My truck is black and the side-rail caps are grey. Since I got a bedcap that matches the truck, it's been bugging me looking at the grey stripe in-between the cap and the bed (if that makes sense). Someone told me that I can paint them. Is this true? They are plastic. To replace them is too expensive for looks (I called Ford and the rails are bad enough, but the tailgate-guard..SHOOSH!) Is there anything that is aftermarket that is black and affordable? Or can I really paint mine? (sorry for the long winded question)

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Black 98 F150-XL RegCab, Short WB
2WD 4.6L 5spd. Windsor Triton 3.08
Air, Rear Slider, Duraliner Boxliner
K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Synthetic
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Tint: #4(5% trans.) RearCab & Bedcap Windows
#2(35% trans.) Cabside Windows


My Site

[This message has been edited by defacto (edited 01-08-2001).]

 

You can paint them, but prep work is rough. They are plastic, so you will need to prime them with a plastic adhering primer so the paint will stick. Should have a little flex-agent in it too, although, today's paints are fairly flexible. Where are you located? If you're in the Tampa area, my buddy could do it for you.

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--Lariat4WD--

2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class 3
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; GTS headlight blackouts; Westin Black nerf bars; Pendaliner bedliner; Genuine Steel Products (Longtek Engineering) black Grille/Brush Guard; GTS Tail Blazer II Slotted taillight covers; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights (for now); 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round off-road lights; Cranked torsion bars to level truck; Removed lower factory striping; Replaced factory gold & maroon ORP declas with silver
Pending
Sony XM754HX amp; 2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat
Due to lack of responses, I will no longer be building these boxes for resale. I will build the 2 orders I have received, but after that, no more here. Sorry. I will post diagrams on my web site for those of you still interested.
Wish list:
A few more lights; Flowmaster 40 Series single to dual exhaust w/ 18" SS tips out back; Optima red top battery; Viper alarm w/ remote start; Build a new house.

Please Visit My Web Site (Updated Daily) and Sign My Guest Book

 

Damn, Tampa eh? The "eh" was a hint
The weather outside my window tonight is -25 celcius. I WISH I was in Tampa. I'm in Toronto Canada.
Have you painted your own? or know anyone who has? How did the paint hold up?

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Black 98 F150-XL RegCab, Short WB
2WD 4.6L 5spd. Windsor Triton 3.08
Air, Rear Slider, Duraliner Boxliner
K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Synthetic
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Tint: #4(5% trans.) RearCab & Bedcap Windows
#2(35% trans.) Cabside Windows


My Site

[This message has been edited by defacto (edited 01-08-2001).]

 

You can hide the gray strip by using a high grade of electrical tape to cover the exposed cap section. Good tape will last as long as the bed rail cap. You can also get wide tape at electrical supply houses. I always put a small strip under the outside door handle because wifey's fingernails scar the paint

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2000 F-150, XLT, SC, 5.4, 4X4, 355 LS, ORP, Black/Silver, class III, single CD, sliding glass, med. gray, keyless, elect. shift, engine date 8-18-99, Superchip. '93 Harley Fatboy Black & tons of chrome

 

I haven't had mine painted (yet), but here's some pics of my Accord that I had the grille, mud guards, and lower door valances painted white to match. They held up great.





I am looking to have my lower valance and my bed rails painted in the near future by the same person that did these for me. My Accord came with the grille and lower door valances in dark charcoal-colored ABS plastic and the mud guards were black plastic.

Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by lariat4wd (edited 01-09-2001).]

 

You have a truck and a car like that? You are either totally rich, or totally broke haha! Man, that is a NICE car. How long ago did you do the painting, and was it expensive? Should I go to a shop around here? (You've sold me on the idea)

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Black 98 F150-XL RegCab, Short WB
2WD 4.6L 5spd. Windsor Triton 3.08
Air, Rear Slider, Duraliner Boxliner
K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Synthetic
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Tint: #4(5% trans.) RearCab & Bedcap Windows
#2(35% trans.) Cabside Windows



My Site

 

Any good body shop can paint them for ya.My guess on a price would be between 100 & 150 to get them painted(getting my taillight covers painted cost $50- at the best shop in town)

 

If you don't like them why not just remove them completely? That's what I'm doing on my Superduty.

 

If, i am not mistaken on the f150 the are holes is the top of the rails where the railcaps attach(not talking about the stake pockeet holes).That is reason enough for me to just paint them,if I were unhappy with the way they looked.

 

Yeah, it looks like painting them is the way to go. I'm not too crazy about the idea of putting electrical tape across it, and if I take them off completely, then the bedcap will drop about a quarter of an inch (maybe less) and the cap is already, in my opinion, too low. It's supposed to be flush with the cab, but it isn't quite, so any drop might make it look bad. Next time I'm going for a leer or other brand name that I know, not this Canadian Hawk thing. Thanks for all the replies!


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Black 98 F150-XL RegCab, Short WB
2WD 4.6L 5spd. Windsor Triton 3.08
Air, Rear Slider, Duraliner Boxliner
K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Synthetic
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Tint: #4(5% trans.) RearCab & Bedcap Windows
#2(35% trans.) Cabside Windows

(old pic)

My Site

 

Late reply... I sold the Accord to get my F150.
No where near rich...not broke either