I have a 98 F150 Reg Cab. I have already installed Pioneer TS-A6815 front and TS-A6813 rear and a Pioneer CD player DEH-P3000. After a few months I decided I wanted to add and amp.My questions are would an amp make a difference with my 6X8's. I also wanted to put in a 4 channel amp to power all four speakers but I wanted to know how much power can I put thru my speakers I was told a 50w x 4 would work the best on my speakers has anyone done this. Also how hard is it to install an amp, I think I will do all right with getting it power and grounding it and attaching the RCA preouts but I wanted to know how do you hook up the speakers in the doors is there and easy way to run the wires to the amp, I think I could figure out the rear speakers also what type or gauge of speaker wires should I use. Lastly what would be the best way to mount your amp I think under one of the seats would be best but how would you attach it to the floor. I have heard some people say they just screw it to the sheet metal but I was a little wary of doing that, the one I thought would work best for me would be to put a piece of plywood underneath the carpet and screw the amp to that has anyone done this, what are the pros and cons of this type of installation. Thanks for reading such a long post. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[This message has been edited by InfiniteMhz (edited 08-23-1999).]

 

50w x 4 should be plenty for your speakers. You may be able to go more depending on what the speakers are rated for.

As far as installing an amp, it will be necessary to fuse the amp about 18" from the battery. I would also suggest 10 or 8 gauge wire to provide power to the amp. The amp will have provisions for speaker connections. All you have to do is run the speaker wire (18 or 12 gauge) through the rubber sleeve between the door and the pillar and use some spade terminals to connect to the speakers. You will also need to run a line from the head unit to the amp for the remote turn on. You can use the power antenna lead if your head unit doesn't come with a remote amp turn on lead. Also, try to keep your ground wire short (less than 24"). You may be able to ground to the seat belt bolt or something like that. One other thing, try to keep your RCA cables as far away from the power cables as possible to reduce the chance of induced noise.

The best way to mount the amp would be to, as you said, mount it to a piece of wood under the carpet.

Hope this helps.

 

25x4 of true rms power should be enough for 6x8s.
More power won't hurt but 50x4 may be more than you need.
Remember coax speakers are normally overated on power handling.
Give the job of heavy bass to a sub if that is what you are looking for.
A handy place to tap power for the amp is the starter soleniod (hot side of course not start side) much neater looking than battery tap off. also doesn't get in the way when doing battery work. Corrosion problems are also limited.
Plywood mount is the way to go.
I am running signal and power wires in the little "track" under the drivers side door threshold.
Lucky me no noise problems.
It is better to separate power and signal wires if possible.
As for getting signal to front speakers, hook up to the adapter that plugs into the factory harness.
That is how I wired my amp
(You will need to unhook the wires from the deck to this adapter first)
Pulling separate wire into doors is better but I'm too lazy to do it that way.
I hope this helps.

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.

[This message has been edited by 54regcab (edited 08-24-1999).]

 

I have installed quite a few custom stereos, and the one I did in my F150 was by far the easiest as far a running wires and installing a stereo, the box was a different story though. I agree with everyone else as far as running wires in the trough, but the power cable can be connected to the PDC ( power distribution center a.k.a. fuse box under hood). Always unhook the battery first. Then release the PDC from its bracket(4 little clips on the sides). The main feed wire is under a sliding cover. Unbolt it and put your ring terminal on and retorque.

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stock 98 XL, Reg. cab,4.6, Auto, Tow package, 255/70R16 on styled steel wheels,3.55LS, Black with chrome grille and bumpers! MODS: custom stereo by me, building speaker box was a !@#$%. K&N air filter.

 

98Sleeper,
I would like dimesions/plans/ideas about your regcab box.
I see you went through some painstaking efforts to get it right.
I wish I'd thought of hooking to fuse box under hood.
It would have saved me from having to fish the wire across the engine compartment.

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.

 

I would suggest running 4 gauge power wire from your battery to power your amp(s). 8 gauge will be sufficient to power a 50x4 amp for your front and rear speakers. But, if you plan on adding a sub amp, or using a 5 channel amp for front/rear/sub you will be happy you spent the extra $20 for 4 gauge.

