Any one have their truck setup like this? 2 fronts and a sub?

I'm thinking of a little setup for my SCAB and I already have an Alpine MRV-F307 4 channel from a previous system from a long time ago when I was into car audio.

I'm not into the scene anymore but would like an upgrade to the stock setup while keeping Sync.

Specs are:

12V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 30W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 40W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................. 80W, 0.3% THD

14.4V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 50W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 60W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms ................................ 120W, 0.3% THD

Peak 14.4V
Per channel into 4 ohms .............................................. 90W
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................................. 240W

Haven't picked my front speakers but was thinking of a shallow mount 8 or 10 under the rear seat.

If this doesn't seem decent then I'll probably shoot for something like the Power Acoustik GT5-2500 5 channel.

thoughts?

 

The alpine is a nice little amp, as for the power acostik its decent for the price, but I wouldn't expect to see the power it's rated at from it.

Depending on the speakers you choose will really help decide what amp to use. And if nothing else you can always start with the alpine amp and if you aren't happy upgrade from there.

What kind of speakers are you planning to go with for the doors? The basic 6x8's or are you gonna bump up to a set of components?

How much bass are you looking to get out of the sub? The mirrors rattling effect or just enough to fill in that missing low end?

 

Just looking to fill in the bass and have nice mid and crisper highs. I could use a 5 1/4 component set. My pillars have the tweeter grilles. What size tweeter fits in there?

My days of mirror rattling are over. Half the time I have my 3 year old in back and can't crank it. I mainly listen to country and classic rock.

A few months back I installed a JL 8" ported microsub and JL 250/1 in my stepsons truck and was surprised at how deep it was.

 

I would give it a shot. With that current amp I would pay attention to the efficiency ratings for the door speakers since you will have around 40-50 watts on tap. As for the sub, look for an efficient sub in the power range around 100 watts, go ported if you want a little more output.
If you are not happy with that set up, than in the future you can bridge that 4 channel amp to run a couple of component door speakers & than purchase a mono amp with more power for a more power hungry sub.

 

Here's what I've put together so far. I tried to give a little wiggle room in case I decide to upgrade to a bigger amp.

5 1/4 components
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPR-50C.html

subwoofer
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...4-10TC104.html

If I'm not impressed I was looking at this little amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-OA600.4.html

Thoughts?

Then comes the question of PAC. Is there a specific module I would need?

 

That looks like that would be a nice little set up. If you end up buying another amp, I would run 2 amps instead of the 1 four channel amp. The MB Quart amp looks like a decent amp, but the power rating looks like peak power & not RMS power. Personally, I would stay away from amp manufacturers that do not give you RMS power ratings.

 

Actually the ratings on the MBQ amp are RMS. According to the specs on their site. The only one I'm not quite sure of is the mono bridged whether it's RMS or peak. I'll assume it's RMS.

 

Ok, now I'm gonna throw a curve ball into this mix.

I also have from way back in the day 2 other amps. I wasn't even sure if they should get thrown into this.

They are:
Audio Art 200.2x and an Audio Art 400.2x

I have long since lost the spec sheets on them but decided to google them and was lucky enough to find them.