Howdy all!

Should have all the components for my stereo upgrade here by the weekend. Truck is an 07 s-crew.

Pioneer DEH-P4100UB head unit
Pioneer TS-D6802R door speakers
American International install kit FM-K538
Metra harness adapter 70-5520
Metra antenna adapter 40-CR10
Atrend B-series single 10" box A371-10CP
Image Dyanamics 10" sub ID10D2

Amp will be a Crossfire 705D that's a holdover from my previous ride (unfortunately my monstrous Crossfire 12" P1 sub simply won't fit. )

I'm going to mount the amp behind the seat and think I have a pretty good grasp on seat removal. I'm pretty sure I also understand what's involved in pulling up the sill plates and routing all the cabling in the wiring channels. I think I've lucked out that the previous owner had a system in the truck and there's at least on RCA pair and a 4 ga power wire already run. Have to make sure they aren't damaged, though.

Any other pitfalls or gotcha's to watch out for?

Brad

 

To add,

I'm aware of the molex connector issue when it comes to running new wires in the front doors. I really really don't want to have to go around poking holes in my new (used) truck. Given the fact that the Crossfire maxes at 50w per channel, will I really be losing all that much by tapping into the factory speaker wires at the harness adapter?

Also, is there an adapter plug that I can use to go from the factory door speaker connection to a simple spade connection for the new speakers? I'd rather keep everything so I can pop the factory units back in without having to redo the ends.

Brad

 

Check with Crutchfield for an adapter for the speakers. Usually if you buy from them they'll ship them free but I would imagine they can sell them to you as well.

 

The part you need for the speaker harness is Metra 72-5600.

 

Crutchfield does sell them, at 12.99 pair. I found them cheaper at sonicelectronics for 9.99 pr. Sundevil is correct, the part # is 72-5600

 

Best Buy. 11.99 each and in stock locally. Picked them up about twenty minutes ago.

And the sub came in this morning!!!

Brad

 

well look at that...the evil big box store is cheaper then crutchfield lol...

 

Especially if you can get employee discount. Its sad to see how much money gets made off us in retail on certain things.

 

I plan on working at bestbuy for the rest of my life because I will never be able to pay retail for consumer electronics ever again. lol.

 

I'm running pioneer Rev's (TS-D602p) each getting sent over 100w from my amp (Pioneer GM5300T) and it's absolutely fine so far (a week in my truck, spent a year in my previous car). I've never changed the wiring through the doors. If I was buying a $500 comp set I would, but with my $100 coax speakers it isn't worth it. Sound is crystal clear, honestly I don't see the point to waste more time.

 

Door speakers are in. Anti-climactic is an understatement. Total install time for all four (including testing everything and putting away the tools)? About 45 minutes.

I also confirmed my suspicion that a power cable had already been run. Unfortunately it terminated under the front passenger seat. I'll have to reroute it in the door sill and solder on an extension so it will reach the rear bulkhead, but that's no big deal. It even has a fuze block already installed in the engine compartment. The cable was disconnected and hanging loose behind the battery.

Also under the carpet was an 18" length of heavy braided cable run to a body ground. I'll have to relocate it and run a bit of solder in the connector, but it will make a dandy ground cable and it's one less thing I have to buy. I also discovered what appears to be a remote wire. I have to verify, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is. If that's the case, all I have to run is mount the amp, run two RCA pairs and four speaker wires from the dash and I'll be ready to tune!

Brad

 

Dont solder amp power wire. Buy a new length and re run it.

 

Curious as to why.

Brad

 

A couple reasons. First of all, its potentially dangerous. Secondly, Most soldering irons will not get hot enough to melt the wires together all the way through the core of the wire. Hell, the one we have at work, a decent weller, struggles to solder 12 gauge ignition wires in a remote start install. With just the outside soldered, it is easy to flex and break the connection. There is also the potential for a substantial voltage drop on one side of the solder compared to the other, however this wont be known unless you do it and meter both sides. Finally, IMO, its ghetto. Whats the point in spending all that money on a set up, only to have a ghetto rigged power wire? Here is a pic of a soldered power wire. Would you really want that in your car?


Knu Concepts has their power wire for $1.40 a foot. Might want to check that out.

 

Lubbock Welding Supply. Single conductor 4awg braided for $1.21 per ft and they are just up the street.

Now to find someone local that carries 4-pair shielded and decent RCA ends. Be nice to run on cable instead of two, and to be able to cut it to length instead of ending up long or short.

Brad