? On how to mount AMP behind seat
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Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 77
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From: Tacoma, WA
? On how to mount AMP behind seat
Ok so is there any special way to mount an amp behind the seat of my 04' super cab. In other words do I need a certain type of screw, do I need to mount some type of wood first to truck and mount amp to board. And will I need to put any type pf silicone or other sealant on screws that go through shhet metal to prevent rust ot anything.
Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 51
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From: Weymouth, MA
i mounted my amp behind my seat on my 05 super cab. Just used a couple of self tapping screws right to the metal, no silicone or wood or anything. I hav not had any problems with it. Its a real clean look!
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 390
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From: Chester County, PA
From what I've heard/read, some amps have issues being mounted directly to metal and it's best to mount them to a piece of wood and mounting the wood to metal. I think this has to do a grounding issue, but I could be wrong.
But yeah, you just need some self-tapping metal screws from a home improvement or pep boys or something to screw the amp directly to the metal (just make sure you're not bolting it to an exterior wall)
But yeah, you just need some self-tapping metal screws from a home improvement or pep boys or something to screw the amp directly to the metal (just make sure you're not bolting it to an exterior wall)
Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Bogart, GA
I mounted my amps on boards that I had Line-X treated. They bolt in to the rear wall that I Dynamated prior to mounting. I have a lot of detailed photos in my gallery that show step by step mounting of the amps, along with mounting of the head unit. There is also a gallery of upgrading the wiring to a "Big 4" system with an Optima Yellow top battery and a billet battery tray. To view the gallery, click on:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...cfm?gnum=10819
Make sure you use Dynamat or something similar....it really makes a difference! As others recommend, I would also use relays (see my photos) as remote turn on's for your amps and run 1/0 G wire to the frame for grounding everything.
Good luck!
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...cfm?gnum=10819
Make sure you use Dynamat or something similar....it really makes a difference! As others recommend, I would also use relays (see my photos) as remote turn on's for your amps and run 1/0 G wire to the frame for grounding everything.
Good luck!
I mounted my amps on boards that I had Line-X treated. They bolt in to the rear wall that I Dynamated prior to mounting. I have a lot of detailed photos in my gallery that show step by step mounting of the amps, along with mounting of the head unit. There is also a gallery of upgrading the wiring to a "Big 4" system with an Optima Yellow top battery and a billet battery tray. To view the gallery, click on:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...cfm?gnum=10819
Make sure you use Dynamat or something similar....it really makes a difference! As others recommend, I would also use relays (see my photos) as remote turn on's for your amps and run 1/0 G wire to the frame for grounding everything.
Good luck!
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...cfm?gnum=10819
Make sure you use Dynamat or something similar....it really makes a difference! As others recommend, I would also use relays (see my photos) as remote turn on's for your amps and run 1/0 G wire to the frame for grounding everything.
Good luck!
- NCSU
Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Bogart, GA
NCSU,
I do have more photos, but they don't show much more that what's in the gallery. If you look at the 2nd and 3rd photos, they show the underside of cab, with the 1/0G ground wire exiting the interior of the cab through the large grommet hole under the sill plate at the rear of the cab on the drivers side. I cut an "x" in the grommet and put the wire through it. To make the frame ground connection I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the angle bracket that supports the cab mount. If you look carefully you can see the mount with the rubber cab donut cushion. I also sealed the grommet with RTV. Note that this is for the grounding of the amps...the cab side of the 1/0G goes in to a knuconceptz ground distribution block...and the my amps are using 4G grounds to the block.
For the chassis ground for the big4, look at the last picture in the gallery. A 1/0G wire runs directly from the neg batt terminal down the right frame rail again to the angled bracket where the right front cab mount dougnut is located. This site also has an OEM braided wire ground already connected. I enlarged the factory hole to 1/4" and connected the batt ground to this point. I also ran the 1/0G engine ground from the starter directly to this same spot...so there are really 3 ground wires connected here...the factory braided wire and the neg batt and engine ground. I hope all these words aren't too confusing, but if you look a the pictures with this description in mind you'll get the jist of what was done. Good luck!
