Funky stuff happening - amp problem?
Funky stuff happening - amp problem?
I've been running Alpine's 6.5" Type R components for a year or so now. A few months back my passenger speaker quit working (woofer). The tweeter still played. I did some quick checks with a multimeter and it seemed to be a problem with the crossover. The amp was still providing power to the crossover, the tweeter still got power, and the woofer worked on the driver's side crossover when I switched the side it was on. This made me think it was a problem with the crossover. I simply didn't have time to work on it so I let it be.
I finally got around to it and just decided to get a new set of passives. Now, what I have is brand new and should work. However, some weird stuff happens. The first thing I did was hook up the passenger side (same side original woofer went out). Got it all hooked up and the tweeter played, but the woofer didn't play like it should. Meaning, sound at least came out, but it was extremely low volume.
So I go ahead and hook up the driver's side. The driver's side woofer works, and when I hook up the passenger side woofer on the driver's side it plays fine. So more confusion....apparently it wasn't the crossover that was the issue. To add to this, I hooked up the tweeter on the driver's side and it does not play at all. (Of course the one thing I forgot to check was the passenger side tweeter in the driver's side)
So now I'm confused. I tried researching and from what I've read, it's possible to damage components if you leave one disconnected (or in my case, damaged).
Now, I don't know how reliable this is, so I'm asking you guys for a second opinion:
Looking at the issues I'm having and the short list of possible suspects, could this be an amp problem? Is it possible to damage certain frequencies of an amplifier?
In my case, it's a cheap (good excuse to upgrade) 2-ch amp. Could my driver's side channel be damaged at the frequency that plays the tweeter and the passenger's side channel be damaged at the frequency that plays the woofer?
Or is the guy that said that full of it? (He claims it's from a manual)
I finally got around to it and just decided to get a new set of passives. Now, what I have is brand new and should work. However, some weird stuff happens. The first thing I did was hook up the passenger side (same side original woofer went out). Got it all hooked up and the tweeter played, but the woofer didn't play like it should. Meaning, sound at least came out, but it was extremely low volume.
So I go ahead and hook up the driver's side. The driver's side woofer works, and when I hook up the passenger side woofer on the driver's side it plays fine. So more confusion....apparently it wasn't the crossover that was the issue. To add to this, I hooked up the tweeter on the driver's side and it does not play at all. (Of course the one thing I forgot to check was the passenger side tweeter in the driver's side)
So now I'm confused. I tried researching and from what I've read, it's possible to damage components if you leave one disconnected (or in my case, damaged).
Now, I don't know how reliable this is, so I'm asking you guys for a second opinion:
.....without the woofer inline to "damp" the crossover, the coil and cap in the woofer crossover will resonate at the crossover frequency, and will SHORT the amp at that frequency.
Looking at the issues I'm having and the short list of possible suspects, could this be an amp problem? Is it possible to damage certain frequencies of an amplifier?
In my case, it's a cheap (good excuse to upgrade) 2-ch amp. Could my driver's side channel be damaged at the frequency that plays the tweeter and the passenger's side channel be damaged at the frequency that plays the woofer?
Or is the guy that said that full of it? (He claims it's from a manual)
Turns out it's the amp. I decided to try something before rewiring everything. I figured since it's a 2-ch amp.....if the passenger side is bad then that one channel would be bad. If I switched them and the passenger speaker worked and driver's cut out, that it was a bad channel. Turns out that's exactly what happened. Looks like I'm gonna go pick up a new amp.
dont go and buy a cheep amp if it says 1200watts u prob have a rms of 320watts buy quality like jl audio. they r true



