Some how I have lost power to my amp. I have had the amp for about year now and just earlier this week it lost power and of course the sub is not working either. At first I though my soldering broke off the main power patch coming from the battery to the Phoniex Gold ciruit breaker thing its not the inline fuse one but the better one. So I re-soldered the hell out it anf still no power. So now I am thinking its the remote turn on wire or the connection from the circuit break thing to the amp.

Could my amp be fryed? How do I know its fryed?

any ideas?

Its only pushing one sub and its bridged.

 

Does the amp have it's own fuse possibly? In or on the the amp itself? I used to own a Soundstream amp that had a fuse in the amp itself. The only way to get to it was to flip the amp over and pull a small cover off. Most amps have them visible on the amp close to the hookups, now. Was the amp under a heavy load when it lost power? (high volume) If it was the remote on, it would have just not turned on to begin with. I'm not an stereo expert, but I have done all my own install work on my own cars. Someone should be along soon with more possible help for you. Good luck.,,,,98

 

Check your connections with a voltmeter... any meter, even a cheapy will do.

Possible fuse problem, turn-on wire connection either at the amp, at the HU, or in-between. Could be a bad amp. Check ground and power connections.

So check it has power, ground, and power at the turn-on wire. Check the fuse(s), could be internal as Screamer98 says. Check there is some AC voltage on each of the RCA cables coming from the amplifier. Check your speaker wire connections. Try the voltmeter on the speaker outputs on the amp, see if there is any AC voltage there.

Sometimes you can fry the output transistor in the head unit when you add too many accessories to it such as 2 or 3 amplifiers, crossovers, etc. It's possible to fry that by draining too much current.

If your turn on wire has no power take a short cable and connect the power to the turn-on connector right on the amp and see if the amp then turns on.

Keep checking everything. Clean up corroded electrical connections, etc.

 

Well the amp is now in the shop getting tested. The amp has an int. fuse so I di dnot take it apart to check sine it still has manf. warrenty. I did re-splice all of the connectiosn Power, Group, Remote Turn on, Speaker, and still nothing. I even replace my in line fuse unit with a better one and still nothing. I did check the fuse for HU they are okay. I wish I had meter so I could have tested my self I think this gives me reason to buy one. I should know something today or Sat. about the amp. I will post any updates...


Its no fun when your wife is jamming in her car and all I have is the just the 5x7 pushing.

 

I know what you mean, my previous amp would cut out for ten minutes for every hour on the interstate. Pretty annoying, at best! I got a more powerful amp, and I haven't had any more heat trouble since then. Good luck finding the trouble, I hope it's only the internal fuse. (fingers crossed),,,,,98

 

Multimeters are cheap nowadays. Probably 25 bucks for a simple sweep needle one. That's all you need really.

Some people with "hot" amps run a small relay off the HU remote turn-on and power wire at the amp to turn on a 12v 8cm diameter or smaller computer power supply or case cooling fan. Sometimes that's a good solution instead of buying a new amp if you want a cheap way out.

 

After having the amp tested which it tested fine and passed according to the car audio shop. And so did all my connections pass as well. After re wiring the amp it fired right up no more power issue. But I never was able to find out why it cut out in the first place by it works now so I am not complaining.

 

Good to hear!!
Maybe they replaced the fuse before tesing it? who knows?,,,,,98