Has anyone done the BIG 3 upgrade on their F150's?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Has anyone done the BIG 3 upgrade on their F150's?

Big 3 defined as:

* Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)
* Battery Negative to Chassis
* Chassis to Engine Block

This involves upgrades to stock wiring to 1/0 to help combat dimming and voltage drops.

Anyone do this on their trucks?
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 04:11 PM
  #2  
TXhustla's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
I was wondering the same. Which post does it go into @ alternator(2004)???
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #3  
scsmitty78's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Originally Posted by SSpiro
Big 3 defined as:

* Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)
* Battery Negative to Chassis
* Chassis to Engine Block

This involves upgrades to stock wiring to 1/0 to help combat dimming and voltage drops.

Anyone do this on their trucks?
I have all the stuff to do it but I havent got it done yet.
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:40 PM
  #4  
Impact9's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
I got a 250A Alternator on the way. I've done 1 of the 3 so far. I ran a new 0/4 gauge wire from the 125A factory alternator to the battery. Tomorrow when I swap my amps I'll go ahead and run my 0/4 battery ground wire. Don't really see a need to ground the chassis from the engine block unless someone can convince me otherwise.
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #5  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Wondering if I should do this or not..

120-125 amp draw..?
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #6  
Impact9's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
My current setup is right at 1600w and I can't turn it up 75% without badly dimming the headlights. Toss on my 150w KC Daylighters, PIAA Fogs, and Silverstars and I'm running a serious power deficit. My poor factory alternator is trying but just can't pump out the electrons I want. Most people I've seen just do the main 2 and if that don't help move up to a bigger alternator.
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #7  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
How much is an upgraded alternator?

I wonder if I shouldn't just do an upgraded alternator with a blue top or yellow top battery.

I haven't installed anything yet, so not sure where I'll sit anyway. I guess i'll wait until I'm setup..
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:52 PM
  #8  
ONE04FX4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 797
Likes: 1
From: houston
Talking

i have upgraded mine to 4 guage stereo cables. i did the battery positive and negative to the starter. the ground goes to the starter body mount to the block. i also did the ground that goes to the frame in the passenger front wheelwell. and i did the alternater to battery. remember that when you remove the alt to battery cable there is a little sense wire in there that will need to be reused or the battery light will come on. right now i have them going to a distribution block on the batery cover till i get my optima yellow top.
 
Reply
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 09:18 PM
  #9  
Impact9's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by SSpiro
How much is an upgraded alternator?

I wonder if I shouldn't just do an upgraded alternator with a blue top or yellow top battery.

I haven't installed anything yet, so not sure where I'll sit anyway. I guess i'll wait until I'm setup..
Mine is a custom job by www.excessiveamperage.com. I contacted Nate throught the realmofexcursion.com forums. Gave me a good deal at $400 for a 250A. I went with a red top since 90% of the time I am driving around when playing my stereo. So far it's working out. My alternator should be here mid next week. i'll post the results soon as I get it installed.
 
Reply
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:10 PM
  #10  
Bartak1's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,760
Likes: 4
From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by Impact9
Don't really see a need to ground the chassis from the engine block unless someone can convince me otherwise.

Thats your alternators ground...You should upgrade that. When your truck is running you have all those amps running through the big wire you upgraded from the alt to the battery, then the battery to the amplifiers, then from the chassis to that LITTTLE factory 10 gauge or whatever it is wire from your frame to your block. Its a bottleneck.

SSpiro, you can wait to see if you want to do it, but Im betting you will endup wanting to do it. 1500 watts here and I do get some slight dimmage. Im guessing your going to be right around the line for needing it though. Its just that much better for your electrical system if you do.
 
Reply
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #11  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Wish I had some hands-on knowledgable friends that lived local..

I'm "handy" with 12v stuff, but get nervous when I have to pop the hood.
 
Reply
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:50 PM
  #12  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by ONE04FX4
i have upgraded mine to 4 guage stereo cables. i did the battery positive and negative to the starter. the ground goes to the starter body mount to the block. i also did the ground that goes to the frame in the passenger front wheelwell. and i did the alternater to battery. remember that when you remove the alt to battery cable there is a little sense wire in there that will need to be reused or the battery light will come on. right now i have them going to a distribution block on the batery cover till i get my optima yellow top.
What size tubing did you get?
 
Reply
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:45 PM
  #13  
Impact9's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by Bartak1
Thats your alternators ground...You should upgrade that. When your truck is running you have all those amps running through the big wire you upgraded from the alt to the battery, then the battery to the amplifiers, then from the chassis to that LITTTLE factory 10 gauge or whatever it is wire from your frame to your block. Its a bottleneck.
So there's no other routes in the engine except through that 10 gauge wire? I was figuring that grounds outweighed the power. I'll have to climb under there and gander some more. Soon as I get these bookselfs built and out of the garage.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:42 AM
  #14  
ONE04FX4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 797
Likes: 1
From: houston
Talking

Originally Posted by SSpiro
What size tubing did you get?
if i remeber correctly it is all 1/2 inch tubing.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #15  
SSpiro's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Anyone in Tampa area?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:44 PM.