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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 10:08 AM
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amp help

Just order my re 8's (175 rms 250 max) I have a qlogic custom box to go under my rear seat in my 99 supercab.I have an alpine 9827 hu and looking for best amp to power my subs.Tring to spend less than 400 bucks any help appreciated thanks.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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What's your impedence on that sub? (4 ohms, 8 ohms, etc.)
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 01:00 PM
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The new ones are dual 4 ohms.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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If that's the case, you should probably do this:

Each speaker has 4 posts (2x(+), 2x(-))

Get a 4-channel bridgeable amp that you can bridge to 1 channels at 4 ohms.

On the amp, hook the positive to one positive lead on both speaker and the negative to the mated negative on both speakers. Tie the other positive and negative together on each speaker.

Or, you can get a 1-ohm mono stable class D amp.

 

Last edited by ieee_raider; Jul 23, 2004 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 11:35 PM
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Hey whats up guys dupuis thanks for the help in the past yeah i just oredered my re's.I like the info you guys have thrown at me so far thank you.Question I am planning on replacing my factory speakers as well and amping them as well I found at my local circuit city an mtx 5 channel 4405 250watts by 2 and 300 by one .I can get this from a buddy that works there for a 100 bucks (last one on clearance) what do think something I should do or wrong direction.Thanks guys
 
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 12:56 AM
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Sounds like a good deal, but I'm afraid your amp might be underpowered on the fifth channel (for the sub).

Also, would you wire your fronts and backs in parallel to reach the 2 ohm load or your lefts and rights?
Basically, with that configuration, you'd have to pair them one way or the other, so you could lose fade / balance capability that would normally carry through on your amp pre-outs from your HU.

I'm afraid you might be misled though, because according to the owner's guide on MTX's website, the sub channel can only go as low as 2 ohms, not 1.

Here are the ratings @ 14.4V:
65Wx4 @ 4 ohms
125Wx4 @ 2ohms
250W bridged x2 @ 4 ohms

Sub:
150W x 1 @ 4 ohms
300W x 1 @ 2 ohms

Given that information, the amp couldn't come near being able to power your subs when run in a 1-ohm stable configuration.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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Thanks that is what I needed to know.My main concern is not starving the subs I can fix the rest later thank u
 
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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There seems to be some insinuation that a sub MUST be fed its rated RMS power to be effective. In other words a sub rated to handle 250 watts RMS must be driven by an amp of that capability in order to produce a reasonable output. That is not true. The simple fact that a sub will handle a given amount of power continuously does not mean you must give it that power continuously in order to have tremendous performance.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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That is true, no need to give them full RMS unless you are buying an amp just the them. Than I would get one that gives them more. I know you hopes are high after hearing all of us talk about them and I would go with more then 75 watts at 4 ohm each to get the most out of them. but if that's the amp you going with they would still be fine with 75 watts each. I know of someone running 75 watts to them and they do fine, but he's running 18 of them.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 12:45 AM
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Well, the fact is that most amp compaines inflate their numbers.
So, if you buy to match, you're still underwpowering your subs.

You should always have an amp with a higher RMS rating than your sub. Long term sub damage is more often a result of under-powering than over-powering. While matching is not of dire importance, having ample power is.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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I agree it is better to have more than needed power. But when this is done, the user must use the system properly. I know of a guy who competed with a system that included 7 bridged amps capable of 1000 watts RMS each. Each amp drove a single speaker, including tweeters, none of which was rated at more than 100 watts RMS. And a clarification on the underpowering thing. It's more involved than simply underpowering. It will involve user abuse, which will usually come from driving an amp of poor to mediocre quality into clipping the signal to the speaker. And this situation can occur even with properly matched pieces if the user abuses the volume ****, and drives the amp beyond its capabilities.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 03:06 PM
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tru dat.
 
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