Play on words, but after 5 years and it looks like demand is low enough to not warrant a bias differential or other diff. type for the truck Super 8 differential.

Is it engineering problems or is this 8 ring gear low in numbers via production?

From Eaton, btw: Hello Mike,
Thank you for your interest in this differential application. However, at this time there are no current public plans to develop this application.

Powertrax response: Mike, I`m sorry, we do not offer a posi unit for the F150 trucks with Super 8.8.

Yukon offers a Mustang trak loc and modifies it for the F150, but who wants the ole S spring clutch pack in there?

 

I have a Roush with the Elock. Useless to me. I need a LS swap. I plan on tracking my truck and don't need a one wheel peel. Looking for a reliable swap.

 

I went ahead and bought the Yukon unit i mentioned in my salvo, and i plan on installing it this Saturday. It has 3 clutches on each side with the traditional Mustang S spring pinning the side gears.

The cross-pin bolt was installed in the carrier with thread locker. I could tell something was up and was afraid of snapping it,so i put a very small torch on the thread area on the diff case for a few seconds while trying the back it out at the same time, and it loosened up quickly. It was green thread locker - but you never know here.

I might post some pictures of the install, if anyone is interested in that.
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No one seems to have the right carrier bearings. I sent the National A 36 set back to Amazon. Napa has the same old 8.8 bearing set listed, also.

What i did was i found ST 5183 bearings by Koyo, the ones Ford uses in the Super 8 and bypassed Ford; Advanced Auto had them for 66 for the pair vs X2 for the Blue Oval set.

The diff measurement was right at 2 inches on my caliper. The ones that i sent back for the old carrier was a 1/4" smaller thereabouts. (I didn't break the plastic seal on the pack for an accurate measurement.)

I also bought the Super 8 ring gear bolts on Ebay. They are longer than the old 8.8's and are torque to yield bolts, meaning they are a one-time use: 45 ft lbs, then a 90* turn on the torque wrench.

I also bought a reusable diff gasket but not the Lube Locker, they don't have it for this 8.8. It was a pain to find, like everything else for this.I reckon the only thing that could go wrong is the C-clips won't go in. They machine the diff for that, but i'll find out when i get to that point. I did count the splines at 34, so that part is right.

 

Do you mean they machine the carrier for the c clips to slide?

 

I too prefer the conventional traction lock unit to an e locker. It works automatically when needed and you never have to think about it. My experience with them is that they are extremely reliable if you don't abuse it by stomping on the throttle when only one wheel has great traction. If you rock climb or if you are an idiot, a locker is for you. When I pass a vehicle in the rain, it locks up to keep me from spinning out.

I put over a hundred thousand miles on a hot rod Chevelle in the 60's with an eaton posi with no problems and that included lots of drag racing. My 2000F150 had 170k miles on it when I lost track of it and the TC still worked fine. My current truck has 163k miles on it and the TC still works like new. That is one reason that I would strongly consider a RAM if I bought a new truck. You can still get a limited slip rear in those and I think you can in a Tundra too.

 

I'm thinking about going this route. What do you guys think?

 

Re: evo ....why not....^

My motive for the mod is that I work construction and i travel a lot, and job sites are mostly sand in my part of the Midwest. After 41k miles of driving with the truck, I've been stuck more times than i can remember, some being caught in a snow storm and in remote places. Once, i had to take traction control off just to get out, and the truck spun the easy wheel wildly on ice, and i managed to rock it out. Otherwise the engine power is severely restricted with TC - no go anywhere here.

Recently i did buy a set tire chains on Ebay, for a good price.

Next year I''l go for All Terrain tires, too.

Re: Roadie.... I actually thought about retrofitting a Ford E locker but the idea of drilling the differential and buying an aftermarket wiring harness ( Eaton), plus the cost would be around a 1000, and a couple days of work. And like you mentioned, you are ''open'' until you need it.

 

I'd like to see some pics of your install.

 

Will do .....

It's just going to be a carrier swap so backlash checks before and after, and if it's at the upper limit, I''l bring it down to.007 or .008 with shims and check the gear pattern if i tighten it up.

I have my old shims from a Truetrac install from 10 years ago on my '02 F150, so i can post a photo of the size difference, side by side rather than shoot out numbers.

Plus the reusable diff gasket & part number.
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I'll heat up the bearings and they will drop right on the carrier. On my Truetrac they dropped right on it and completely seated at 250*

I did the ring gear that way too, rather than draw it up with bolts.

Alrighty, be posting again in the near future .....

 

I started the ball rolling on my Eloc swap to LS. If all goes well it should be in Tues then shipped to me and I'm having a Mustang Performance Shop do the install on mine.
What's the min and max backlash specs on the ring and pinion?

 

When i did the Truetrac install i bought a new gearset too, Ford Motorsport, and it was stated to be no closer than .007 and .012 was the upper #.
Eaton states .008/.012 on their stuff.

Gears heat and expand so they will bind if you set it up wrong, or you stress the gears on coast and drive if too much backlash via hitting back and forth hard.

If you start at the upper limit, with the usual wear and tear miles being stacked up on it, it grows wider, and now somewhere down the line you are outside of what they recommend.

 

Mine should be well within specs(hopefully). I have less than 600 mi on it.

 

It's in and runnin fine, but not sure if i'm happy about this.

It was not a drop in diff. The cross-pin butted into the axles and it required thinner C-clips, plus i had to file the cross pin to create a little axle endplay, otherwise i would have to take more off the C clips.

500 bucks for this unit, and i'm not sure if this was mixed up with a Mustang differential for non C-clip installation. The box was stamped with right part #, though.

Pictures:

 

The carrier I'm getting is a modified super 8.8 mustang. The modification is for the c clips so they fit without filing them which weakens them and gives too much end play in the axles. But my E-loc is a super 8.8. what year is your truck. Did it start out as a Super 8.8? I don't know when they started the Super 8.8.

 

You can via a visual by looking at the Diff covers x 12 bolt and symetrical for the Super vs 9.75 asymetrical covers: only 2 offerings for the 1/2 ton.... Axles no longer have a tag, and your are lucky if the sticker/decal wrap on the axle holds up with time: mine = 8.8 off decal.... Old 8.8 was 10 bolt x cover, pre '15.

Truck is '18, bought it new in July.