Fuel Pump Driver Module Replacement
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2
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Fuel Pump Drive Module Fell Apart!
To add to this thread, my truck left me stranded 4 days ago on my way home from work. Truck just died with out any warning. Pulled over to the side of the road and she fired right up. I was able to drive it for a few hundred feet and she died again. This kept up until I called for a tow.
Once home I was able to keep it running long enough to get it in my garage. After cleaning the throttle body, MAF sensor and changing the fuel filter with no luck, I did some more research online and discovered topics on the fuel pump drive module. After taking my spare out I could see the aluminum housing was cracked. When I went to take the module off, the entire back fell apart in to two pieces. All of the NAPA, Ford and AutoZone's around me have them on 3-5 day special orders. I have not been able to replace it yet but sure hope this is the culprit. If not, it sure needed changed anyway.
My symptoms were typical of other threads I read where the truck will start and run for a minute or two and then die. I can start it up again and it will run for another minute or two and then die again.
Once home I was able to keep it running long enough to get it in my garage. After cleaning the throttle body, MAF sensor and changing the fuel filter with no luck, I did some more research online and discovered topics on the fuel pump drive module. After taking my spare out I could see the aluminum housing was cracked. When I went to take the module off, the entire back fell apart in to two pieces. All of the NAPA, Ford and AutoZone's around me have them on 3-5 day special orders. I have not been able to replace it yet but sure hope this is the culprit. If not, it sure needed changed anyway.
My symptoms were typical of other threads I read where the truck will start and run for a minute or two and then die. I can start it up again and it will run for another minute or two and then die again.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 45
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Been owning and driving F-100s and F-150s since the early '70s. Traded in my '02 Crew Cab 4WD for an '08 Crew Cab 4WD with intentions of driving it for about 4 years and then trading down. Haven't had any issues until this morning - wouldn't start - cranked but wouldn't fire.
Had the beast towed to the dealer, told me later in the afternoon that it was the fuel pump driver module - going to cost $450 to replace, and not covered by warranty (why would I buy an extended warranty for a vehicle that I planned on using for four years). Now I read that this module is accessible and costs $140 - I feel betrayed by FMC.
Had the beast towed to the dealer, told me later in the afternoon that it was the fuel pump driver module - going to cost $450 to replace, and not covered by warranty (why would I buy an extended warranty for a vehicle that I planned on using for four years). Now I read that this module is accessible and costs $140 - I feel betrayed by FMC.
Pages 10-11 Warranty Guide in my 2007 reads:
Extended warranty coverage periods are available for certain vehicle
parts and conditions. Specifically,
(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or
60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to
the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,
electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts, flywheel,
injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts, oil
pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing, timing
chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt), turbocharger/supercharger unit,
valve covers, water pump; Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover,
seals and gaskets, torque converter, transfer case (including all internal
parts), transmission case, transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive:
axle shafts, bearings (front and rear), center support bearing, drive
shafts, final drive housing (including all internal parts), hubs-automatic
front locking (four-wheel drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals
and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints; Rear-Wheel Drive:
axle shafts, bearings (front and rear), center support bearing, drive axle
housing (including all internal parts), drive shaft, propeller shafts, retainers,
supports, seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.
parts and conditions. Specifically,
(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or
60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to
the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,
electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts, flywheel,
injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts, oil
pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing, timing
chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt), turbocharger/supercharger unit,
valve covers, water pump; Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover,
seals and gaskets, torque converter, transfer case (including all internal
parts), transmission case, transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive:
axle shafts, bearings (front and rear), center support bearing, drive
shafts, final drive housing (including all internal parts), hubs-automatic
front locking (four-wheel drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals
and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints; Rear-Wheel Drive:
axle shafts, bearings (front and rear), center support bearing, drive axle
housing (including all internal parts), drive shaft, propeller shafts, retainers,
supports, seals and gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.
