Was this an acceptable or bad place to splice? and why?
Was this an acceptable or bad place to splice? and why?
I had a reputable place install my system.
Looks like they spliced the remote turn on lead to my amp into the injector coil wiring pack on top (not sure on 'coil wiring pack' description).
Please see pics, and comment whether this is acceptable?
Also with the close up pic, is the tape wrap job acceptable?
Where is a better place for this wire to be tied in?
Blue wire semi-pulled from wire loom is the wire in question.
Remote lead to injector coil wire pack

Blue wire comes out of loom, turns sharp right into wrapped tape and then is spliced beside the plug in connector.
Close up Remote lead to injector coil wire pack
Looks like they spliced the remote turn on lead to my amp into the injector coil wiring pack on top (not sure on 'coil wiring pack' description).
Please see pics, and comment whether this is acceptable?
Also with the close up pic, is the tape wrap job acceptable?
Where is a better place for this wire to be tied in?
Blue wire semi-pulled from wire loom is the wire in question.
Remote lead to injector coil wire pack

Blue wire comes out of loom, turns sharp right into wrapped tape and then is spliced beside the plug in connector.
Close up Remote lead to injector coil wire pack
Your truck specs show that you have a Kenwood headunit already in your truck. Your headunit has the amp remote power wire coming out of the back of it that will turn your amp on whenever the headunit is powered up. Why you would pull keyed power off of a coilpack is beyond me. I would ask your reputable stereo shop why they hooked it to the coil instead of your headunit?????
If you pull your Kenwood headunit out of the dash there should be only one solid blue wire or solid blue w/white strip wire coming out of the harness in the back of it. This is the remote turn on wire for the amp. I have an Kenwood Excelon x792 headunit in my truck and it turns on my amp and capacitor for me.
Last edited by Kraft1982; Jun 14, 2011 at 02:45 PM.
Thanks for the quick replies/comments.
Before I go any father, I'll repeat part of my note...
'Looks like they spliced'
When I go back to the shop, I will ask them using the cluesless approach, and confirm.
The wire loom is very new.
I had a remote starter installed two winters ago from the same shop.
Maybe this blue wire goes to the starter module under the dash?
This shop botched a couple 'items' with my install.
In-shop miscommunication could be a reason, BUT no excuses though.
I talked personally with the owner about my install.
Asked multiple questions, he told me about my job, the installation items
to be included and locations where major pieces would go.
1) AMP location - They didn’t mount the amp on the back wall as I was told.
They mounted the amp on a carpeted board to the floor under my back seat.
How did they attach it to the floor ? I still need to look.
They cut into my rubber floor.
If they screwed into my floor, I will be upset (more upset at this point).
2) Powere wire to AMP - They used 8 gauge wire after
I told the owner 4 gauge was recommended by the MFR in the AMP manual.
I was told 8 gauge was acceptable for the amp.
I said I felt comfortable knowing the MFR recommendations were followed.
I was willing to pay the costs for 4 guage.
It was agreed 4 gauge wire would be used.
Everything sounds great, but these 'slips' are not acceptable in my book.
Day of install, I mentioned the amp location when I picked up.
They said they'd move the amp to the back wall.
Should I go there guns blazing, or first act clueless with that lead wire question?
Then pull out the guns if they did install that wire there?
Was gonna have them install in my mustang, too, 2nd thoughts now.
Before I go any father, I'll repeat part of my note...
'Looks like they spliced'
When I go back to the shop, I will ask them using the cluesless approach, and confirm.
The wire loom is very new.
I had a remote starter installed two winters ago from the same shop.
Maybe this blue wire goes to the starter module under the dash?
This shop botched a couple 'items' with my install.
In-shop miscommunication could be a reason, BUT no excuses though.
I talked personally with the owner about my install.
Asked multiple questions, he told me about my job, the installation items
to be included and locations where major pieces would go.
1) AMP location - They didn’t mount the amp on the back wall as I was told.
They mounted the amp on a carpeted board to the floor under my back seat.
How did they attach it to the floor ? I still need to look.
They cut into my rubber floor.
If they screwed into my floor, I will be upset (more upset at this point).
2) Powere wire to AMP - They used 8 gauge wire after
I told the owner 4 gauge was recommended by the MFR in the AMP manual.
I was told 8 gauge was acceptable for the amp.
I said I felt comfortable knowing the MFR recommendations were followed.
I was willing to pay the costs for 4 guage.
It was agreed 4 gauge wire would be used.
Everything sounds great, but these 'slips' are not acceptable in my book.
Day of install, I mentioned the amp location when I picked up.
They said they'd move the amp to the back wall.
Should I go there guns blazing, or first act clueless with that lead wire question?
Then pull out the guns if they did install that wire there?
Was gonna have them install in my mustang, too, 2nd thoughts now.
I have no experience with remote starters, but this blue wire very well could be a part of that system and not the amp. If the shop did all the work on the truck just ask them what this wire is for. Say you were getting ready to change the spark plugs and saw the extra wire attached to the coil wiring and want to verify what this wire is for and what it does. Because coils are very expensive to replace and you don't want them screwed up.
Just curious, how come you don't do your own installs? If you have all these problems with there work, you could save yourself the money and hassle having to deal with them.
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4 yr old comes first once home from child care.
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was easier to pay someone to do it, only lost my truck for a work day.
(at least that was the plan, now more time will be needed).
that's correct norm that wire is for the tach sense input of the alarm for the remote start the alarm is programmed after the car runs a few min. to learn the idle rpm. so it know when the car running and it also monitor's the rpm's for over rev so it can shut down during high rpm's
that's correct norm that wire is for the tach sense input of the alarm for the remote start the alarm is programmed after the car runs a few min. to learn the idle rpm. so it know when the car running and it also monitor's the rpm's for over rev so it can shut down during high rpm's
Ummmm....I've done a few top of the line alarms/remote starts on gas and diesels trucks and never tied into any COP on a gas ford truck. In fact nothing was EVER tied into ANYTHING under the hood.
If you program the alarm for voltage sense then no need to wire anything under the hood,how ever if you want the alarm to detect over rev. to shut down the alarm if it rev's to high. the tach wire grey ( dei models) need to be connected to the factory tach circuit or to the non common color wire on the fuel injector.
Last edited by orlandof150fan; Aug 16, 2011 at 07:44 AM.