I do have more photos, but they don't show much more that what's in the gallery. If you look at the 2nd and 3rd photos, they show the underside of cab, with the 1/0G ground wire exiting the interior of the cab through the large grommet hole under the sill plate at the rear of the cab on the drivers side. I cut an "x" in the grommet and put the wire through it. To make the frame ground connection I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the angle bracket that supports the cab mount. If you look carefully you can see the mount with the rubber cab donut cushion. I also sealed the grommet with RTV. Note that this is for the grounding of the amps...the cab side of the 1/0G goes in to a knuconceptz ground distribution block...and the my amps are using 4G grounds to the block.
For the chassis ground for the big4, look at the last picture in the gallery. A 1/0G wire runs directly from the neg batt terminal down the right frame rail again to the angled bracket where the right front cab mount dougnut is located. This site also has an OEM braided wire ground already connected. I enlarged the factory hole to 1/4" and connected the batt ground to this point. I also ran the 1/0G engine ground from the starter directly to this same spot...so there are really 3 ground wires connected here...the factory braided wire and the neg batt and engine ground. I hope all these words aren't too confusing, but if you look a the pictures with this description in mind you'll get the jist of what was done. Good luck!
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NCSU,
I do have more photos, but they don't show much more that what's in the gallery. If you look at the 2nd and 3rd photos, they show the underside of cab, with the 1/0G ground wire exiting the interior of the cab through the large grommet hole under the sill plate at the rear of the cab on the drivers side. I cut an "x" in the grommet and put the wire through it. To make the frame ground connection I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the angle bracket that supports the cab mount. If you look carefully you can see the mount with the rubber cab donut cushion. I also sealed the grommet with RTV. Note that this is for the grounding of the amps...the cab side of the 1/0G goes in to a knuconceptz ground distribution block...and the my amps are using 4G grounds to the block.
For the chassis ground for the big4, look at the last picture in the gallery. A 1/0G wire runs directly from the neg batt terminal down the right frame rail again to the angled bracket where the right front cab mount dougnut is located. This site also has an OEM braided wire ground already connected. I enlarged the factory hole to 1/4" and connected the batt ground to this point. I also ran the 1/0G engine ground from the starter directly to this same spot...so there are really 3 ground wires connected here...the factory braided wire and the neg batt and engine ground. I hope all these words aren't too confusing, but if you look a the pictures with this description in mind you'll get the jist of what was done. Good luck!
I do have more photos, but they don't show much more that what's in the gallery. If you look at the 2nd and 3rd photos, they show the underside of cab, with the 1/0G ground wire exiting the interior of the cab through the large grommet hole under the sill plate at the rear of the cab on the drivers side. I cut an "x" in the grommet and put the wire through it. To make the frame ground connection I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the angle bracket that supports the cab mount. If you look carefully you can see the mount with the rubber cab donut cushion. I also sealed the grommet with RTV. Note that this is for the grounding of the amps...the cab side of the 1/0G goes in to a knuconceptz ground distribution block...and the my amps are using 4G grounds to the block.
For the chassis ground for the big4, look at the last picture in the gallery. A 1/0G wire runs directly from the neg batt terminal down the right frame rail again to the angled bracket where the right front cab mount dougnut is located. This site also has an OEM braided wire ground already connected. I enlarged the factory hole to 1/4" and connected the batt ground to this point. I also ran the 1/0G engine ground from the starter directly to this same spot...so there are really 3 ground wires connected here...the factory braided wire and the neg batt and engine ground. I hope all these words aren't too confusing, but if you look a the pictures with this description in mind you'll get the jist of what was done. Good luck!
- NCSU
Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Bogart, GA
The amp on the drivers side is an Alpine PDX 1-600 that drives a single 10" dual voice coil (set up for 2 ohm resistance. i.e., the coils are wired in parallel) Image Dynamics ID10D2 subwoofer. The ID10 is mounted in a SupercrewSound single F150 enclosure that mounts under the driver's side rear seat and is downfiring. I ran 8G wire from amp to the driver, and the parallel wiring is 8G as well. I mostly listen to rock, and this set up pumps way more than enough bass for me. The dynamat keeps thing from vibrating and gives rise to great SQ in the cab. I love this set up that I put together based on comments in this forum, and considering the price, it is great!