How-To: Change your cluster color on 97-03
 

As many of you know, there is a hideous green color coming out of the cluster and everything else around your interior at night. First of all, there is an allusion that the tint behind the actual numbers is green. That is false. Ford actually put a pure, 100% blue tint back there. The problem is, standard incandescent bulbs put out a yellow (3000K) light. So whats that mean? Blue + Yellow = Green, or teal as most of us see. That is why I set out to change that. This mod is for 1997 and 1998 trucks. If you have a 99-04, see below. Keep in mind that to retain maximum light output, use the same color light as the filter. So for the 97-98 trucks, using a blue LED would be your best bet. Feel free to use any color you wish! (at your own discretion, of course!)

Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for anything that you mess up during this modification. So take your time and relax!

Note: if you have a 1999-2003 (inc. 2004 Heritage models), the process stated below is the same for removing it. [except you will have two cables instead of three]. It should be noted that in 1999 Ford switched from a blue overlay to a straight green one. If you want another color, you can either continue to convert your LEDs to that color and overpower the overlay or you can use acetone and carefully rub off the green. Additionally, 99-04 trucks use only SIX [6] T10 wedge (aka 194 or 161-type) bulbs.

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Tools needed:

5.5mm socket
7mm socket (or 5/16)
7x T10 Wedge LEDs (aka 194/161, your choice of color). 5 are for the cluster, 2 are for the HVAC controls
2x 74 (aka 37/73) LEDs
Pliers (optional)
Flathead screwdriver (optional)
Plastic cup (to store ALL the screws in!)
Wet rag (there will be A LOT of dust. OCD'ers might need the whole cleaning closet)

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First, a little schooling:

Incandescent bulbs emit light in a full 360- globe area, while LEDs are more know for intense, directed light. The cluster utilizes an array of clear plastic pieces that evenly scatter the light around the cluster. To avoid the omnious "hotspot" issues that arise with LED applications, you are going to want to stick to a convex-type, round head for light disbursement on your diode.

For instance, we are replacing this:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...-Ups/34761.jpg

With this:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...194_o_w_wm.jpg

These will cause hotspot issues:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2.../194i_w_wm.jpg

Where can you get these LEDs you ask? There are several good LED stores out there. In order of (average) price, cheapest to most expensive:

www.ebay.com (very cheap Chinese LEDs, you will have burnout issues months later)
www.autolumination.com (all around great website, huge selection)
www.oznium.com (a little more pricy)
www.v-leds.com (most expensive, but IMO, the best quality LEDs available)


Also, keep in mind you DO retain the dimmer feature!

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Estimated time: 45 minutes - 1 hour 30 minutes
Estimated cost: $15.00-$30.00

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Step 1:

Lets start by looking at our center bezel

Attachment 31279

Start by pulling it out. It has four clips holding it in, so just a light tug will break them free of their contraints.

Now that the center section is removed, you have to take the airbag switch off the center section. Use your 5.5mm socket and remove these three screws:

Attachment 31280

NOTE: SuperCrews do not have this and may skip this step. If you have a 99+ or newer, you will have a quick-connect so you can void this step. Also, I do not have 4x4, so if you do, you will have a different procedure here to remove that as well. Please let me know whoever finds out what type of screws it utilizes and how many so I can update this part.

Which leaves you something looking like this:

Attachment 31281

Using your 7mm (or 5/16) socket, remove the red highlighted screws. If you are also doing your HVAC controls (more on that later), those are circled in blue. Do not remove those yet, as we will touch up on it in a bit.

Step 2:

Next, remove the steering wheel surround. It too is held on by nothing more than clips. Be careful not to break it as the bridge is narrow.

Attachment 31282

Continue to remove the highlighted screws and put them in your cup. Do not remove the x'ed ones as they belong to the lower kick panel and some plastic peices behind the cluster.

Attachment 31283

Then theres another screw by where your knee sits at during driving...

Attachment 31284

...and the three above the cluster

Attachment 31285

Step 3:

Remove you headlight switch. This is a tricky part, so I made a video of how to do it

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i89.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid89.photobucket.com/albums/k227/Raptor05121/Write-Ups/MOV02935.flv">

Once that is done, you will have two harnesses plugged into the headlight switch. Take a flathead and pry the little red tabs out until they click and press and remove both harnesses.

Then remove the one screw behind where the headlight switch hides

Attachment 31286

Step 4:

Gently tugging at the piece that sits above your cluster, remove it and get it out of the way. As with the other pieces, sit it well out of your way. I put mine in my bed.

