Got a bunch of stuff please help me use it.
Got a bunch of stuff please help me use it.
Ok I got a bunch a loot for my truck. I got a portercable DA buffer with meguires yellow foam pads and some 3m dimpled grey pads. I purchase some Meguires #9 and some Auto Glym Radiant Wax. I already have a clay bar.
Questions.
What pads shouls I use for each product?
How many passes should I make with the #9?
How many coats of Auto Glym?
Keep in mind I want My 150 5 miles deep!
BTW The paint is in good condition, I clay every 6 mo or so and use a quick wax on it every 3 or so.
Thanks
Frank
Questions.
What pads shouls I use for each product?
How many passes should I make with the #9?
How many coats of Auto Glym?
Keep in mind I want My 150 5 miles deep!
BTW The paint is in good condition, I clay every 6 mo or so and use a quick wax on it every 3 or so.
Thanks
Frank
Thanks RP
Can't wait for Someone to chime in Why didn't you get zaino?
Because I enjoy going to the local detail supply. Its fu watching how excited they get when you start asking about the ultimate gloss. LOL
Frank
Can't wait for Someone to chime in Why didn't you get zaino?
Because I enjoy going to the local detail supply. Its fu watching how excited they get when you start asking about the ultimate gloss. LOL
Frank
poolvibe,
Some of the best, most detailed instructions I have found for the PorterCable 7424 can be found at properautocare.com.
http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
In case the link above doesn't work then
1. just go to www.properautocare.com
2. then click on the "Buffers and Polishers" link from the menu on the left
3. Click on the "Dual-Action Porter Cable Polisher & Accessories" link in the middle of the page
4. Go to the very bottom of the page and there will be 6 links on how to use the 7424 for different situations.
Another source that is not as detailed but has a good video about how to use a 7424 is Meguiar's homepage.
On a side note, the thing is unbelievably safe and easy to use. Since it only vibrates in an off balance circle and doesn't actually spin it doesn't build up much heat (almost not enough for some products to really work the way they were designed). But since it doesn't build up heat, there is almost no way to really mess up your paint. The best thing to me is that I can spread a really thin, even coat of wax very quickly with less product than when I used to do it by hand.
chknbone
Some of the best, most detailed instructions I have found for the PorterCable 7424 can be found at properautocare.com.
http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
In case the link above doesn't work then
1. just go to www.properautocare.com
2. then click on the "Buffers and Polishers" link from the menu on the left
3. Click on the "Dual-Action Porter Cable Polisher & Accessories" link in the middle of the page
4. Go to the very bottom of the page and there will be 6 links on how to use the 7424 for different situations.
Another source that is not as detailed but has a good video about how to use a 7424 is Meguiar's homepage.
On a side note, the thing is unbelievably safe and easy to use. Since it only vibrates in an off balance circle and doesn't actually spin it doesn't build up much heat (almost not enough for some products to really work the way they were designed). But since it doesn't build up heat, there is almost no way to really mess up your paint. The best thing to me is that I can spread a really thin, even coat of wax very quickly with less product than when I used to do it by hand.
chknbone
poolvibe,
I'm not familar with the dimpled grey pads from 3M. What size are they? (6 1/2", 7 1/2") Also, what texture are they (fine, medium, or coarse). I'm not sure that the dimpled pads are best pads to use on a DA buffer like the PC.
Do your wash........ clay first.
Then, I would use the yellow Meguiar's pad with the #9 to remove the swirls and polish. If you had the Meguiar's tan finishing pad, I would take another pass with the #9 and the tan finishing pad (the 3M grey pad may work if it's of the right texture, but I doubt it with those dimples).
Then, I would apply 2 light coats (by hand) of the Autoglym wax, with minimum of 24 hours between coats.
NOTE: If you really want a glossy/wet/deep look, I would get some Meguiar's #81 Pro Hand Polish, or Meguiar's #7, and apply it after the #9 (by hand), and before the Autoglym.
I'm not familar with the dimpled grey pads from 3M. What size are they? (6 1/2", 7 1/2") Also, what texture are they (fine, medium, or coarse). I'm not sure that the dimpled pads are best pads to use on a DA buffer like the PC.
Do your wash........ clay first.
