Everything You Want to Know About the Blue Clips! Changing Fuel Filter
From Fuel filter replaced (No broken blue clip) Pics included as Stealth pointed out ( I have read this thread, btw, just thought I'd try to one-up it
).
The first picture shows the steel snap fittings on the intake [rear of truck] end. Mine is not like this, but still good picture of how to remove the fitting if you are not familiar.
Also, someone posted a scan of the diagram in the Haynes manual. I briefly tried to find it, but didn't. I might get motivated to go and scan it myself. If you have they Haynes manual [which is always a good idea for any vehicle you own] there is a pretty good diagram in it for the blue clips.
Also, someone posted a scan of the diagram in the Haynes manual. I briefly tried to find it, but didn't. I might get motivated to go and scan it myself. If you have they Haynes manual [which is always a good idea for any vehicle you own] there is a pretty good diagram in it for the blue clips.
Last edited by Rockpick; May 15, 2009 at 09:21 AM.
Just wanted to say thanks to BlueScrew150. I changed my fuel filter today and his writeup on the blue clip was very helpful. This was one of the easiest fuel filter changes I've done since I started buying fuel injected cars.
That is wierd because I couldn't use the blue piece that slides in. It just wouldn't work for me. I just put the tool in and pushed and it came right off.
From Fuel filter replaced (No broken blue clip) Pics included as Stealth pointed out ( I have read this thread, btw, just thought I'd try to one-up it
).
The first picture shows the steel snap fittings on the intake [rear of truck] end. Mine is not like this, but still good picture of how to remove the fitting if you are not familiar.
Also, someone posted a scan of the diagram in the Haynes manual. I briefly tried to find it, but didn't. I might get motivated to go and scan it myself. If you have they Haynes manual [which is always a good idea for any vehicle you own] there is a pretty good diagram in it for the blue clips.
The first picture shows the steel snap fittings on the intake [rear of truck] end. Mine is not like this, but still good picture of how to remove the fitting if you are not familiar.
Also, someone posted a scan of the diagram in the Haynes manual. I briefly tried to find it, but didn't. I might get motivated to go and scan it myself. If you have they Haynes manual [which is always a good idea for any vehicle you own] there is a pretty good diagram in it for the blue clips.
Last edited by Rockpick; May 15, 2009 at 09:22 AM.
I am dealing with this now ... My advice ... don't. You entering a world of pain. That's right, I'll repeat that ... a world of pain. You will emerge from underneath your vehicle forever a changed person, traumatized, a withered husk, a shell of your former self. Don't be surprised if you family does not recognize you. Nightmares will haunt your sleep, while the memory of trying to use the fuel filter tool forever torments your waking hours. No pleasure will be found in things that formerly brought you joy.
Why, you ask? It is, simply, that the design of this connector has to be the most idiotic, the most insipid, the most golf-ball-eatingly stupid, overcomplicated design of a simple thing that has ever been. Ever. Up until now, such levels of stupidity were only possible in top-secret underground government-run laboratories deep below Area 51, inside sealed insulated chambers, surrounded by technicians wearing protective eyewear. But now, thanks to Ford's breakthrough IntelliVoid technology, you too can pay too much to take too long to get too angry over a simple maintenance task that should be too simple to mention.
Ok, I'm done venting now ... this kind of crap drives me absolutely bug*****.
I will say this though ... when this vehicle gets out of warranty, that goofy connector is coming off with a hacksaw, along with its evil cousins, the blue and red clamp klongdorker thing-a-hoochies, and getting replaced by fine, wholesome, honest, good ol' down-home, old-fashioned hose clamps and fuel line.
Why, you ask? It is, simply, that the design of this connector has to be the most idiotic, the most insipid, the most golf-ball-eatingly stupid, overcomplicated design of a simple thing that has ever been. Ever. Up until now, such levels of stupidity were only possible in top-secret underground government-run laboratories deep below Area 51, inside sealed insulated chambers, surrounded by technicians wearing protective eyewear. But now, thanks to Ford's breakthrough IntelliVoid technology, you too can pay too much to take too long to get too angry over a simple maintenance task that should be too simple to mention.
Ok, I'm done venting now ... this kind of crap drives me absolutely bug*****.
I will say this though ... when this vehicle gets out of warranty, that goofy connector is coming off with a hacksaw, along with its evil cousins, the blue and red clamp klongdorker thing-a-hoochies, and getting replaced by fine, wholesome, honest, good ol' down-home, old-fashioned hose clamps and fuel line.
