'99 F-150 Headlight Switch Mod
Mine is a 99 too and I had to grind off the plastic ramp inside the switch in order for the finger thingy to go where I wanted it, The only other option you really have is to eliminate the finger but then there would be nothing holding the switch in the correct position and it would be all wobbly and not feel like it was stock.
1. Without Keyless entry (Flashing parking lights):
Jump the brown wire (big grey plug behind headlight switch bottom left corner) with the white/black stripe (little grey plug behind headlight switch on far right) together then take a dremel and re-shape the ramp inside the headlight switch. DONE!!
Could someone confirm the above wiring instrustions are correct? Other posts I've seen stated the #2 and #12 wires on the large 12 position connector should be spliced together, which I've done, and now my headlights are on when the switch is in in the park position. Mod works as specified otherwise (i.e. fogs on with highbeams).
Jump the brown wire (big grey plug behind headlight switch bottom left corner) with the white/black stripe (little grey plug behind headlight switch on far right) together then take a dremel and re-shape the ramp inside the headlight switch. DONE!!
Could someone confirm the above wiring instrustions are correct? Other posts I've seen stated the #2 and #12 wires on the large 12 position connector should be spliced together, which I've done, and now my headlights are on when the switch is in in the park position. Mod works as specified otherwise (i.e. fogs on with highbeams).
I don't remember what the #s are, but it's the white/black you splice to the brown.
Sounds like you got the wrong wires spliced.
I did mine exacty like this and I can turn on and off my fogs any time the parking lights are on which is what I wanted.
Read the Lightning page and follow the directions there for a 2000-2003 switch. That's all there is to it, trim the ramp and splice the wires.
(to the earlier posters in this thread)
The reason I don't like to use electrical tape on automotive wiring is that it dries out and releases or separates, leaving a sticky mess of bare wires. I've redone a lot of sloppy wiring and the most secure way is solder covered with heat shrink tubing, next is crimp connections with the plastic covers. For some things I even solder a crimp connector.
And I dislike the quick splice connectors that squeeze together because they tend to break wires. How they work is to literally cut into both wires to be joined, leaving only part of the wire connected through the slit in the blade of the connector. If there is ever any wiggle or vibration, the wire strength is severely compromised and it will break right at the blade you squeezed through the wires. Then you have to go back and fix it correctly.
Do it right the first time and you won't have that problem.
Sounds like you got the wrong wires spliced.
I did mine exacty like this and I can turn on and off my fogs any time the parking lights are on which is what I wanted.
Read the Lightning page and follow the directions there for a 2000-2003 switch. That's all there is to it, trim the ramp and splice the wires.
(to the earlier posters in this thread)
The reason I don't like to use electrical tape on automotive wiring is that it dries out and releases or separates, leaving a sticky mess of bare wires. I've redone a lot of sloppy wiring and the most secure way is solder covered with heat shrink tubing, next is crimp connections with the plastic covers. For some things I even solder a crimp connector.
And I dislike the quick splice connectors that squeeze together because they tend to break wires. How they work is to literally cut into both wires to be joined, leaving only part of the wire connected through the slit in the blade of the connector. If there is ever any wiggle or vibration, the wire strength is severely compromised and it will break right at the blade you squeezed through the wires. Then you have to go back and fix it correctly.
Do it right the first time and you won't have that problem.
Last edited by Sam I Am; Nov 13, 2010 at 10:00 AM.
Thanks for the reply. I figured it out this weekend. I had it wired correctly wht/blk to the brown. Problem was that I had upgrade my headlight and foglight wiring, powered directly from the battery through new relays, and I must say what a huge improvement in brightness. In doing so I eliminated most of the current draw throught he stock wiring. when you do this mod with stock wiring it blows fuse #27, foglight fuse, and all works as stated. In my case there wasn't enough current to blow the fuse. Once i removed the unblown fuse all is working as it should now.
Hey guys, didi this mod about 5 mths ago, ok now please tell me if I did something wrong, ok so my fog lights quit working on DRL beams and park, they would just work with low beams on, so I took the swicth back out of the dash to see if my jumper wire broke or something, but to my surprise on of the little quick snap connector I used for the jumper from the brown wire to th white/black had melted into a solid piece........so I did a test, took the jumper wire off and everything worked like OEM, then tried touching the jumper wire and the fogs came on in park, low and high beams, so this time I soldered the jumper thinking maybe it was loos in the connector causing the exess heat.......but NO, the jumper wire got extremely hot when I turned the OEM fogs on, so that explained why the connector melted in the first place.....why is this so??? Did I do something wrong??? Anybody else notice this to??? BTW I have a 98 XL
Just run a wire from one of the white/black wires (doesn't matter which one) to the brown wire.
My results were odd
I completed this mod in every detail including filing the ramp and splicing the brown wire to the white/black wires, the problem I'm having is that when the wires are spliced when I turn my parking lights on the headlights come on as well, needless to say I have left it stock until I can figure this out. Please help me on figuring out how this could be occurring