Then, I would use the yellow Meguiar's pad with the #9 to remove the swirls and polish. If you had the Meguiar's tan finishing pad, I would take another pass with the #9 and the tan finishing pad (the 3M grey pad may work if it's of the right texture, but I doubt it with those dimples).
Then, I would apply 2 light coats (by hand) of the Autoglym wax, with minimum of 24 hours between coats.
NOTE: If you really want a glossy/wet/deep look, I would get some Meguiar's #81 Pro Hand Polish, or Meguiar's #7, and apply it after the #9 (by hand), and before the Autoglym.
chknbone,
man what a plethora of info. Question though, they say to use a white pad for polishing and a yellow pad for compounding. Wouldn't #9 be a polish or is it all that critical? Also here is a link to the grey pads I have.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/de/e...er/output_html
I'm sure you are already familiar with the meg yellow polishing pads.
Thanks a lot for the direction.
poolvibe
man what a plethora of info. Question though, they say to use a white pad for polishing and a yellow pad for compounding. Wouldn't #9 be a polish or is it all that critical? Also here is a link to the grey pads I have.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/de/e...er/output_html
I'm sure you are already familiar with the meg yellow polishing pads.
Thanks a lot for the direction.
poolvibe
Poolvibe,
I don't really know about 3M's grey pad. I would call them and ask where it fits into their lineup. Usually there's a compounding pad, a polishing pad and a finishing pad.
I use #9 with a white pad from properautocare.com (their middle pad) because I consider #9 a polish (with fillers and oils). Keep in mind that the term "polish" seems to have no standard definition in the detailing product world. Some feel that for a product to be a "true" polish it must contain no fillers or oils and must physically grind the top layer into into a smooth, shiney layer. Other companies use fillers and oils with a little bit of grinding agent to achieve a final smooth layer.
A good way to tell if you are actually removing swirls marks or just hiding them is to wipe down the area you just polished with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol. If the swirls return then you are using something that has oils and fillers in it. When I first found that out, I felt like I had been lied to, using some product that wasn't really doing what it advertised. After thinking about it though, I thought what's really wrong here? I only have to use the product 2 times a year, the truck looks great, I'm not really removing any of my clear coat (maybe just a tiny bit, MAYBE) and it follows the "make smooth and shiny by rubbing or chemical action" definition of "polish" . It's win/win to me.
Now I'm sure that with enough time, patience and the right pad that you could actually grind the clear coat down to a single, fine, smooth layer with Meg's #9 and the Porter Cable, but why? The product does a great job using it as it's designed. And like RP always says, "Find something YOU like, and use it."
chknbone
I don't really know about 3M's grey pad. I would call them and ask where it fits into their lineup. Usually there's a compounding pad, a polishing pad and a finishing pad.
I use #9 with a white pad from properautocare.com (their middle pad) because I consider #9 a polish (with fillers and oils). Keep in mind that the term "polish" seems to have no standard definition in the detailing product world. Some feel that for a product to be a "true" polish it must contain no fillers or oils and must physically grind the top layer into into a smooth, shiney layer. Other companies use fillers and oils with a little bit of grinding agent to achieve a final smooth layer.
A good way to tell if you are actually removing swirls marks or just hiding them is to wipe down the area you just polished with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol. If the swirls return then you are using something that has oils and fillers in it. When I first found that out, I felt like I had been lied to, using some product that wasn't really doing what it advertised. After thinking about it though, I thought what's really wrong here? I only have to use the product 2 times a year, the truck looks great, I'm not really removing any of my clear coat (maybe just a tiny bit, MAYBE) and it follows the "make smooth and shiny by rubbing or chemical action" definition of "polish" . It's win/win to me.
Now I'm sure that with enough time, patience and the right pad that you could actually grind the clear coat down to a single, fine, smooth layer with Meg's #9 and the Porter Cable, but why? The product does a great job using it as it's designed. And like RP always says, "Find something YOU like, and use it."
chknbone
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Originally posted by chknbone
...And like RP always says, "Find something YOU like, and use it."
...And like RP always says, "Find something YOU like, and use it."
Yeah, I agree, For the most part if you use a higher end proven product like Meg, Autoglym, Adams, Poorboys, Production, You know if you put the effort in the results will be great. it seems to me more emphasis needs to be put on the procedure and not the product. Following directions is very important. Thats why I always ask around here before I start slingng new products all over my truck. Very cool board here...
Poolvibe
Poolvibe