There is yet one more (what a suprise) screw hiding behind the left side.

Attachment 31287

Step 5:

Pulling rearward on the entire upper piece, it will snap out of place easily.

Attachment 31288

...leaving you this mess:

Attachment 31289

OCD'ers beware!

Step 6:

On the right side of the cluster are two more screws, with another two on the left side.

Attachment 31290

Attachment 31291

Step 7: Pull the entire cluster back a bit and unclip the three harnesses from the rear. The two side ones unclip from the bottom, with the larger center one having its clip on the top.

Attachment 31292

Turn over and locate the five black bulb connectors. They have "ILL" on the back to indicate which ones. These are your 194 holders. Twist them to the left (using a pair of pliars helps for the stubborn ones) just 1/4 turn and they will pop right off. Replace all of these with your LEDs and then locate the two smaller, white holders (37-type) also identified as "ILL". Twist these off and replace these.

Attachment 31293

NOTE: LEDs are simple positive/negative electrodes. Basically, you have a 50/50 chance of getting them in the right angle (pos to pos and neg to neg) the first time. Just put them all in and twist back to place. Just reinstall all three harnesses and plug in your headlight switch and turn on your parking lights to see which ones you got right and which ones you didnt. Unplug and simply reverse the sockets that didnt light.

Step 8:

Now that you have them all lighting, simply reverse the process stated above. Here's a rundown.

Plug back in the cluster and screw down with four screws.
Clip the large dash piece in place and screw down
Put the overhead cluster cover in place and screw in the three overheads
Screw behind the headlight harness and reinstall headlight harness
Pop in steering wheel surround.


Step 9:

If you wish to do your HVAC, its pretty simple.

Remove the four blue screws located in the third picture. Pull the controls back and you will see the two 194 bulb holders (black) in there. Just pop out, replace, and twist back in place. Screw down, and pop your bezel back in place after you screw your passenger airbag control back onto it.

Attachment 31294

And thats it folks! Wait until nighttime and light 'em up!!!

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032...9cda5a93_o.jpg

-Alex

Edit: Special thanks to 'thejake1989' for going the extra mile and doing a write-up on the headlight switch, heres a link for those willing to do this to compliment your new interior:

97-03 headlight switch blue led swap [write-up]

Very nice article, well written and i also like the video portion.

Good Job!!

Great article. I'm gonna think about doing this mod.

great job man!!! nice wright up.

nice wirte up man especially the video!

is there a way to make the light brighter? or is that just a bad picture? it seems like the needles aren't lit up all the way.

where would be a good place to get the clear bulbs? ebay?

Im currious about LOHFootball's question....

And i wander how much mine will be different with 4x4, and being a Scew...

Alex, Nice writeup bro too bad i cant use it but im sure most of you guys with the 97-03-04 heritage will have fun with this.

Where do you get the bulbs from?

what kind of film is over the cluster, i dont want mine to be blue, i want pure white and i've read over and over there is a film of some sort on it that is a green/blue.

First of all, I got the bulbs from eBay. Just go in and search "194 white LED" and find the best price (make sure the description says they are sold in pairs- they tend to catch you on that :thumbsup: )

Secondly, the needles are plenty bright. The picture was taken with an el-cheapo camera. LEDs are in the same boat as HIDs when it comes to pictures- they just don't do the justice (which makes it more exciting when you actually light them up and see how much brighter they are!)

Lastly, there is a film on the back of the gauges. You can get a Torx #2 and remove the plastic face and then the needles and if you are good, you can use acetone to remove the color. I HIGHLY suggest you have a spare overlay next to you just incase you mess it up.

Any more? :wave:

-Alex

awesome article man, i was just asking about this sorta thing too haha.
thanks for puttin it up for me and the rest of the guys!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

so just get the LEDs for the cluster and HVAC and swap and i have blue light? Do you know anything about the door switches and stuff?

looking good, just a quick point to add in, the Super Crews dont have the airbag switch you were posting about at the beginning, so the Screw guys can skip that step.

alright, thanks for the info and x2 on door switches
thanks again for the write up man, i appreciate it

Man, that is an awesome how-to! I have a 2007 F150 and I'm not particularly fond of the green cluster lighting. I think this will be my next mod, right on!!

Sweet! This looks interesting... Thanks for the article I definately could do this with ease now. I think I'm going to start with the HVAC controls first. Then tackle the odometer problem, then do this.

