When using #9 for removing swirls with a PC how should you work it, and is it necessary to use polish on a new vehicle?

Did this today:
washed: NXT Wash
Clayed: Mothers
Used #9 and followed up with NXT

Did not think I needed to use polish on a new truck, could be wrong, I still have some swirls.

So is a swirl free finish virtually impossible on a black truck?

Anyone know what else to use?

 

Swirl-free is FAR from impossible. What you're ultimately cleaning up is a poor dealer-prep. You see, when the stealerships get these vehicles in, they take them to they're 'prep guy' that pulls the protective plastic off and typically hits them with an orbital and some polish of some sort. This step, 9 times out of 10, is where the initial swirls will occur as the bonehead handling the rotary has no clue about how to use it and make it work in it's intended manner.

Your procedure is a good start however, you might have swirls that require a more agressive product like Meguiar's #83 or similar. That or you can try knocking the swirls out with multiple #9 applications. Either way, you still have some work ahead to really make them go away.

Also, you should know that it is VERY NECESSARY to work either product that I've mentioned above until it is just BARELY wet. In short, you can't smack it on and walk away, allowing it to air dry on its own (like wax). You must utilize the PC on a much longer stroke and over the same area multiples of times in order to make the product work as intended. Then, and only then, will you see the full power of a PC and a great product like #9 or #83.

Trust me, your black finish **CAN** look perfect!

--RP--

 

RockPick,

When you get the chance, can you explain the process with the PC in more detail...particularly for polishing to remove swirls? The 1st time I tried #9 with my PC, I applied too much. I tried again last week, and really felt like maybe I worked the polish for too long. I'm hesitant to keep trying without some guidance for fear of creating more problems for my paint.
-What PC speed setting should be used for polishing?
-How big an area do you work at one time?
-How quickly should the pad be moved across the surface?

Any feedback/advice that you can offer would be very much appreciated. My truck is only 6 months old, and the paint is in good shape...there are a few swirls and minor scratches I'd like to deal with better.

Thanks much!

 

So should I put another coat of #9 on her or should I use something other than Meg's products, they are not bad but just gets next to me

I hate them

 

First and foremost, I'm not an expert with a machine around the paint but, I'll give you my best opinion and a little touch of some past experience that has worked great for me...

The PC is a wonderful and generally safe tool for applying most polishes and nearly every type of wax on the market. Since purchasing a PC, I've noticed that I've been able to bring my finish to another level and, with minimal effort.

Generally speaking, when I'm utilizing a product like Meguiar's #9, I find it best to keep the speed up around 4. With a higher speed like this, you're able to generate a small amount of heat and are able to actively reduce the diminshing abrasives found in nearly all Meguiar's polishes and compounds. This is a critical step as the abrasives need to break down to nearly nothing in order for the product to work properly.

Now, you might be wondering, "what in the heck are diminishing abrasives...?". Simply put, they are small, yet effective, abrasives that are in the products that start as one size and, after aggitation with a PC, by hand, or other mechanical means, break down to nearly nothing. Think of one of these abrasives as a snowball. When you apply heat to it, it slowly starts to break down until it's nothing. (not to imply that heat causes the abrasive to break down..... it's mechanical friction). Same concept. This is why it is important to work this product until it is just barely wet and almost totally dry or dusty. When the product has reached this physical state, it's effectiveness is at the end of it's life cycle.

As far as area to work with, I've found that the smaller the area you choose, the better. For example, I only do an area about half the size of my hood at a time. I'll work the PC in an up and down, and then a left to right motion until the product just as a very slight wet cut. Immediately after the product is nearly dry, I'll go over it with a microfiber towel to remove the product. It is not critical to allow a product like this to dry on the surface because it's not adding any additional properties to the paint (that's what the waxxing/protecting step is for). Heck, when we were utilizing Diamond Cut (#85) at Meguiar's, we were wiping it off WELL before it was dry. The thought here is that it's easier to remove and when it's not as dry, you run less risk of re-causing swirls when removing it.

I'm not sure how to answer your third question but, I'll take a stab at it. My opinion is that it should move slowly across the surface allowing the product to do its work. Simply squirting the product on a pad and zipping up and down, left and right won't yield the results that any one would want. Again though, you do need to keep it moving because you can start to build some heat which can adversely effect your paint (although, with a PC, it's nearly impossible for the most part). Going from the front of my hood all the way up to the cowl (nearest the windshield) on my 'up and down' motion might take me about 10 seconds or more.

I might also say that I wouldn't use the products in areas which you don't feel need it. Applying a product to just be applying a product can probably cause more problems than it'll fix.

I hope that helps a little bit and I'm sure some other folks will chime in with some excellent suggestions and help as well.

GOOD LUCK!

RP

 

You might read my post immediately before this and it might offer a little help.

Further, your swirls might be deeper than what I'm giving them credit for... in short, the dealership might have really zapped your paint during the prep. Meguiar's offers a polish that CAN deal with your problem but, without standing over the top of it and saying 'here's what I'd use', it's hard to prescribe a definite course of action.

I have a hunch that using the #9 correctly a few times will probably deal with what you have but, there are certainly other great products out there on the market....

RP

 

RockPick,

Thanks! Your answer was thorough and helpful, as usual. Your consultation fee will be mailed shortly.

I'll give it another go with the PC in a few weeks. I just need to take care of a few areas on the hood and some fine scratches along the side.

I did use NXT for the first time recently. The Wednesday before last, I clayed, polished, and applied 1 coat of NXT. On Thursday I added another coat of NXT. Then on Friday I applied #26, followed by Final Detail. Since them I've added 2 more coats of #26. I've also been using Poorboy's Spray & Wipe (based on recommendations from you and Boss_429 ) as needed.

I must say, I couldn't be more pleased with the finish appearance of my truck. It looks great...except the "orange peel" is much more noticeable because the surface otherwise looks so darn sharp. I'm really impressed with the combination of NXT and #26 on my black truck.

Now, if I could just keep the pollen off...

Have a good weekend,
John