help! choosing the right amp

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 02:17 AM
  #1  
darnellp's Avatar
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help! choosing the right amp

So i have 2 pairs of alpine type s 5x7's and a alpine mrp-f250 amp powering them, and now i want to add a jl audio 10w1 4 ohm sub. my question is what 4 channel amp would have the correct wattage to power my speakers and my sub??? (keep in mind my car audio knowledge is very low)
 
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 05:08 PM
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Zachm89's Avatar
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From: Longview, Tx
You don't need a 4 channel amp for only one sub, in fact it would be a pain in the ***. Go with a mono amp (1 channel) that runs equal to the RMS and MAX watts as your sub. i think it runs 150rms and 300max?? not sure, it should say on the box or in the owners manual. PM me if you need any more audio help
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:33 AM
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Zach is playing safe but not smart. You need a amp that exceeds your sub ratings. Ignore max, that spec is only used to push sales in reality.

The way Zach is thinking: The speed on the interstate is 70mph so buy a car that can only go 70mph. If that car's top speed is 70mph it's probably working really hard to go that fast and it's not going to last very long. See?

Soooo... if you get a amp that can easily meet your subs specs (a more powerful amp) it will run cooler, easily push the sub, and last longer.

This Hifonic Txi 1008D looks like a great choice for that sub. With 350w RMS at 4 ohms. Plus if you decide to upgrade to more subs it's stable down to 1 ohm with 1000w RMS. Here's a link to it.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:20 PM
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Is it possible i could get a 4 channel amp and get channels 1 and 2 to power the front speakers and get channels 3 and 4 to power the sub and run the back speakers off my head unit??
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 04:13 PM
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Possible...yes. Practical? not at all. Get a second amp.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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C. Whammy's Avatar
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besides, alot of speaker amps dont have low pass crossovers. so you would get high pitches through the sub
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 02:03 AM
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Hell all you need is a small 2ch or 4ch amp. An Alpine MRP-F250 will handle both the front OR rear doors and the sub.

EDIT: You already have that amp. Leave the rear spks off the deck power. Bridge the W1 across the 3&4 channels.
 
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