Alright guys, i'm stumped. got an '04 f150, new style, not the heritage. About a month ago, my pickup started to "govern" at about 35 mph with fluttering rpms. It then dropped to about 18 and began stalling. Threw a P0191 code, fuel pressure at rail not in desired range or whatever. Set my edge to show afrp and at idle would sit at about 40ish psi, normal. At driving speeds it would hold 40 until around 30 mph and then begin bouncing from 6 psi, to like 28 psi, to 8 psi to whatever, but when i let off it got back to 40. I found threads on the fpdm and checked mine, and to my surprise, living in SD, it looks fine. Put it back on and the problem seemed to remedy itself. Couple days ago, started acting up again, fluttering fuel pressure, governs at about 20 mph now, though. Haven't had any crank no starts, just a stall or two. Anyone have any ideas? FRPS, Fuel pump, FPDM? Any help is greatly appreciated as I am coming up short on this one.

 

Thanks to this thread and forum I was able to diagnosis and repair my truck in a timely manner.

 

Sounds like leaky injectors to me.

 

yer a little late.....

 

Thread bump.

But I had to replace mine today after hitting a large water puddle in the highway from a rainstorm. Took the truck out almost immediately. I was able to get it home and it ran in the driveway for 10 minutes until it died. I had a P0191 code thrown. Crawled up under the truck and the damn module literally about was disintegrated from corrosion. It fell apart as I took the bolts out.

This thread saved me some serious headache. Thanks !!

 

Wanted to throw a quick thanks to all that posted before....if you have not checked this on your truck and its got a few miles, especially the northern trucks....replace it! Mine was cracked and covered in salt/gunk/corroded mess....

It almost appears as if when it was installed it was "bent" over that crossmember when torqued down. The metal housing was cracked and the PCB was exposed, was only a matter of time. I replaced it with the Dorman and the truck runs just fine.

Thanks again everyone for detailing out this simple fix. It took me longer to lower the rear tire than it did to replace this!

 

My 2006 F150 died the other day, and I had it towed to a local garage. It started the next morning, then yesterday it wouldn't start after work, parked on the third floor of the garage at my office park. I was ready to pick up a fuel pump, and to drop the tank out of it this weekend when I stumbled across this thread. An hour later and it's running like a Swiss timepiece. The old driver module has a hole in the back, about 1 1/2" square, with the circuit board exposed behind it, and with corrosion evident on the board.

You saved me a few hundred bucks, and a lot of aggravation, so THANKS!

 

Let this thread live. I just replaced mine at a total of 68.00 thanks to Amazon, my girl would run but under a load would do a stutter step, pulled the code and replaced this part. It was cracked and bottom was almost completely gone. Easy replacement.

 

So glad for this thread. I live in SoCal and after a long drought it has basically been raining non-stop for 2 days. This morning the truck was idling really rough after I started it (was fine last yesterday night but I only drove it home while it was raining then). I was worried about making it the 1-2 mile drive to my carpool stop because of how the idle was fluctuating. Definitely felt like a fuel problem. Unfortunately I'm at work right now so I can't check it but it sounds like this is the most likely culprit. This'll be the first thing I look at when I'm back. I just hope I don't need someone to drive me home from the stop.

 

Okay, so... I'm having the same problem where I get rough idle when it is raining and it sometimes feels like I'm going to stall out completely when I come to a stop.

I live in SoCal and it's raining again and I'm having the same symptoms. Last weekend I pulled the FPDM and the corrosion looks really minor. I didn't take it all the way off but as far as I can tell it is just on the surface. Could the FPDM still be my problem? It's not that expensive but I don't want to just throw parts at it either?

 

I cannot locate the fuel pump driver module. I have a 1999 Ford 150 Lariat 2WD. I read somewhere that my year model did not have fpdm's and that I will need a fuel pump but then I read somewhere else that on the 1999, the fpdm is in a different location.

The symptoms I have sound like everyone else's symptoms.

Also, I thought I saw a report from Ford about this issue. Do you know if Ford recalled the 1999 Ford F150 for these fuel pump/fpdm issues?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You do NOT have one. 2004 + trucks only.

MGD

 

I've been on & off searching for the cause of a "bog" in response about one second after leaving from a dead stop, with similar instances after upshifts when in the same general RPM range. I'm running an Edge Evo CS, and noticed that the fuel pressure would sag, if it happened to refresh that reading when it was happening. So, seeing this mention, I decided to drop the spare today & see what I had on my '05 SuperCrew.

It's a good thing I did, here's a sequence of pics from old & new, got the Dorman unit for $104.90 (before a discount I had) and put it in:





Old factory original FPDM.





Doesn't look too bad from this vantage.





Still doesn't look too bad.





Whoops, now there's definitely a problem, the latch is broken & the base is cracked, just like the others posting here.





Yep, definitely cracked.





Well! Now that there is a PROBLEM.





Problem? No problem!

Took me all of nine minutes once I had the part, and that's including the time to bring the old one in & take the pictures.

Basic testing revealed the "bog" was gone, and the fuel pressure was sitting at 39 PSI the whole time. Good enough results that I filled the thing with premium gas (was near empty) and loaded the "Level 3" tune for the first time.

HIGHLY noticeable improvement!

No issues noted now, would recommend that everyone who still has a factory FPDM mounted flush to the crossbar or rail REPLACE that thing....

 

Dorman $57 on ebay. Power coated too!

 

Has anybody taped up or sealed those exposed wires?