Hid Helpppp!
Hey guys, Gotts question about a problem with my hid`s.
I got EuroEffects HID 8000k conversion kit for $200, it is supposedly a decent kit. It better be for the price... (I actually got it used on ebay for 40, but they are 200 in stores)
I wireed everthing up, This kit has the two-buld hi/low. I like the hi bulb (which looks just like stock when lit...) because you can switch to those if a cop flashes you or something.
So here my question:
I installed the kit and they were working at first. I wired my low setting to power the bright HID 800k bulb, and the high setting to the stock-like bulb. after about 20 minutes, the passenger-side hid light went out when on low. I switched to high, and the stock-like light worked.
I put it back to stock, and when I turned on my lights... the passenger side low didnt come on, however, the passenger side bright did.
So, at the moment.... I switched the hid 8000k bulbs to be powered by the high setting. Now, for the moment, I am just leaving my lights on high and my lights work with the 8000k hid's. But, even when they are switched, now when I go to lows, the passenger side Stock-like bulb does not come on.
Do you have an idea what I am saying? Any ideas?
I just want some kind of a reply.
Even an "I dont know" will help, so I dont think people are ignoring this post..
THANK YOU GUYS!!!
Oh, and if anyone is wondering how hid'd look... they are amazing. Extremely bright, and they are actually kinda like a black light, the make the white lines in the road glow. Its awesome.
I got EuroEffects HID 8000k conversion kit for $200, it is supposedly a decent kit. It better be for the price... (I actually got it used on ebay for 40, but they are 200 in stores)
I wireed everthing up, This kit has the two-buld hi/low. I like the hi bulb (which looks just like stock when lit...) because you can switch to those if a cop flashes you or something.
So here my question:
I installed the kit and they were working at first. I wired my low setting to power the bright HID 800k bulb, and the high setting to the stock-like bulb. after about 20 minutes, the passenger-side hid light went out when on low. I switched to high, and the stock-like light worked.
I put it back to stock, and when I turned on my lights... the passenger side low didnt come on, however, the passenger side bright did.
So, at the moment.... I switched the hid 8000k bulbs to be powered by the high setting. Now, for the moment, I am just leaving my lights on high and my lights work with the 8000k hid's. But, even when they are switched, now when I go to lows, the passenger side Stock-like bulb does not come on.
Do you have an idea what I am saying? Any ideas?
I just want some kind of a reply.
Even an "I dont know" will help, so I dont think people are ignoring this post..
THANK YOU GUYS!!!
Oh, and if anyone is wondering how hid'd look... they are amazing. Extremely bright, and they are actually kinda like a black light, the make the white lines in the road glow. Its awesome.
I forgot to add, when the light went out, It did not flicker, or slowly go out. It just went right off, like if I had just turned my lights off. If it was the wireing, wouldnt the light kinda flicker or dim-out (because the wires dont instantly melt, right?)
So, I am hoping it is just the fuse? Does the passenger-low beam have its own fuse? If so, where are the headlight fuses??
Someone told me that when you convert to hid, you are suppose to upgrade to a slightly larger fuse. however, Isnt the fuse directly matched to the size/capacity of the wiring harness to protect it? so, if I get a larger fuse, wouldnt that strain the wiring and eventually melt them? I have no clue...
So, I am hoping it is just the fuse? Does the passenger-low beam have its own fuse? If so, where are the headlight fuses??
Someone told me that when you convert to hid, you are suppose to upgrade to a slightly larger fuse. however, Isnt the fuse directly matched to the size/capacity of the wiring harness to protect it? so, if I get a larger fuse, wouldnt that strain the wiring and eventually melt them? I have no clue...
sounds like you have a wiring problem to your pass side Hi circuit.
Check your wiring from the pass side to see if your wire maybe got cut or caught when you were pulling your headlight assemblies in and out.
Check your wiring from the pass side to see if your wire maybe got cut or caught when you were pulling your headlight assemblies in and out.
