Bedliners, Caps, Tops & Lids
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

American Roll Cover Price

Old Jan 18, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #16  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Truckgasm that would be great. Thanks, Mark
 
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #17  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
As of right now, it looks like the install will be next Saturday.
 
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #18  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Great, mine is getting delivered tomorrow, but I'm not even sure when I will get around to instlling it, so the pics would be great. Thanks
 
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #19  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
OK, here's some pics for you!

The truck is an F-250. You need to drill below the bottom of the stake pocket. The reason is because if you drill into the stake pocket, you will be drilling into two layers of metal and the grommet does not fit well if there are two layers of metal. So, find the bottom of the stake pocket and make sure the hole you drill is totally below it.











Unrelated, but I thought I would mention it. Make sure the lock is engaging the lock block. If it's not like this or close to this, your rails are too far apart.
 

Last edited by TruckGasm; Jan 24, 2011 at 10:12 AM.
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #20  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Thanks Truckgasm, Are there 2 drains in the front also. I guess if Im not worried about water under the cover, I could just not even install the drain tubes, and the water will just drain out under the tailgate. I'm mainly installing the cover for security purposes. Just in case I do drill, what do you use as a rust inhibitor after you drill the holes? Thanks again for all your help. Mark
 
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #21  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
We just use some Krylon. The Krylon along with grommet will do the job.
 
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #22  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Ok thanks again r there drains from the canister too.
 
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 11:30 AM
  #23  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Yes
 
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #24  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Just a quick question, I installed my cover yesterday, but no matter what I tried the rails seem like they want to angle up from the bed toward the rails. I tried moving the shoims around, but nothing worked. Also it says to shim the rails to be a 1/8 inch bigger than the covers lip, but there isnt enough shims with the kit to do that also I measued the space between the rails by the canister and it is alot wider there too. Are the rails supposed to be the same width apart the whole way back, or do they get closer together as they get closer to the tailgate. When I drive I noticed the cover opened up like 6 inches a few times also. Any input would be great. Thanks, Mark
 
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #25  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Sometimes that happens, flat to a little angle is normal. The truck's rails are not parallel.

To minimize the angle, loosen the clamps, have another person push down HARD, then you tighten the clamps while the other guy is pushing.

What's important is the side to side movement when the cover is closed. You should only have about 1/16" play, that's it.

The cover is about to get even more expensive. April 1, the price to dealers goes up.
 

Last edited by TruckGasm; Feb 14, 2011 at 07:52 PM.
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #26  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
The only thing is to make it tighter I woul need more shims. They only gave me 4 thick ones and like 8 or 10 thin ones. To use anymore in the back wouldn't leave me enough for the middle and front. Unless I maybe use the 2 that came in the bag for 2009 and newer trucks. I guess that the reason it keeps opening a little when I drive is there is too much play left to right. Do you ever have to use that extra piece of foam they give you on the 04-08's. The thick piece that came on the canister seemed like more than enough.
 
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Call TCUSA if you need more shims, they will most likely send more at no charge. Use the seal only if you think you need it.
 
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #28  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Yeah I called them yesterday and they are sending them. Im just surprised they don't send you more to begin with. They say they send the amount depending on the truck. But obviously that isn't a perfect system. But like I said they are sending them, so all will be fine. How far over the tailgate do you usually pull the side rails. It says it can be 3/8 or less. I only went like 1/8. Just wondering if I should pull them out a little more since I have to lossen the clamps anyway.
 
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #29  
TruckGasm's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 1
From: Texas
The rails need to be pushed all the way into the canister!! It's only the cover curtain that gets adjusted.

When you're ready to set the lock block which is at the end of the installation, get in the truck bed with a flashlight and close the tailgate. Another person (on the outside) pulls the curtain all the way against the tailgate while you set the lock block.

Positioning the rail by this method is very important. The guy on the left is pulling the rail toward himself and pushing down.


This one fits pretty flat, but they don't always fit this flat.
 

Last edited by TruckGasm; Feb 16, 2011 at 03:56 PM.
Reply
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:36 AM
  #30  
kitchenboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
I just reread my directions, to be sure, and in the Fitting the Side Rails part B it says the side rails can be moved back and forth as long as the drain channel remains in the canister. If I pushed my side rails tight against the canister they wouldnt even make it to the edge of my tailgate. Thats why I pulled them out a little bit. Thats whats confusing to me. In the adjusting the Locking position step D it says to draw out the curtain until the end slat is level with the side rails. Then it says make sure the curtain is snug up against the tailgate, and next to it it says side rails and curtain should line up as close to possible. Right now I have the side rails pulled out of the canister a little just to get them to come over the tailgate a little bit, but when the curtain is closed I have it locking about an 1/8 inch past the side rails. But if my tailgate is closed and I pull the curtain tight against the tailgate it sticks past the side rails like 1/2 an inch. I see in your last pic it looks like the curtain and the side rail is pretty even. And you say your rails are pushed all the way against the canister and the curtain is pulled tight against the tailgate. If so I may have to call TCU and see what my problem is.
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:07 PM.