I used painters tape when I did my truck. It worked fine. After the fact I found there may be different levels of adhesion in these tapes. Perhaps someone can clarify this.

Joe

 

Yeah, I don't wanna go sticking tape on my paint that will leave a sticky residue when pulled off.

 

Absolutely. I use it ALL THE TIME...

It's kind of pricey to purchase when you get right down to it but, it's worth it to me. I will ONLY use 3m blue though. I've never had any problems with left behind adhesive or similar.... not even in some direct sunlight. It's really good stuff (and should be for what you have to pay for it).

RP

 

I also use the blue tape. I have 2 different sizes that make certain jobs much easier. I've also never experienced "stick-on"

-slippy

 

Alright cool; I may need to use it soon.

 

True enough. The Porter Cable 7424 is the same animal, but I believe it only has a one year warranty vs. Meguiars lifetime warranty.

You can also get Meg's polisher from ADS.

SL

 

RP or anyone,

What do you use to remove scratches then, when the highest machine you have to work with is a PC? Will Scratch X help? These scratches are not below the clearcoat BTW. But you can definitely see them.

 

#83 is a viable option but, IMO, 83 is a tad difficult to work with using a PC. I just don't feel like the product breaks down real well with that machine or, if it does, it takes an EXTENDED amount of time.

I'm a firm believer in Speed Glaze (#80) with the PC on '4'.

Both products will remove swirls/scratches but neither will do much to 'conceal' them.

 

Well, isn't it better to remove them than to conceal them? That's good, right?

I agree, #83 does take a while to breakdown. If you try to remove it while it hasn't broken down all the way yet, it's difficult.

So #83, then #80 would remove the scratches? (the scratches were from a kid hitting a stick against the paint)

Could I use ScratchX at all?

 

I think I might have generated a bit of confusion with my initial response...

Concealing is, of course, just covering them up. Much like women use make up.

Removing is actually taking a very thin layer of clearcoat off of the top.

Removing, in my honest opinion, is, easily, the best choice.

What I was mentioning in my original post is that #83 will do a great job of removing the swirls versus concealing them. But, with the oils and such utilized in the product, there is a slim chance that you'll note some concealing when the product is used. Make more sense?

Without having seen your scratches, it's a tough call. #83 and #80 (and Scratch-X) are all abrasive and thus, they will remove a very very thin layer of the clear so that the scratch can be, at least, minimized (by removal). If any of the three products can remove it would have to be tested by you since it's a tough call without seeing them...

RP

 

Thanks for the input. Lemme get this straight; if a product is 'abrasive,' that means it removes a small layer of the clearcoat in order to REMOVE the swirls/scratches? Because the scratch LIES ON TOP OF the clearcoat?

In what order would you use ScratchX, #83 and #80, along with what pads/PC speeds?


Questions questions.

 

Correct. That's the only purpose of the abrasive ingredient in the product.



Incorrect. The scratch is actually into the clear coat. Thus, to make it flat again, you have to remove clear around it to make it flat again.

Think of it like this... wet concrete. You take a stick and write your name in it. While it's still wet, you take a trowel and smooth it all back out. Same general principal.



I wouldn't use all three. I'd use the least aggressive first and with multiple applications.

In this case, #80 or Scratch X would be the lesser evils. Further, if the scratches are localized, I would probably go with hand application; especially if the surrounding paint is in good shape.

As for PC usage/pads/speeds with Meg's products; refer to this chart that Mike Phillips put together...



That help?


RP

 

Yesss, that's much better. The scratches are scattered on the outside of all sides of the bed (exterior), including the tailgate. What do you mean by 'localized'? Maybe like, ten, total scratches.

I'm not familar with Meg's pad codes, but is the W8006 the polishing pad? or cutting pad?

Once before I used ScratchX by machine and did NOT like the removal of it! It was really hard to remove. I don't know, maybe you could give me the basics on apply it by hand, instead.

Thaaanks.

 

I have been of this forum for only a short time and have learned quite a bit about detailing my truck. I would like to thank all who contribute to the forum, especially RP. I never knew how involved this was until I read all the info here. Now I am addicted to making my truck look great all the time. Too bad I live in Oregon where it rains so much and makes it look dirty right away.

I plan on buying the PC from ADS in a couple weeks along with a few products. I talked to Rick and he was easy to talk to and had a lot of information. The BOSS (wife) is being supportive of this purchase since I will be keeping her car looking like new. I will "practice" on my daughters black Civic first since it has a bunch of small scratches and swirls. I plan on using #83, #80, and NXT wax on my daughters car.

Thanks again, Kevin

 

Pick your poison. Whichever works better for you. Try it both ways...



8006 is polishing -- yellow
9006 is finishing -- tan
7006 is cutting -- maroon (red)(I don't recommend this one with the PC)

Foam or cotton terry pad (with scratch-X, I like terry because it has a little more cut to it). Work the product over a small area (maybe 2' x 2') until it is almost dry (never work any product until dry). As I recall, Scratch-X will start to get gummy as it dries. Before it's totally dry, remove it. You do not need to let this product dry to the paint.

Remember, thin coats. Dont' glob it on. Don't progress to the next section until you finish the first.

RP