Make absolutely sure you fuse your amp power cable within 18" of the battery terminal connection. Streetwires makes an amp wiring kit with power, ground, turn-on, fuse holder, fuse, ring terminals, etc. Great kit that makes install easier. Got mine at crutchfield. Remember, think 4 gauge.

Later,
ALA G8R

------------------
97 Lariet SC Flare 4x4, Red/Silver, 5.4L, 3.55LS, ORP
**Superchip, K&N w/ ABM, Flowmaster
** Westin Nerf Bars, Soft Tonneau, Bel Radar Detecter
** Pioneer CD Player, Infinity 57.1CS components up front, Polk 572a's in back, MTX 5000 Thunderform subs, 300 Watt Soundstream Amp for sub, Rockford Fosgate 400a4 for front/rear, Audio Control EQX.

 

Agree with ALAG8R Fuse the B+ lead.
A must for safety.

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.

 

I agree with ALA G8R 4 gauge without a doubt. I have made the mistake of 8ga. and ended up pulling new wire. I would lean toward pulling new 16 ga to your speakers as well. You may also want to consider a circuit breaker. They add a few options you can't get with an in-line fuse.

I buy most of my wiring from West Marine. The circuit breaker was 39 at a local car audio shop and $25.00 at West Marine. SAME MAKE.... Also, their cable 4ga., 8ga., etc. is made by Ancor. It is pre-tinned, with thicker insulation and notch above the rest. At about half the price. Do not use their speaker wire!!

My $.10...... Got change?

Todd

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97 White F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP, 4.6, SuperChip, Stillen Air Intake, Gibson Exhaust, Hellwig Sway Bar, Weld Wheels, 33" Bridgestone A/T Duelers, 3" Body Lift, Rancho 9000's, Billet Grill, SmittyBilt Nerf Bars (Stainless), SnugTop Shell (Expo), Sony ES CDX780 Head Unit, W/CD, Sony ES 10 Disk Changer, Sony ES XDP 210 EQ / Digital Pre-Amp, MTX 4X75W AMP, Kenwood 300W AMP for Sub., 1 Fared Lightning Monitor Cap, Optima Yellow Top Battery, MTX ThunderForm W/2-8"-4ohm Fosgate Punch XLC, Infinity Kappa components in front, Infinity Kappa 5X7 rear. On Order: White face gauge? Still looking.......

 

About the 4ga wire, do you think it would make any difference on my small amp (35x2 rms)or does this only apply to large multiamp systems?

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.

 

54regcab,

For an amp on a short run 8 gauge is fine. However, I see "subs are on the way." Which may bring another amp!?

I ran 2 gauge from the battery, > circuit breaker, > cap, > distribution block, > 8ga to amps, EQ/pre-amp. With room to grow.

This setup only works if you have fuses on your amps. Otherwise, your distribution block should contain individual fuses to protect each component/amp of system. These fuses are in addition to the one -18" from the battery.

Todd

------------------
97 White F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP, 4.6, SuperChip, Stillen Air Intake, Gibson Exhaust, Hellwig Sway Bar, Weld Wheels, 33" Bridgestone A/T Duelers, 3" Body Lift, Rancho 9000's, Billet Grill, SmittyBilt Nerf Bars (Stainless), SnugTop Shell (Expo), Sony ES CDX780 Head Unit, W/CD, Sony ES 10 Disk Changer, Sony ES XDP 210 EQ / Digital Pre-Amp, MTX 4X75W AMP, Kenwood 300W AMP for Sub., 1 Fared Lightning Monitor Cap, Optima Yellow Top Battery, MTX ThunderForm W/2-8"-4ohm Fosgate Punch XLC, Infinity Kappa components in front, Infinity Kappa 5X7 rear. On Order: White face gauge? Still looking.......




[This message has been edited by LuvTheC (edited 08-25-1999).]

 

54regcab,

There are many older amps that don't have fuses. This includes quite a few new amps as well!?

