'04 Screw and 3 amps???

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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Big-Fokker's Avatar
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'04 Screw and 3 amps???

I've searched and seen pics of quite a few multi amp installs in these trucks, but yet have I run into anyone that has posted a multi amp setup in a Screw with the sliding rear window.
Has anyone seen or done this?

I got the seat off and here's what I see:




Some prime real estate is taken up by the sliding window motor and the alarm box thingy... I haven't looked closely at the alarm wiring, but I should be able to relocate that thing right?

Also, what do I use to mount the plywood to the wall? Is it as easy as simply using self tapping screws?

Thanks,
B-F
 

Last edited by Big-Fokker; Mar 13, 2008 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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If F150truckin can fit 4 large amps, some distro blocks, and a processor back there, im convinced you could easily fit 3 amps with the window motor.

Might take some time and a little "trial and error" to get it all to fit right, but it can be done.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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The BCM can be relocated. BUT DO NOT CUT INTO OR ADD EXTRA WIRE!!!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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I have the same configuration,After getting my seatback off and
a little closer inspection unless your using some big a$$ amps 3
should be no sweat.It's 4 that I'm gonna have to be extra
creative withWith moving the BCM a little bit I should be fine.


James
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 12:54 AM
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Thanks everyone...I saw the pics of F150's setup and he's got a wall to be reckoned with...but belive it or not, that little motor puts a cramp in my style back there. The motor itself is small, but the guide cables are what's in the way. The motor is maybe 5 or 6 inches wide, but the way the cables are mounted, you can't really put anything within another 6 inches on each side of the motor.
My plan is to mount ply, put the oem grey carpet/cover back on, and then mount the equipment to that. My amps aren't big. The two 150w amps are only about 14-16" long and the 300w is about 18 long.

BTW - I wanna thank Low_e_Red for pointing me to Knu for all my wiring Very inexpensive and some quality gear!

I just finished soldering my wiring harness and wiring the subs internally. Tomorrow I think I'll tackle running power, remote and RCA's....or maybe I'll go ahead and mess with mounting the amps...we'll see.

I'll try to get pics going along the way and post.

Question...does the "reverse wire" from the Z1 harness get connected to anything?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-******
Thanks everyone...I saw the pics of F150's setup and he's got a wall to be reckoned with...but belive it or not, that little motor puts a cramp in my style back there. The motor itself is small, but the guide cables are what's in the way. The motor is maybe 5 or 6 inches wide, but the way the cables are mounted, you can't really put anything within another 6 inches on each side of the motor.
My plan is to mount ply, put the oem grey carpet/cover back on, and then mount the equipment to that. My amps aren't big. The two 150w amps are only about 14-16" long and the 300w is about 18 long.

BTW - I wanna thank Low_e_Red for pointing me to Knu for all my wiring Very inexpensive and some quality gear!

I just finished soldering my wiring harness and wiring the subs internally. Tomorrow I think I'll tackle running power, remote and RCA's....or maybe I'll go ahead and mess with mounting the amps...we'll see.

I'll try to get pics going along the way and post.

Question...does the "reverse wire" from the Z1 harness get connected to anything?
No problem, Glad I could help.

The reverse wire is only necessary if you are adding a backup camera.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-******
Thanks everyone...I saw the pics of F150's setup and he's got a wall to be reckoned with...but belive it or not, that little motor puts a cramp in my style back there. The motor itself is small, but the guide cables are what's in the way. The motor is maybe 5 or 6 inches wide, but the way the cables are mounted, you can't really put anything within another 6 inches on each side of the motor.
My plan is to mount ply, put the oem grey carpet/cover back on, and then mount the equipment to that. My amps aren't big. The two 150w amps are only about 14-16" long and the 300w is about 18 long.

BTW - I wanna thank Low_e_Red for pointing me to Knu for all my wiring Very inexpensive and some quality gear!

I just finished soldering my wiring harness and wiring the subs internally. Tomorrow I think I'll tackle running power, remote and RCA's....or maybe I'll go ahead and mess with mounting the amps...we'll see.

I'll try to get pics going along the way and post.

