To start my 2007 FX4 SCAB has the factory sub. It has developed a mind of its own as to if and when it wants to work. As far as I can tell I'm receiving power to the amp. 6.7v on remote wire, 12.7v power wire, and the signal wire I was getting 4.6v ac + side to ground. All the wires ohm'd out end to end and to ground. Not sure if I did the signal wire correctly. So I have two questions. One am I supposed to have ac voltage going from positive to negative on the signal wires or should I test to actual ground and two can I make an rca plug out of my factory harness at the sub or do I have to use a line level converter off of my front speaker wires and run the rcas to the new amp? I plan on replacing the factory sub and amp but would rather only run a power and ground wire for the amp. Sorry for the long post.

 

For a new amp you'll have to use a line out converter if you want rcas. And you'll need to run a remote turn on lead from somewhere.

I'm not sure what your asking in your first question, try rephrasing it and explaining a little more. By signal wire do you mean the one that is for the sound? And what do you mean by ac voltage going from positive to negative? For one, vehicles are DC, two being there is no true positive or negative for speaker wire (you can swap them and it'll still work fine), and three being what are you trying to do? Are you trying to see when it cuts out? Are you looking for a short?

 

What I am trying to do is get a working sub. Either I find a fix for mine or I will replace the sub and amp using the factory box and without hacking up my factory harness and pulling as few wires as possible. http://www.mediafire.com/view/?obeovzb1sknh9ks I went thru and did these tests. Test E5 is testing the signal wires to the factory amp it shows jumping from one pin to another to get said voltage. I get no voltage unless I go from pin to ground and I get 4.6v ac (seems high). So did I do test E5 correctly is my question? I did ohm all the wires in the harness to the amp and i tested all to ground. They were good. That being said and the occasional pound on the sub box tat triggers the sub to work sometimes leads me to believe the amp or sub is bad. Would you agree? If so then my thought is to get an amp that allows for a signal input of 4.6v wether it be a high level or low level(seems to depend on manufacturer) that has auto turn on (eliminating adding a relay to get 12v signal or adding a fuse adapter) and then just pull a power wire and make a new ground. That would be the easiest install I could think of but I'm not a pro and I'm only looking for an equivalent sound as to what I had when it worked. I really wish I could test when the sub is working to permanently eliminate the hu from being the culprit.

 

If you have anything around the house with a powered audio output (stereo, surround sound, etc...), hook the sub up to it to make sure the sub works. If it doesn't, replace it.

Check the audio input wires to the amp. Make sure they are getting an audio signal to the amp and one of the wires isn't cut. I don't know how you would do this, but it's better than buying a whole new setup when it's just a cut wire.

Check ALL connections on your factory amp and sub. Make sure they are all good. If they are, grab any crappy speaker (doesn't matter what size) that you are willing to blow. Attach it to the amp and see if it works. This is just to check that a sound signal is passing completely through the amp and going to the sub. If it doesn't, replace the amp.

I know that kicker amps come with a feature that turns them on when they sense an audio signal coming through the RCA inputs. This allows you to have a remote turn-on without running a trigger wire. All you would have to do then is run a new power and ground for the new amp (I don't think the factory wiring will be sufficient for an aftermarket amplifier), and turn your audio inputs into RCA (solder on RCA jacks for best results, but butt connectors are probably just fine) and you SHOULD be set. Also, look for an amp that accepts BOTH line level and powered inputs (once again, I know that some kicker amps do) so you have some flexibility when installing. But whatever you do, STAY AWAY from any power wire that's not 100% copper (example: Aluminum clad wiring that comes in cheap amp install kits) and use a fuse based on the power wire's maximum amperage. This will keep you from frying power wires like I did.

Hope that helps...

 

Soon as I get home from work I'll try attaching my sub to the junk radio in my garage. It's gonna be a few days. I know I have power to the amp but to double check could I wire the junk speaker to the signal wire before the amp to check signal. Is there enough power to get a quick sound. And then try the junk speaker, after the amp, also on that "to do" list. Thanks