Help hooking up amp and sub
Help hooking up amp and sub
I just received my single 10" from music moose with a Kicker CVR for my 04 SCrew. I also purchased the kicker KX450.2 amp.
I am a definite newbie when it comes to car audio. I do have a much more experienced friend that is going to help me with the install but if anyone can give me some tips or instructions on what to do and not to do it would be greatly appreciated.
I really wanted to mount the sub under one of the front seats but I think this thing is too big so I think I will have to mount it behind the rear seat.
The sub has dual voice coils and is already mounted and wired in the box, courtesy of musicmoose. I was told that it was wired to 8 ohms so I would have to run my amp bridged and at 4 ohms. This is the stuff that I completely do not understand. Also do I need anything else to hook this stuff up to my factory stereo?
Please help, I am a little bit intimidated.
reply
Yah so when you bridge it your gonna hook the positive on one and of the 4 channels, with the negative on the other end of the four channels...Now Not to confuse you but if your sub is a dual voice coil you want to run your sub in parallel, this is gonna be louder and is the best way to hook it up...all u have to do is take the sub outta the box, and get some speaker wire (if this is not done already) and run a speaker wire from one positive voice coil to the other, and one speaker wire to one negative voice coil to the other..like an X shape... Other than that if u can wire the amp and **** ok u should be good to go...anything else u need??
You do not want to run that sub in parallel on that amp. If musicmoose wired it to 8 ohms, it is a dual voice coil sub with dual 4 ohm voice coils. If you wire it in parallel, then you will have a final load of 2 ohm. The Kicker 450.2 is not designed to run bridged @ 2 ohm. Only at 4 ohms. You really do not have the best sub amp combo for max power. To get the most power you could run each voice coil to its own amp channel. That would give you 150 watts per coil or 300 watts total. The amp is capable of 450 x 1 @ 4ohms and with your sub, you can not achieve that. I would either run it at 8 ohms bridged or run one voice coil to each channel. You may get away with running it parallel but, Kicker does not recommend it on that amp.
Pretty much what Dconder said. I would just keep it wired the way it is in the box, and hook it to your amp bridged.
I would guesstimate youd be sending it around 250-300ish watts, which actuall is about perfect for that sub.
On the outputs for the amp, you will probably see the word "bridge" and some arrows or something coming from the word pointing at the Left channel +, and the Right channel -. This is where you want to connect the wires. The positive wire on the left channels positive, and the negative on the right channels negative.
I would guesstimate youd be sending it around 250-300ish watts, which actuall is about perfect for that sub.
On the outputs for the amp, you will probably see the word "bridge" and some arrows or something coming from the word pointing at the Left channel +, and the Right channel -. This is where you want to connect the wires. The positive wire on the left channels positive, and the negative on the right channels negative.
Thanks for the help guys. I was also told by one of the local shops that there was some sort of converter that I would have to purchase in order to use my factory stereo, is this true? I believe it was so we could use the low inputs on the amp.
Sorry for all of the newbie questions but I really do appreciate the help.
Thanks again.
Jason
Sorry for all of the newbie questions but I really do appreciate the help.
Thanks again.
Jason
Yes, they were talking about a Line Output Converter (LOC) It taps into the speaker wires from the HU and turns that signal into a low level signal (RCA's)
Should cost around 20 bucks give or take a little.
Should cost around 20 bucks give or take a little.


