls as much as remove them... which is not a bad thing.

Hope this helps.

 

Great post Boss!!

 

Thanks RP!

 

Thanks Guys!

 

You becha!

 

Well I finally did it the other day with the #80. Last time I do it on a 90deg day. After washing it took about 5.5hrs to PC with the #80 and wax it. Got most of the swirls out. Still some there. It seems almost impossible to get any of the swirls out of the fiberglass tonneau cover. Then after it was all done I go for a ride and it rains. Funny how there was no rain in the forecast. Should I try Poorboy's SSR2.5 or the more aggressive pad next as Boss suggested?
Thanks,
Craig

 

Here's my take -- this coming from a guy who has an ARE LSII fiberglass tonneau on his truck...

Some seem to think that these things are ultra-soft and are simple to deal with -- quite the contrary from my experience. The paint is VERY hard -- so much so that I've had to pull out my rotary and use some mega-patience to get mine looking how I wanted it.

Now, don't get me wrong, some may be simple to deal with but, in my case, it's not.

In my opinion, I'd try to more aggressive pad in a slower, more methodical technique. It may or may not work but, I think it may... how many tries did you give the #80 on the tonneau before giving up? Keep in mind, you don't always get everything on the first pass -- or second or third sometimes... I guess what I'm saying is that it may be worth your time to do an extra pass or two with your current setup to see what it accomplishes.... just a thought that may save you a buck or three. *shrugs*

RP

 

I did two passes on the cover. I try to overlap back over 50% of what I just did when I move on to the next area. My neighbors think I'm crazy, but at least I take care of my vehicle. They sure don't! Thanks RockPick.

 

Toss the # 9 away and go with #80 as a light swirl remover and glaze. I was told that by a guy by the name of scottwax on Autopia and he was right on. I haven't touched my #9 since. The beauty of #80 is that it has some nice diminishing abrasives that eventually breakdown and leave you with a ready to top finish. I like to go one more step though with Clearkotes VM or RMG depending on what color I'm working on. #83 has been a good 1st step for some of the heavier swirls and scratches, but I'm going to try some Optimium Compund here soon as #83 can be a little harder to work with, but not bad over all. I'm always looking for an easier and better method.