Amp power issues - 06 f150


I have a 200watt amp behind my seat. I ran all the wires myself, but had best buy splice in a "new harness" with RCA's in it. I have an optima blue top, and it has the standard battery posts, then two additional posts for +/-. I ran the power to the extra positive post. I have the negative grounded off in the cab floor (big bolt somewhere.)

A few months ago, my left headlight popped. It also blew the fuse for the headlight, and for some reason blew the in-line fuse for my amp. Took it to the dealership because I didn't wanna mess with it. They got it all fixed. I replaced the fuse for my amp and it worked great.

Until I put a cigarette lighter in the cigarette lighter socket (geez, silly of me.) This ended up popping that fuse, as well as the in-line amp fuse again. I replaced both, and the amp worked for a while. Now it's not working again - popped in-line amp fuse. The fuse on the actual amp has yet to have any problems (I guess that's good.)

Mind you, I'm using 8 gauge wire for 200 watts - plenty. Plus, I'm using 60 watt fuses in both the amp and for the in-line. The in-line amp fuse is about 4 inches from the battery, which should be close enough, clearly it's working. All the factory fuses are the right specs so there shouldn't be an issue there. To my knowledge all the truck fuses are fine.

I'm confused as to why every time something pops, my amp pops when it's completely isolated AND insulated. And now it's just popping to annoy me.

Thanks

 

What did your dealer fix when you took it to them?


It sounds to me like maybe you have a problem elsewhere, with your trucks electrical system...(regulation)...just kind of a first thought without knowing a whole lot...

A little odd though.

 

Odd... double check your pos wire... make sure its kink free or scratch free... Maybe its coincidental.... I have no clue... Also check your harness... IDK what that would do except the remote is tapped into the ignition...? Sorry brotha. I have nothing.

 

When I took it in they checked and replaced any fuses that were blown. They said it was just the LH Headlight fuse.

As for the switch, it's wired to come on with the radio, (wired into the new harness best buy made me.) I haven't had any issues with the radio though. I guess I need to just take the power wire out and check it. I guess it could be arching somewhere.

 

I seen probs like this with the remote wire causing probs with fuses (caused by what I think is the acc delay receiving power from the remote off the amp when off) I would grab the remote turn on from elsewhere..maybe fused at the ign harness from the acc, that way your REMOTE is "isolated" (all w/in the same 12v system) as well! I'd move the ground too. also for chets and giggles check where the amp is mounted to make sure wires weren't in the vicinity of mounting screws, check where the power wire was run into your cab to make sure that stock wires weren't damaged during the run. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info. I'm probably going to use a toggle switch for my amp. that's what I've always done in the past and it seems to be the least trouble some. Time to take the seats back out and start over. Woo hoo!

 

Thats a start I guess. I honestly havent the slightest idea really.