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Installation Guide: Water/Trans Temp Gauges in Pillar Pod, '99 F-150

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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 11:50 PM
  #16  
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From: Molino, FL / Camp Frontenac (Shah Wali Kowt), Afghanistan
That looks like a mod I'd be interested in...that is a great look you ended up with.

I have a 2011 but with a black interior I would hope that the supplied pillar piece would match...I wonder how much someone would charge me to do it if I got the kit?

Sucks being over here...can't do much till I get back.

Dennis

112 dtg Dubai
113 dtg Home for good!
 

Last edited by molinoman; Mar 8, 2011 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 12:36 AM
  #17  
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Thanks for all the kind comments ...

MGDfan, thanks for the explanation ... I was just going to reply " ... 'cause MGDfan said to ..."
I figured I need 4-5 diodes: looked on ebay, got impatient, went to the closest Radio Shack and got 6, went back got 2 more (all they had left), went to the Radio Shack 20 miles away and got 4 (all they had), finally got the lights dim enough

Z7, thanks for your input. I was aware of the ports and was really tempted by the inexpensive, simple, and clean install these ports offer. After reading a bunch of threads on the topic, I decided the locations I chose will give me the information I'm looking for.

Originally, the trans gauge was my main interest, I only added the water gauge because I couldn't find a single pod full pillar mount. This is the first 4X4 I've owned w/ an auto trans, and I was getting concerned about temps when crawling up long, steep trails in the desert mountains. I'm now really glad I added the water gauge after seeing how worthless the factory gauge is.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 12:43 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Nope. Elegance. Plus, I'm too lazy to measure the current draw and calculate resistor value and power rating

Silicon diode forward drop is a guaranteed 0.7v per junction. No muss - no fuss, nice & cool, lol.

I buy these in lots of 100 - had I known Mr. Fairlaner needed that many, I would have mailed him an envelope full, gratis.

Resistors are so ..... 1980's

MGD
Ah, I see. I can understand how that's a nice little shortcut. The only problem with that...it looks like the illumination on the needles is out for some reason.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:41 AM
  #19  
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The needles don't glow as well as the factory gauges. I think that pic might have been w/ 12 diodes, where the needles were a little dimmer than I wanted (you could see them better than the pic shows, but they certainly didn't jump out at you). I went w/ 11, which has the needles looking more like the factory gauges, and the backlight a little brighter than the factory gauges.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:30 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by fairlaner
The needles don't glow as well as the factory gauges. I think that pic might have been w/ 12 diodes, where the needles were a little dimmer than I wanted (you could see them better than the pic shows, but they certainly didn't jump out at you). I went w/ 11, which has the needles looking more like the factory gauges, and the backlight a little brighter than the factory gauges.
That makes sense. I was thinking for a minute, "Man, he went a little heavy on the diodes!" Again, nice install and attention to detail. That's how I would like most of my installs to go, but unfortunately, my truck has the tendency to give me unforeseen circumstances! If you don't mind me asking, how much did everything run you? I was looking up prices last night for an install like this and my total was around $250 for all the parts. That sound about right?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #21  
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Awesome write up. Any idea how much $ it was total?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:41 AM
  #22  
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While the Autometer illumination is nice, it just doesn't work quite as well as the factory gauges. When you dim the factory lights, the needles are still visible. When you dim the Autometer lights (after adding the diodes, using the factory dash light dimmer), the needles also dim. It became a compromise between not wanting the Autometer gauges too bright (they're up more at eye level, which might become annoying during long night drives), and yet keeping them bright enough to keep the needles clearly visible.

I got about $450 in this mod (don't you dare tell momma ), but it can be done much cheaper. The pod is about $50. The full sweep electric gauges are pricey ($140 ea), but short sweep gauges are much cheaper. The sensor mounts are $35 for the water and $45 for the trans, but there are also cheaper options here (use the ports Z7What mentioned, or fabricate mounts using common fittings found at a hardware store).
 

Last edited by fairlaner; May 20, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #23  
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i use a scanguage that plugs into my obdII port and it gives me water temp, tranny temp, cylinder head temp, MPG, GPH, Speed, O2 open or closed loop and a ton of other info and it was only 150 bucks, plus it reads any fault codes that may get thrown. took 2 minutes to install.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #24  
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Nice work. It looks like it rolled off the assembly line with 'em!
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the write up. I did this mod a few weeks ago along with adding a transmission cooler. During normal driving conditions my water temp hangs out right at 200f, with the transmission once warmed up averaging about 130f (on a 50 degree day outside it takes about 20 miles to even budge off of the lowest reading). I have a 4100 pound travel trailer (empty weight), and when pulling it with OD off for about 100 miles (averaging 50-55mph and 2200-2500 RPMs) my water temp stayed normal at 200 and when on the open hwy my trans would heat up to 145. Once I would get into stop and go traffic it peaked at 195f but would drop down quickly once moving along and up to speed. Does any one have any similar temperatures they are running?
 
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