I don't know about the sub in question but the one thing that almost 10 years of high-end custom car audio has taught me is plenty of people underpower - or, more appropriately - miss-match their audio components. The number one reason is $$$.... a very close second is miss-information from people who have NFC.

Headlight dimming is no indication that he's running [true] 1000-watt RMS power to those subs alone. I'm assuming, if his subs are running at 1000-watt RMS, then his total system power output is significantly more than that because he needs to power his other drivers.

In fact, if he is running TRUE 1000-watt RMS through his vehicle, I can gaurantee you he'd be having more serious issues than just ****-poor headlight dims.

I've seen heads dim at right around true 250-watt RMS and above. Why? Two reasons: One is that OEM vehicle charging/operating systems, for the most part, are not designed for the amount of current draw that many AM car audio systems demand. Add a few other electronic components like lights, winches etc... and you have on your hands a real problem. Second, true 250-watt RMS or more can suck [demand] an amazing current draw from the vehicle's charging/operating system [see "one."]

For those who know about car audio, true 250-watt RMS is a sheet load of power in just about any vehicle.... considering that the pathway to the power source [correct cable gauge sizes, updated vehicle operating/charging system, output/input matched head and amp and other components, etc... ] is done correctly. However, very rarely will you see vehicles with amples of RMS power output wired and matched correctly for optimum performance. Nature of the beast...

If he did in fact have what you're claiming, a good clue would be more than just heads dimming. If the OP does claim he's running 1000-watt plus RMS to his system, and all he has is heads dimming, then I'm gonna' call horse dung. We'll see...

Like I said, a true 1000-watt RMS system, running through the vehicle's OEM electrical pathway will raise a lot more issues.

 

sorry grubrunner, styxnpics (i think i spelled it right) is right. i am runnin not quite but close to 1000 rms. runnin a tma t1000. gain is not cranked up tho. i deff wouldnt spend almost $400 on the sub & not use it. lol, guess this guy knows wat hes talkin bout but im plannin on runnin the bigger alt. should i run a 2nd battery too? i think i'll jus go thru trial & error

 

im not tryin to start up anything here, jus lookin for a lil help.

 

The specs on your amp are as follows -

Rated Power 14.5 V:500W x 1 @ 4 ohm
750W x 1 @ 2 ohm
1000W x 1 @ 1 ohm

Show me where it says it 1000W RMS?

Also, how are you running it at 1ohm? Howmany subs, what's their impedance, what's the wiring configuration? Just curious...

The amp costs about $300-$400, I highly doubt a true 1000W RMS amp would cost anywhere near that.

I'm also not trying to start a fued either, just passing on some of my knowledge from several years.

 

RE sx's are commonly sold with dual 2 Ohm voice coils

 

Okay, I didn't know that.

Thanks.

 

that tma t1000 is also fused with 3 35A fuses....

the manual also rates the amp as follows:

Amplifier Topology: Class D Monaural
Power Supply: PWM switching type, unregulated
Rated Power with less than 1% THD (14V supply):
400W RMS x 1 @ 4Ω
500W RMS x 1 @ 3Ω
700W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω
900W RMS x 1 @ 1.5Ω
1000W RMS x 1 @ 1Ω

 

ding ding ding, another score for styxnpics. it is a dual 2 ohm sub. and i also said in my post that im not runnin quite 1000 rms, but close to it. that TMA amp is deff worth the $ i paid for it, its not some ****ty lanzar amp or sumthin lol. im deff not the guy who can tell you everything bout car audio and by no means am i a pro. but i can install it. im more of a mechanical guy not a technical guy. i can research a lil tho. o well tho. back to the original question. i saw ur double battery setup styx, so after the alt upgrade do u think that'll b necessary?

 

does hifonics make good amps? i was lookin into gettin myself a couple of the Hifonics Brutus amps if so. thanks

 

damn, sux to keep postin in my own thread so much. o well. another thing, this "4000w" lanzar amp puts out some pretty nice RMS numbers (nowhere near 4000w). is this believable? class AB amp, i dont really pay attention to that. but for $165 i wanna buy 1 and try it out. wat u guys think?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...282.html#specs

 

Do you believe those specs, given the amp's price?

Just curious...

Do you believe those specs, given the amp's price?

Just curious...

 

I'm not sure about the current crop, but Hifonics use to make very, very good amps once-upon-a-time [pre 2000].

 

well, not really, but i looked on the actual lanzar website specs & thats wat it says. its kinda acceptable since they say its supposed to produce 4000w. im jus wonderin. i kinda wanna look into the hifonics amps

 

I hear what you're saying.

Oh, and for the record, I'm suppose to be a multi-millionaire by now...

 

lol. yea, but idk if its really worth it. i know it wont produce anywhere near 4000w, thats not wat i meant by supposed haha. thats rediculous. hopefully somebody will come across this thread & give some more feedback. otherwise, i guess i jus wont buy it