I fixed mine 12/31/10 as a preventative measure because fixing that problem before it was a problem (and catching that wire the squirrel chewed on in time) was far easier than looking for a tow truck or etc, mine had not failed so I had no warranty claim. Doubt I will now either.
Last edited by tbear853; Dec 20, 2011 at 02:34 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Replaced mine today. The dealer had 1 left in stock. They said that the standoff bolt kit is hard to get. I went to Lowes and got some 6mmx40mm bolts and some nylon spacers and made my own. The module was cracked and had a hole the size of a quarter. Glad I got it fixed now. Probably would not of made it through the winter.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville, CA
Hate to keep adding to this post...
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10,697
Likes: 14
From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Hate to keep adding to this post...
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26,080
Likes: 82
From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Hate to keep adding to this post...
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
Any symptoms that would indicate the unit is failing?
My gas gauge is starting to act up...not going to full after filling up (last tank took 30 minutes of driving for it to indicate full), dropping slowly while driving (after 150 miles still showing full, normally get 300 milles to a tank)...
I keep getting the misfire under load, with no codes...(been changing cops one at a time (changed 3 already).
Regards!
__________________
Jim
Jim
ill be ordering one soon. Just got the cops and fuel filter done today at work
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville, CA
40K on the plugs...they were changed at 80k along with passenger side head ,catalytic converter (fried valves) and # fuel injector.
I noticed that I had a fuel sending unit replaced at 50k. I replaed the fuel filter a few months ago...
I noticed that I had a fuel sending unit replaced at 50k. I replaed the fuel filter a few months ago...
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
TSB 08-2-9 was issued FEB-08 and there were new fuel sending units that could deal with the higher sulfur content fuel that was causing it in that TSB.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Free Bump!
Just want to say thanks, this thread saved me today.
Went to leave work and my truck started but ran rough, I got about 30 feet and she died, no restart.
Pulled up fuel pressure on the edge evo... 1 psi... thats no good...
I came very close to towing to the dealer but thought i would do some research first, and thank God I did I was able to pick up the FPDM from a local dealer and drive home with it bungee strapped to the crossmember
Ill put it together right and undercoat tomorrow.
THANKS GUYS!
Just want to say thanks, this thread saved me today.
Went to leave work and my truck started but ran rough, I got about 30 feet and she died, no restart.
Pulled up fuel pressure on the edge evo... 1 psi... thats no good...
I came very close to towing to the dealer but thought i would do some research first, and thank God I did I was able to pick up the FPDM from a local dealer and drive home with it bungee strapped to the crossmember
Ill put it together right and undercoat tomorrow.
THANKS GUYS!
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: punxsutawney pa
problems after changing module?
I changed the module and my truck now starts and runs, but it seems as though it is loaded up, it idles rough, it is missing lke crazy. I just had the plugs changed around 1000 miles ago. has anyone experienced anything like this? thanks in advance
I just wanted to throw out there, that DORMAN (590-001) makes a replacement which I purchased from Amazon.com for $56.75. Last week after a night of rain, my truck stalled out no less than 5 times on my way to work.
Truck runs better now and the DORMAN part includes mounting hardware and stand-off rubber bushings as well.
I have attached a link for pics I took of the old part and new.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...er+module.html
Truck runs better now and the DORMAN part includes mounting hardware and stand-off rubber bushings as well.
I have attached a link for pics I took of the old part and new.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...er+module.html
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Fuel Pump Module
I am looking to buy a new fuel pump module for my F150 and there are 2 options. One is the Motorcraft brand which is Ford brand and is 1/2 the price of the other brand which is Dorman. Which one is a better buy? I dont want to spend more money on it if it doesn't last as long. I can buy 2 for the price of 1. Any help or specs or personal experiences would be great thanks!
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 29
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I think you have that backwards the dorman is probably half the price of Motorcraft. Dorman is a well-respected product and may even make the Motorcraft part, if it was cheaper I would buy motorcraft, But wouldn't hesitate to use either.