Bed rails are hidden by the undercover now, the only thing left are the mirrors & bumper steps. I think I'll be using a dab of soft scrub on a damp rag with little pressure. I haven't tried this method yet, but it'll be what I do next... in a small out of the way area...

 

Long, long, LONG overdue -

TA-DA!

 

KICK ****!!!

Awesome mod dz!!!!!!


How's the paint holding up?

 

Very nice!!! They should come that way!! Listening Ford?,,,,98

 

No kidding, I'm glad you posted pics before I became too senile to remember what this thread was about...

Looks good, D. Much better than stock.

~John

 

You may have added a 'mod' to my list...

While my truck is black and the handles are black... I'd much rather have glossy black handles.

GREAT JOB!!!

 

After many washes and freezing temps they look like the day I did them. Many hi-pressure washes too! The sucky part is only the passenger side is done... weather went cold & rainy and my schedule never left me time to get the drivers side done before winter came in... So the drivers side is waiting until spring...

Overall, I'm very happy with them. Can't wait to get the last two done...

 

Thanks for the compliments guys... the project really isn't that hard to do... I'd say the worse of it is 1. Getting that stupid pin out of the handle (although after I learned to heat it up with my torch lighter it comes out much easier) and 2. Sanding the $%*(@ buckets smooth is time consuming...

Like any paint job, it's all in the prep work!!!

EDIT: Rock, I think painted black buckets w/ billet handles would be ultra-hot on that KR... just a thought.

 

Thanks for the posting the pics... They look great.

 

Did a search on MSN, and came up with this: Back to Black Trim Restorer from Mothers, and Black Again from American Oil Company.

As for the tree sap, go to an auto paint store or a sherwin williams and get some wax and grease remover. Body shops use it to remove wax and grease and tree sap from body panels prior to painting. I have used it to get wax off of the textured trim as well. You will end up doing the whole vehicle, and then waxing it. You want to pour it on a rag, then wipe the panel, then use a clean rag to wipe it off. This stuff is a solvent, but it wont hurt the paint or the trim. Just dont let it dry. When you wipe it off it will leave a film, but just wash and wax as normal.

 

I have never tested the theory, but I truly believe that Back To Black is actually Mop n Glo floor wax. It looks the same, smells the same, and does pretty much the same thing. The only difference is a couple of bucks for a large bottle of MnG, and five bucks for a small bottle of B2B. It also washes off in the first rainstorm, as does MnG when you put water on it.,,,,98

 

98Screamer,
I am assuming that you are talking about using the MNG for the door handles. I have never used the products that I found on the search.
I have however used the wax and grease remover with great results. I have stripped the truck with the wax and grease remover and then cleaned the paint with a clay bar from Mothers, and the waxed with Macguiers (sp) and had a show room shine that lasted.

 

Digging this one back up....

I'd like to do all of my handles (tailgate and side) this long weekend....


So, let me recap what I'm reading as the procedure.

1. Remove all handles using procedures described in this thread. I'll probably pull the tailgate off so that I can shut my garage and also roll all the windows down so that I'll be able to get inside the truck from the exterior with handles off.

2. Sand. This is the most important step. 300 grit. 600 grit. 1000 grit. 2000 grit. Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth Smoooooth...

3. Clean to remove all remaining dust and oils. Not sure what to use here? Help.

4. Shoot paint. Thin, Even, Smooth coats. Don't overshoot paint because of runs. Several coats. How many did you all use on yours? Dry time will vary. I will dry them in a vented interior bathroom to avoid humidity and keep them cool.

5. Clear. Again, thin, smooth, even coats. Multiple coats. How many? (do I need to wetsand w/ 2000 prior to clear? If so, what can be used to remove sand marks? (sidethought: it doesn't really make sense to me to sand here but, I know it was mentioned somewhere in this area and I'm shooting from the hip). Help.

6. Wetsand here? More clear? Lay hands on it and pray?

7. Reinstall. No wax for about a month. Pray more.


Okay guys, I need advice beyond what I've mentioned above. There are holes in my procedure and I'd SINCERELY appreciate it if someone can help me fill those voids.

Thanks folks! I look forward to your help.

RP

 

One more question that I thought of...

How do you paint the backsides of the door handles or the underside of the tailgate handle?

RP

 

1. Don't remove your tailgate, it's not nessesary. Just open it from the inside. You'll see once you get it apart.

2. Prep & sanding is everything. It will take you hours to sand them. Yes, hours. The buckets are a pita.

3. After the sanding I rinsed them in water and used a rag to wipe them down under running water. Air dry. There is no need to use alcohol or any other cleaning agents since you've basically scrubbed the whole friggen' surface off during the sanding
phase.

4. Think I did three light coats of paint.

5. I'm a little foggy on the rest of this, but I do know this was my bible for the job:
http://www.paintscratch.com/spraycan.htm

You'd better take Friday off if you want them done by Monday night!

My advice: Pay the 200-300 for the LT handles. Seriously.

Oh, underneath the handles... well there are two meathods. Some folks didn't even bother and just shot the paint (still looked pretty good). Like an idiot I disassembled the whole thing. Major pita. Once you have the buckets off the door, you'll notice the handle is secured to the bucket via a single pin and a spring. The spring pops off easy, but the pin is flared or larger on the end, thus making it impossible to yank through the hole. After struggling for awhile I finally busted out my torch lighter and super heated the pin and the plastic around it (without melting the plastic) and then pulled really hard and it did slip through with lotsa heat. It sucked. Repeat for install. The tailgate I did not take apart since the design of the handle really didn't require it.

May the shwartz be with you Rock...