You would probably be ok with 8ga. 4ga would be better & safer. You will need to estimate your current demands for your system. I remember you mentioning Crutchfield a few times. They have an very good installation guide which can help figure thes values. I think it is divide RMS by total "peak" watts and multiply that times total/combined fuse rating....... Maybe???? If you can't find it I'll double check....

Thanks..... I am mostly interested in SQ (sound quality) I have built my system accoringly. It HAS been great fun. I LOVE driving my F150!!!!!

Be well,

Todd

------------------
97 White F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP, 4.6, SuperChip, Stillen Air Intake, Gibson Exhaust, Hellwig Sway Bar, Weld Wheels, 33" Bridgestone A/T Duelers, 3" Body Lift, Rancho 9000's, Billet Grill, SmittyBilt Nerf Bars (Stainless), SnugTop Shell (Expo), Sony ES CDX780 Head Unit, W/CD, Sony ES 10 Disk Changer, Sony ES XDP 210 EQ / Digital Pre-Amp, MTX 4X75W AMP, Kenwood 300W AMP for Sub., 1 Fared Lightning Monitor Cap, Optima Yellow Top Battery, MTX ThunderForm W/2-8"-4ohm Fosgate Punch XLC, Infinity Kappa components in front, Infinity Kappa 5X7 rear. On Order: White face gauge? Still looking.......

 

54Regcab,
LuvTheC is right on the money. If you bridge 2 channels of your 4x50 amp with a 4 ohm sub, your amp will see a 2 ohm load which will double your power in the bridged channel to 200W. I would calculate your current as follows:
50% efficiency
Minimum operating voltage is 12V

(((2x50W)/0.5)/12V)+ (200W/0.5)/12V) =
16.67 + 33.33 = 50Amps

This is absolute worse case and should be your design point.

You could probably get away with 8AWG cable. However, if you ever add any more than 100W to you system and your power cable run is greater than 13ft, you will need 4AWG.

I got this info from Crutchfield's install guide.

Later,
ALA G8R


------------------
97 Lariet SC Flare 4x4, Red/Silver, 5.4L, 3.55LS, ORP
**Superchip, K&N w/ ABM, Flowmaster
** Westin Nerf Bars, Soft Tonneau, Bel Radar Detecter
** Pioneer CD Player, Infinity 57.1CS components up front, Polk 572a's in back, MTX 5000 Thunderform subs, 300 Watt Soundstream Amp for sub, Rockford Fosgate 400a4 for front/rear, Audio Control EQX, Streetwires Power Distribution



[This message has been edited by ALA G8R (edited 08-25-1999).]

 

Thanks for all the great ideas. What would be the best for my speaker and CD player combo.A Jensen XA 50x4 $179,Kenwood 25x4 $199,or Kenwood 50x4 $299. Will I get better results by using 50x4 amp or would it be better to stick with 25x4 on my 6x8's that are rated 2-50 Recommended Power Range(Watts RMS) 150 Peak Power Hadling. I do not mind spending the extra money but I do not want to buy more power than my speakers can take edvantage of. Also I planned on doing the install myself and I wanted to know what gauge of wires I should use to power the speakers and how should I run them to the speakers in the door.

 

Get the Kenwood 25x4 for 199.00.
See my post near top about wiring door speakers.
18ga is fine for coax speakers.

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.

 

I might use a passive crossover for the subs but will problably end up getting a 4channel
amp and brideging the rear channels for the sub.
I am now using 8ga wire.
If I get a 50x4 amp should I run the 4ga?
I would be taking out the Sherwood if I did.
I very well could be wrong but I always thought all amps had built in fuses.
I see you have a quite elaborate system.
I'll bet it sounds great.

------------------
99 XLT 5.4l reg cab
4 wheel disc/ABS
5 star larait style wheels
Toreador red 2tone
3.55 gears
255/70/16 OWL
Delta toolbox
Eclipse 5340 cd player
Memphis ARCS50 component speakers (excellent sound)
Sherwood amp
subwoofer coming soon
More mods as funds become avalible.