Hey all-

So I bought my 2018 5.0L screw in Feb, and now have put 4k on it. With oil coming up, I wanted to go through and see anything I needed to mention to the dealer, since I also put the 5y/60k extension on the coverage. I checked air filter since it has been high pollen, and lo and behold the P.O. had put a K&N washable oiled filter in it, and the dealer left it in there. Also, I am joining the club in oil consumption since I am a quart low after 4k.

Without going into the whole battle of what filters are best, the truck has been driving great so I am inclined to just buy a cleaning/charge kit for the K&N and roll with it- thoughts? My larger concern was getting any guff from the dealer about voiding any coverage even though they are the ones that sold it that way- I have no proof since I didn't check the air filter when I bought the vehicle. I used K&Ns when I drove turbocharged BMWs as they were great, but not sure that it really is necessary on this normally aspirated setup.

As for the oil consumption, I am going to definitely mention this to the dealer to get it on the record. Which leads to my next question:

Catch Can? The truck only had 29k on it when I bought it, so it has a lot of life left, and I plan on driving it as long as I can, so I am wondering if adding the catch can setup (as I understand, a single can setup on the passenger side is all that is needed) will help keep things a bit cleaner and be gentler on the exhaust components- 1+QT over 4k is a lot of oil, in my experience.

Any comments would be appreciated. Love the truck, and with the reading/learning I have done, the oil consumption seems to be a known thing, possibly related to how the cylinder walls are lined that impacts the rings bedding in, as well as a re-flash to modify how the butterfly throttle body behaves.....we will see!

thanks

 

1. Toss the K&N, put a dry filter in it. Oiled filters can foul the MAF.

2. A quart in 4k is not excessive.

 

I will have to do a visual check, but it was my understanding that my generation of Coyote uses a speed density system, and not a mass air flow sensor- Am I wrong?

 

I believe you are correct. Rock Auto lists a MAP but not a MAF for your truck.

A good dry paper filter does filter better than a K&N. A Motorcraft filter is only about 12 bucks at Rock Auto, more like $20 at retail.

 

I have the identical truck purchased with 28k miles.
It passed oil as well, but I never addressed the issue with the dealer because I did not believe what was being done at the dealer level would correct the oil passage issue.
Without going into the whole operation on my vehicle, I came to the collusion the problem was piston ring seal causing 2 pathes to exist into the combustion process and out the exhaust.
One, poor Ring seal causing excessive crank case pressure forcing more oil mist out the PCV and back into the intake.
Two, poor ring seal allowing oil past the oil ring and upper compression rings.
Both end up in the same place and is not good for the Ox Sensor or CATS.
The good news is at 59k miles and now 63k+ the rings have seated, and engine passes no more oil plus power is up and fuel mileage has benefited.
I would say, don't expect any worthwhile result from a dealer on oil passage issue when the root cause is Ring seal.
It will take a lot of miles to the break-in point so expect it. Qt of oil now and then should not be a big concern.
There are reasons why.
As for oil catch can, you really don't need one. Oil is leaving the crank case and may end up in the can does not fix the root cause.
Further, you may hear a lot of engine noises that are more or less normal for these engines>>but now after my break-in period, the engine has gone almost silent for those noises and the oil used is the recommended mc 5w20 Blend.
Lastly, I recommend NOT using full Synthetic oils >>before break-in occurs<< because that oil will prolong ring seating time. Not saying the oil is no good, but not for break-in use.
A real live firsthand account.
Good luck.

 

Thx Bluegrass- this is great info - I've since read a bit more about the engine not fully breaking in until 50k+ so your experience is reassuring. I am not necessarily concerned with the consumption, just that I've not owned a vehicle in a long time that consumed that much. The catch can was not to fix the issue, rather to keep the oil from gunking up the intakes/valves, given the introduction of (at least partial) direct injection. I also will be breaking my normal use of M1 Synthetic and staying with the MC 5w20 that it ships with.

Its funny you mention the sounds/noises- I have noticed that as well, so I will pay attention as I get some more miles on it.

Thanks for the info/feedback!