I am almost possetive nothing got cut... I was pretty careful and it was fine after everything was bolted back together. when it was sitting in my driveway, I went back to the truck and hit the unlock button. The lights came on (normal) and then... the right one just went out... no idea why.
Can HID COnversions cause wire damage? Arent they a lower-current draw that regular lights?
Oh, and sorry, it was a little confusing... The passenger LOW is the one that is not working, not the high. I dunno if it will make any difference. DOnt think so..
Can HID COnversions cause wire damage? Arent they a lower-current draw that regular lights?
Oh, and sorry, it was a little confusing... The passenger LOW is the one that is not working, not the high. I dunno if it will make any difference. DOnt think so..
im almost positive your gonna have a wiring problem. Check with a test light to be sure, maybe your lights are just funky and both low beams went out simultainiously. (highly unprobable but not impossible)
One other thing you might want to check is the plug on the pass side light. The low beam connection may be not passing current. There arent any fuses for left/right. Theres just one headlight fuse and if your left side is working your right should be too.
If i were doing HIDs (will soon) i would run a relay to them from the original harness so that i wont have a problem with wiring.
I have heard people say their ballasts draw more current and melt the connectors or wiring but those are typically older vehicles. Most run them right off the factory wiring and work fine. I dont believe you would have had a problem in the relatively short time you had them on.
Nice truck by the way, that pic really reminds me of why i love the blue so much.
One other thing you might want to check is the plug on the pass side light. The low beam connection may be not passing current. There arent any fuses for left/right. Theres just one headlight fuse and if your left side is working your right should be too.
If i were doing HIDs (will soon) i would run a relay to them from the original harness so that i wont have a problem with wiring.
I have heard people say their ballasts draw more current and melt the connectors or wiring but those are typically older vehicles. Most run them right off the factory wiring and work fine. I dont believe you would have had a problem in the relatively short time you had them on.
Nice truck by the way, that pic really reminds me of why i love the blue so much.
Last edited by Fabian06SC; Oct 31, 2007 at 01:29 AM.
Yeah, it was really wierd. I drove around the block. Was very very happy, and then I parked, locked my truck, went back out to it, unlocked it, the lights turned on, and then the right-low went off as i was walking away for no ereason. They were on for like 20 seconds while I unlocked the truck and got something out of it and was walking away....
Im stumped...
THe passender-lower just isnt getting any juice...
Im stumped...
THe passender-lower just isnt getting any juice...
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could be you got them used...and do you have a relay set up on the lights???? yes they have a lower current draw once they are lit and warm, but on start up they use alot more....a relay will take power direct from the battery and then use the relay that takes a signal from the old wiring harness to tell the lights to come on...the direct power from battery is fused...
Last edited by troberts6874; Oct 31, 2007 at 07:14 AM.
Oh, and..... would it be a horrible idea to upgrade to a slightly larger fuse?
I was thinking, since it only needs a large current draw on initiall start up, it would only need it for about 1/2 a second. Is that enough time to melt the harness?
Is the high-beam harness a little beafier with a larger fuse? Should I just leave the hid wired to the high-beam? Or is that not meant to be ran as normal lights..?
Sorry, lots of theories... lol
I was thinking, since it only needs a large current draw on initiall start up, it would only need it for about 1/2 a second. Is that enough time to melt the harness?
Is the high-beam harness a little beafier with a larger fuse? Should I just leave the hid wired to the high-beam? Or is that not meant to be ran as normal lights..?
Sorry, lots of theories... lol
OOOOkkkkkk, SO....
I checked the fuse, I DO indeed have a passenger-low beam specific fuse. It is a little 10 amper. I changed it with another 10. HEadlights WORK.
So, I guess my question is...
Why did this happen? WIll I need to keep changing my fuses over and over? Or is it possible that it was just about that fuse's time to go anyways. (I have had my truck for about 2 years)
I dont believe Alot of people have had problems with hid conversions blowing fuses and/or melting the wireing. These kits are made to be used with stock wireing/fuses and I dont have a cheap no-name kit. Its a 200$, High quality kit... (Euroeffects).
