A) i've heard autozones are kinda borderline on quality. sometimes they work and sometimes not.
B) i'm going to assume your talking about the pcv tube. you need to replace that tube when it goes flat like that.

 

Thanks for the reply. Would that cause a rough idle and hard start?
Thanks,
Craig

 

yup.

 

So I can use regular vacuum tubing for this?
Craig

 

take a picture of what your talking about, you got me confused about what your talking about now. is it just regular vacuum line or is it bigger? and what color are they?

 

It'll be a bit on a picture. It is larger than regular vacuum tubing, black, and very soft.

Craig

 

I just cleaned my TB out to fix a LOW EGR code along with changind the DPFE and EGR valve. thought i would leave a few notes 1) remember how many vaccume hoses you take off and try to not damage them, however if you do this would be the time to replace them. 2) when removing the throttle cable remove the slack by manually opening the butterfly and lift towards the pass compartment it has to slip out of a groove. The cruis control is a snap on (it felt like i was going to break it when i took it off so just be deliberate in your movements and know that it is kind of hard) 3) My truck was still running rough untill i cleaned the MAF so plan to do that as well. Do that only with electrical cleaner or MAF cleaner. Make sure you ALLOW IT TO DRY, if power is put to it wet you run the risk of breaking that little wire then you cheap fix isnt cheap!! 4) be very generous with the intake cleaner better to get it all out now! Clean out every port sometimes a tooth brush can help with that stuck on grime. A special note about cleaner, gasoline should work fine its an excellent solvent. I also did not have any problem with the protective coating, but be resonable dont use a brillo pad on the inside use the chemicals or a soft brush to do the dirty work. I sprayed quite a bit of cleaner down into my intake not sure if that was the brightest, but i guess it will all burn of and cant be any worse than the SEAFOAM stuff. O and be carefull to not drop anything down the intake even if its just carbon keep as much out as you can. never know where it could get caught up. You will NOT need a new gasket for the throttle body as long as you dint damage the old one, but you WILL need one for the EGR valve. overall its pretty easy there are no special tools required ( i think i used a 10 or 8 mm and whatever socket the EGR needed.

PS DONT SPEND $90 on the DPFE at napa or discount auto. if its not an emergency I found a whole bunch on Ebay for 20 - 40 bucks. I got one to return to NAPA and save me the 50 $$.

List of what I used for the job
3 cans of intake cleaner
1 can MAF cleaner
EGR valve $45
DPFE $90 ($20-$40 on ebay )
8mm and 10 mm socket
toothbrush

optional
New air filter since your in there ?? hope that helps good luck its about an hour job the first time.

 

I had all the same rough idle symptoms as im hearing here. P0174(lean 2nd bank)/P0171(lean 1st bank) codes. First assumtion and easiest fix is bad or dirty MAFsensor. That wasnt it....

Next went for the vac leak... That was it! That pesky elbow on the back of the elbow and leads to the pass side valve cover was so rotted that it had collapsed and cracked to pieces . I removed and cleaned t-body and elbow. I didnt exactly polish the inside but i did smoothe out the inner surface a bunch and i think it did some good to help it from crudding up as fast this time. local parts store didnt have that little vac elbow but i used a piece of radiator hose of the same ID and it worked perfect and will NEVER go bad again. about an hour and all was back together and idling better than it has in 2 years. These 4.6s and 5.4s have strikingly similar ailments and fixes.

 

My '00 2x4 has about 100,000 on her and I had the BG products NHguy referred to on page three put through there. didnt see much of a difference but I guess you wuold have to pull it off to see for sure. I wasnt throwing any codes, just figured it was worth a shot for fuel economy and preformance.

 

Moved to HOW-TO.

 

What year truck was used in this writeup for the throttle body cleaning?

 

I have a question. Before removing the TB, would it be a good idea to run some seafoam thru the brake booster line to try and clean out any gunk below the TB in the manifold?

 

Since it was brought back to life this year....
The TB does have a special coating on the backside of the throttle blade. It is put on there to act like it has been carboned up after xxxxx miles. The TB is setup to simulate this when it is initially adjusted. That is why you shouldn't clean the TB plate off, hence all the warnings in the manuals.

 

Did this this weekend all in all not too bad and i am no pro mechanic whatsoever. But i did forget to have a plug handy for the coolant tube. What type of coolant is this?

 

I need to do this, but I have no idea what product to use for cleaning? The STP stuff on the first page doesn't seem to exist anymore?