Are you still able to dim your LEDs? I have that switch to dim or to make them brighter.
Also my cluster is kinda different, the guages are fuel and oil on one side and 2 on the other side, is it easy to tell which bulbs and is it still the same.
Does this also change the left and right switch lights?

Thanks!

I'm not having any luck finding the 47 bulbs

thats awesome, great work man
 

looks awesome, but what about my CC/window switch/door locks/temp and compass. any sweet tricks for those things.

Great write up!

nice write up
looks like itll be pretty easy to change my whole interior to blue since i dont have door switches or anything

im gonna be making a pretty big LED order here within the next few months...

update 2
 

Thanks for the compliments, guys! I was kinda bored and found my camera under my seat so I knew you all would appreciate it!

To answer some questions:

I do not have power locks, but there may be a way to do this. Either someone can chime in or I can jump over to the junkyard and disassemble one and check. Also, the headlight switch it sealed, so no luck in changing that.

Thanks Patman, I'll put in a note for you SCrews.

My mistake! They are supposed to be 37 type LEDs, not 47. Article edited for this change and the fact you can use either 194 or 161 type (T10 wedge) bulbs for the main five.

Again, I have an XL with none of those, but next time I'm at the JY I'll pull some apart and see or maybe someone else can chime in.

Yes, the dimmer works regardless of what is displaying the light.

I had the same cluster as you (I swapped to a tach at the same time I upgraded to LEDs) and the 5 black ones are illumination lights with the two side-by-side ILL lights the same. And for the left and right switch lights, are you referring to the directionals?

-Alex

Thanks for the write up, Im for sure doing this:beers:

Here is a great site for bulbs

http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

Great write-up!


Edit: I've got a question, what type of LEDs, directional or ones with LEDs on each side?

Yep, I wanted to know if you changed them out too. If so what bulb number, THANKS! Also Nice job on the upgrade, your truck sticks out more and more.:thumbsup:

On my 1999 Ext cab, it had the airbag switch, but it had a connector on the back of it, so no unscrewing was needed. Its the same setup on my 2000 F-250.

So, theoretically, one could obtain blue 194 incandescent bulbs, install them and not have the typical LED hot spots but would still have a nice blue tint. Would you agree? I only ask because I powder coat these 194’s to the color I desire (transparent) and they never fade or burn to a different color. If this will work (in theory), I would like to try it on my 08.

Well the actual bulbs in the green arrows you see are 37's if that is what you are asking.

No, I saw no need to change those out. I still like the directional arrows to be green...just incase you leave them on going down the road the green will stand out against the blue to prevent humiliation :lol:

Thanks, I'll add that in too!

In theory, yes; actuality- no. My friend right down the street did this and although it didn't have "hotspots" the color was no where near as blue as mine. He did not replace the 37's up top like I did and you could only marginally see the difference between the blue-coated bulbs and the stock bulbs. You could try doing a DEEP blue, but I think that would restrict the lumenous output of the lights themselves

-Alex

Cool, thanks. I might have to see if I can find some LED's that disperse light better though. I want to do this but I don't want the hot spots.

Wide-angle LEDs would solve this problem but there are plastic runners inside the cluster that help disperse the light that are the shap of the bulb. My 194 LEDs are smaller than the incandescents, so they fit fine, but any other type of light that is bigger than the standard bulb wont fit correctly.

My thought is to scuff the surface of the LED from a polished clear to a satin surface. To disperse the light better and make it softer. I hope that makes sense.

It does, but with the actual production costs of LEDs at mere pennies, I have personally had the plastic lense popping off and all sorts of problems with just a tiny bit of pressure. There is a delicacy when handling those things, as the prongs bend off real easily as well... Not to mention scuffing the surface won't yield visible results, IMO.

I would think that you could scuff the tip of the bulb if you are having hotspot issues, and make less output out the tip, and seem like more light from the sides.

What was the verdict on the dimmer? Still functioning or not?

Well try it out and let me know.

And yes the dimmer works 100%. I use it all the time!

Hey nice write up I did this mod a while back but chose some green LED's got them from www.superbrightleds.com I used # 194 and # 37/#74 Led's


Attachment 31295

looks nice!

BEFORE EVERYONE STARTS ASKING, THAT IS A KM/H READOUT

once everyone sees "160" I know they're going to ask: "where'd you get a 160-speedo?!?!?" :rolleyes:

Didnt you know that was on the '98 50th aniversry Lariat's in Canada.....LOL:lol: