First Wash n' Wax Today-- Lots of Questions

Old Jul 25, 2005 | 12:00 AM
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From: Attleboro, MA
First Wash n' Wax Today-- Lots of Questions

Well I finally finished washing, drying and getting a coat of Meguiar's NXT wax on her. Thought I'd wait this afternoon so it would be cooler and less sun; I didn't get started until 5:30PM, and didn't finish until 10:00PM. Feeding the bugs and working by halogen has its minuses. Note to self-- screw the sun and start earlier next time. So now I'm checking out some of the threads and I see that a lot of people recommend two coats of the NXT. How does that work? It looks like 8-12 hours is the recommended cure time between coats. Well 8-12 hours and my parking spot, and I'm going to need another wash.

Am I correct in thinking that a wash leaves most of the wax on, so another wax would then be the second coat? Once I get the second coat on, I was just planning on doing the weekly or bi-weekly wash; and keeping an eye on the bead when she gets wet before I wax again. Do you dry rain drops? I don't want water spot etching, but it has been my experience that raindrops can be pretty gritty, so I would be worried about scratches if I were to try and wipe them up. How long can a water spot stay before it becomes a problem? How about a dry wash spray? Anyone use or recommend this stuff between full washes?

Also wondering how you all reach all the spots on your truck when washing. I had a 6' and a 4' step ladder on each side of my cab, but it was still a stretch. Moved the ladders a couple of times because the crew roof was so long and again to reach the middle of the hood at the windshield base. Anyone have any easier methods? I also only did my paint today. What do you all use for the black rubber and plastic on the window moldings, bed rails, door handles, and mirror housings? I also have the bright tubular factory running bars and the Lariat chrome around my grill. What is recommended for chrome? How about the interior? I don't want the Armorall slipperys; damp cloth only? Glass cleaner recommends? Am I missing anything? Basically I want to keep my truck looking like new for as long as possible, with the least amount of effort.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 12:18 AM
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Hi SC...

I'd recommend getting a good Quick Detailer product like Meguiar's Quik Detailer or Poorboy's Spray and Wipe (for a slightly dirtier vehicle). Both are great to use for touch-ups (dust, smudges etc). This can solve your problem as to the second coat of NXT.

Almost everyone will recommend at least two coats in order to get a little thicker build on the paint and also to ensure coverage over the entire vehicle. The 8 hour cure time is important but, is, in my opinion, a bit exagerated. You can probably apply sooner than that but, taking environmental conditions in to consideration was where Meguiar's err'd on the cautious side as that's more in the 'worst case sceanario' climate.

Rain drops: I typically use Spray & Wipe along with the drying of rain drops. Often times, I'll spray the vehicle off too and then use the S&W to dry with... The S&W offers very good lubrication to help to reduce the possibility of introducing swirls from something that might be on your paint. It is marketed as a 'waterless wash' product but, I simply don't believe in or use anything totally dry. Basically, S&W is a product that I'll use for slightly heavier dusting situations verus a product like Final Inspection or Last Touch for not so heavy dust/smudges etc. While no product is perfect, S&W is a very good one. Also, be sure that you're using high quality microfiber and/or waffleweave towels. The length of dwell time for a drop of water depends solely on what's in solution and/or in suspension within the droplet. Rain water, by nature, isn't bad... it's the stuff that it picks up on the way down (industrial fallout, dust, etc) that can cause problems. Odds are, you won't see etching from simple rain; even in industrialized areas IMO.

I'm 6'2" and have no problems reaching where I need to reach. I do, however, have a rubbermaid step stool for the roof and my lid. I have been known to pull out the 6' ladder for a client vehicle or two though.

I don't like to use much of anything on the black rubber etc as smears and such are always a problem. If I am to use anything there, it's typically Vinylex.

Treat your chrome just like your paint because I believe that it's clearcoated (I may be wrong here though -- I haven't worked on a new F-150 with tubulars). Either way, treat it like paint (ie: wax and be very careful with it because IT WILL SCRATCH).

Interior -- I hate greasy slimy feeling products in the interior and thus, I totally avoid them. I'd recommend going with a product like Meguiar's Quik Detailer Interior. It's really a great product. Damp cloth is also a good way to go but, on occasion, you'll want something that offers a touch of UV protection... M QD I has that...

Glass -- Stoner's Invisisble Glass (Wal Mart has this) or Meguiar's NXT Glass Cleaner. Both are TREMENDOUS products.


I hope that helps out a bit...

RP
 
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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It does. Thanks for the pointers RP. Good to know about the tubulars. I hit them today with a nylon body brush that I had ditched for body use after reading about swirls and moving to a microfiber mitt. I'll have to make sure the brush isn't too harsh on the chrome. I didn't wax the bars when I did the body; didn't realize that they were clear-coated. My Dad said something about a chrome polish, which is what I was thinking you used. Wash and wax is definitely easier for me though-- one less product. My arm sure is beat after almost five hours of washing and waxing and since it was dark by the time I finished, I'm still not totally sure I buffed all the wax out. It looked okay in the halogen, but I'll have to see it under sunlight tomorrow. The PC option seems better and better...
 
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