I am dealing with this now ... My advice ... don't. You entering a world of pain. That's right, I'll repeat that ... a world of pain. You will emerge from underneath your vehicle forever a changed person, traumatized, a withered husk, a shell of your former self. Don't be surprised if you family does not recognize you. Nightmares will haunt your sleep, while the memory of trying to use the fuel filter tool forever torments your waking hours. No pleasure will be found in things that formerly brought you joy.
Why, you ask? It is, simply, that the design of this connector has to be the most idiotic, the most insipid, the most golf-ball-eatingly stupid, overcomplicated design of a simple thing that has ever been. Ever. Up until now, such levels of stupidity were only possible in top-secret underground government-run laboratories deep below Area 51, inside sealed insulated chambers, surrounded by technicians wearing protective eyewear. But now, thanks to Ford's breakthrough IntelliVoid technology, you too can pay too much to take too long to get too angry over a simple maintenance task that should be too simple to mention.
Ok, I'm done venting now ... this kind of crap drives me absolutely bug*****.
I will say this though ... when this vehicle gets out of warranty, that goofy connector is coming off with a hacksaw, along with its evil cousins, the blue and red clamp klongdorker thing-a-hoochies, and getting replaced by fine, wholesome, honest, good ol' down-home, old-fashioned hose clamps and fuel line.
Why, you ask? It is, simply, that the design of this connector has to be the most idiotic, the most insipid, the most golf-ball-eatingly stupid, overcomplicated design of a simple thing that has ever been. Ever. Up until now, such levels of stupidity were only possible in top-secret underground government-run laboratories deep below Area 51, inside sealed insulated chambers, surrounded by technicians wearing protective eyewear. But now, thanks to Ford's breakthrough IntelliVoid technology, you too can pay too much to take too long to get too angry over a simple maintenance task that should be too simple to mention.
Ok, I'm done venting now ... this kind of crap drives me absolutely bug*****.
I will say this though ... when this vehicle gets out of warranty, that goofy connector is coming off with a hacksaw, along with its evil cousins, the blue and red clamp klongdorker thing-a-hoochies, and getting replaced by fine, wholesome, honest, good ol' down-home, old-fashioned hose clamps and fuel line.

If you put your creative writing efforts toward changing your daggum fuel filter, you might not be so frustrated. Nonetheless, those klongdorker frustrations are felt by all who attempt.
The way I've avoided spilling fuel during filter changes in the past with fuel injected vehicles is by doing it after letting it sit turned off for a few hours. After an engine is shut off, the fuel pressure is slowly bled off until it's started again. I usually do it first thing in the morning and, so far, I've only gotten residual fuel DRIPPING down my arm, never under any kind of pressure other than atmospheric. I haven't changed my F-150s filter, yet (only 12,000 mi.), but I will be consulting this thread.
I change mine between 15000 and 20000, lately, closer to 20000. They do get dirty.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Blue clip tip
The article about the blue clips was very helpful, however I wasn't able to get the other end off the filter going to the engine with the blue plastic tool. I never heard a click when trying to get the prongs inside the fitting to release. The pictures that were posted using this tool make sense, but for some reason it isn't working on my 2008 F-150. I went ahead and placed the line with the blue clip back on that I was able to get off. Has anyone tried the silver tool after the blue plastic tool failed? I wonder what is the difference? Thanks for everyone posting their tips and experiences.
WOW this post made my filter replacement very nice I thank you for all the work you put in to your post A+. So I was hoping that you might tell me if your filter was in a brace or something because I unscrewed the nuts to uncover the filter and found my filter just laying there with lines attached. Is this right?
Thanks for your time.
Thanks for your time.
WOW this post made my filter replacement very nice I thank you for all the work you put in to your post A+. So I was hoping that you might tell me if your filter was in a brace or something because I unscrewed the nuts to uncover the filter and found my filter just laying there with lines attached. Is this right?
Thanks for your time.
Thanks for your time.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Sounds like an ill attempted modification by the previous owner. As BJ said, I have only ever seen a half wrap clip that holds the filter on these trucks. I have also been reading some other thoughts in this thread and want to share a novel idea. You can avoid the waiting time for the pressure to bleed off simply by hitting the fuel reset switch located on the front side of the fuse box. It is a red button. THis should disengage the fuel pump. Start your truck, it will idle for approximately 1-2 seconds. This will bleed off any pressure that the line may have. I have heard in the past to open the gas cap, this is nonsense. The pressure is held between the fuel pump and the injectors, not the gas cap and injectors. Another easier way to actually get the filter off with a line tool is to inset it, once inserted dont just try and slide the line off. First insert the tool then push the line on the filter as far up as it will go at the same time pushing the tool as deep into the line as it will go. Next pull the opposite direction, it should come off with minimal effort. The biggest mistake that I see people do is not get the tool far enough in the line for it to work correctly.