Any thoughts?
Do you think I should be fine?
Or, should I look into hard wireing them to the battery for initial start-up as one of you mentioned?
I checked the fuse, I DO indeed have a passenger-low beam specific fuse. It is a little 10 amper. I changed it with another 10. HEadlights WORK.
So, I guess my question is...
Why did this happen? WIll I need to keep changing my fuses over and over? Or is it possible that it was just about that fuse's time to go anyways. (I have had my truck for about 2 years)
I dont believe Alot of people have had problems with hid conversions blowing fuses and/or melting the wireing. These kits are made to be used with stock wireing/fuses and I dont have a cheap no-name kit. Its a 200$, High quality kit... (Euroeffects).
Any thoughts?
Do you think I should be fine?
Or, should I look into hard wireing them to the battery for initial start-up as one of you mentioned?
add a relay for the lamps....if you put in a bigger fuse you run the risk of melting the wires....not to offend, but that is a cheapo...phillips are best in my opinion, i run them on all vehicles motorcycles included...i always add a relay harness for the stock wiring
years ago, my first set up cost me $1400....the last set i got was $450 with harness
years ago, my first set up cost me $1400....the last set i got was $450 with harness
Last edited by troberts6874; Oct 31, 2007 at 06:20 PM.
None taken. I got them used off of ebay from a guy that sold his truck. 40$ to my door I dont think is too bad for a hid conversion =).
Alright, so... A hott wire fron the batter splitces into..... What wire? WIth a fuse somewhere inbetween that connection? Is that what you are talking about? NO clue what a relay is.
Oh, and the little wire going to the top of the bulb... (the ignitor) has a grey coating. THat gray coating is cracked about 3mm up from the base, the light works, and there isnt much of a gap where the little crack is.... Could this be of any concern? I may have tapped it against something... Idk..
Alright, so... A hott wire fron the batter splitces into..... What wire? WIth a fuse somewhere inbetween that connection? Is that what you are talking about? NO clue what a relay is.
Oh, and the little wire going to the top of the bulb... (the ignitor) has a grey coating. THat gray coating is cracked about 3mm up from the base, the light works, and there isnt much of a gap where the little crack is.... Could this be of any concern? I may have tapped it against something... Idk..
not even going to play like i know how to make one...but here it is
http://www.xenonking.com/Mcculloch-R...ent-Parts.html
it has a heavier guage wire from battery with relay in the middle...the relay is turned on by the stock wiring harness...this makes your wiring a sort of remote switch..once the switch if turned on, the power is allowed to flow to the ballast and then out to the bulb....i just know it works, i buy them pre made....the come with wire sheilding and shrink wrapped, i dont think they are hard to make, if you know what to do...i dont so i buy them pre made
http://www.xenonking.com/Mcculloch-R...ent-Parts.html
it has a heavier guage wire from battery with relay in the middle...the relay is turned on by the stock wiring harness...this makes your wiring a sort of remote switch..once the switch if turned on, the power is allowed to flow to the ballast and then out to the bulb....i just know it works, i buy them pre made....the come with wire sheilding and shrink wrapped, i dont think they are hard to make, if you know what to do...i dont so i buy them pre made
hmmm, ok.... so....
I changed the fuse... Everything was working fine. I was driving around for about 1 hour tonight and on the way home... Whats this? no right-low-beam again.
Really wierd... The left side has had NO problems... but yet my right-low keeps blowing the 10 amp fuse.
Any thoughts?
COuld it be:
-a lose wire?
-the coating around the igniter for the hid bulb being cracked? (still works fine when lit though...)
HHHmmmmm....?
I changed the fuse... Everything was working fine. I was driving around for about 1 hour tonight and on the way home... Whats this? no right-low-beam again.
Really wierd... The left side has had NO problems... but yet my right-low keeps blowing the 10 amp fuse.
Any thoughts?
COuld it be:
-a lose wire?
-the coating around the igniter for the hid bulb being cracked? (still works fine when lit though...)
HHHmmmmm....?