Question...does the "reverse wire" from the Z1 harness get connected to anything?
Easy to do...

relocate the BCM to behide the driver side rear pillar cover, as to the motor cables, mounting MDF for the amp install is going to be on top of the cables, leaving the cables in the channel where they are...

also you can only if needed, redrill the motor mounting bracket and flip it up...some have done it on here, Brypink for one, may find a pic if you search...

myself, I had a power slider, (AKA, rattle trap) went to a solid glass... the center panel rattles and also it so easy to break in a truck with one of these power sliders....I'm a Master Autoglass Installer and can't tell how many I've replaced for a breakin... its so easy, I will not even post how to do it...!!!!
and you would not even break the glass doing either....
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:39 AM
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haha the ONE thing I HAD to have when I bought my XLT was a solid back glass..... you have no clue how hard it was to find a 05 red xlt with two tone flint interior... 5.4L 3.73LS outfit that DIDNT have a rear slider.. side steps, bug deflector or two tone
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by styxnpicks
haha the ONE thing I HAD to have when I bought my XLT was a solid back glass..... you have no clue how hard it was to find a 05 red xlt with two tone flint interior... 5.4L 3.73LS outfit that DIDNT have a rear slider.. side steps, bug deflector or two tone
I bet it was even harder for me to find a loaded FX2 without any upgraded stereo, no sirius, or sliding window. But had to have the rev sensors, step bars, color matched everything, leather, 5.4, 3.73 LS, and no TC. (After order date ended.)
 

Last edited by Low_e_Red; Mar 16, 2008 at 05:11 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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From: mobile, Al
for those interested, some 1/8 inch high density foam tape on the slider track eliminates the rattles. installed that over 1 1/2 year ago.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Okay in an attempt top not let this one get hi-jacked like most do... , the power run was pretty simple once I made up my mind to go ahead and go down the drivers side. I bought an amp install kit from Knu that has a 17' power cable and while I thought it wouldn't make it..it did! I managed to go from the batt to the back wall where the BCM is with that 17' length.

I'm now running my RCA's and while the passenger side door jamb trough looks pretty easy, it's filled with small colored cables. I'm sure others have used this rount with their RCA's, but there's RED colored cable in there and that's power right?
I'm trying to go straight down the middle of the cab, but without a snake it's kicking my a**!

I'll check back in later...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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Any more pics?How about some wire pics?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-******
Okay in an attempt top not let this one get hi-jacked like most do... , the power run was pretty simple once I made up my mind to go ahead and go down the drivers side. I bought an amp install kit from Knu that has a 17' power cable and while I thought it wouldn't make it..it did! I managed to go from the batt to the back wall where the BCM is with that 17' length.

I'm now running my RCA's and while the passenger side door jamb trough looks pretty easy, it's filled with small colored cables. I'm sure others have used this rount with their RCA's, but there's RED colored cable in there and that's power right?
I'm trying to go straight down the middle of the cab, but without a snake it's kicking my a**!

I'll check back in later...
Actually Green/Purple is normally 12+ in Ford vehicles...

Why go to the drivers side with power...? Its a longer run. Requires more cable and more length for a Voltage drop?!? SHORTEST IS BEST (with few exceptions)
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 09:26 AM
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I agree with Low on the pass side power wire run and my RCA's are run to pass side, up "A" pillar, along head liner edge, dropped down from around rear window.... at the rear, you will need to trim a grove in the hard foam on the back side of the head liner for the wire to lay in... if not they will hold the head liner down some....
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Yeah the pass. side for power would have been the shortest and best route, but I couldn't find a hole to use on that side. Add the fact that I didn't feel comfortable making my own either!

I had the laptop in the garage with me and did a search and found a write up on running it down the drivers side. Halfway through I thought I'd need more cable, but it landed perfectly back there.

RCA's ended up going down the pass. side in the door channel. 5 meter cables from Knu as well. Today I plan on either yanking the doors/installing components and running wire - or - working on the rear wall. The wall work requires the saw and last night me and some friends managed to polish off 2 kegs of Yuengling...so I'm not really feeling like cranking up the saw today.

Hallertau - here go a few shots for you:
This shows the 1ga power going through the firewall. You can see the grommet if you follow the cable from the left to the hole in the wall, it's the round disk halfway there. Be sure to get the grommet on the cable before you put it up into the tray to go over to the battery...ask me how I know...at the top of the pic on the right there is a thin blue wire, that's what I used to fish since I forgot to bring a snake home from work. That shows you the location of the tray that you use to go from the batt to the hole in the firewall.


This shows the power in the tray and going to the batt. That fuse holder is huge..!


Here's where the power cable enters the truck. There is already something coming out of that hole, so when you start fishing through the firewall, it makes it easy to find your wire. From the engine side, you just need to fish your wire down and to the left a little...or was it right...?
From there I tucked it behind the carpet and zip tied it to the emergency brake cable jacket.


Here it is running down into the door channel...
 
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