2011 Ecoboost to 2013 turbos, problems with boost? cutting throttle, dying?
2011 Ecoboost to 2013 turbos, problems with boost? cutting throttle, dying?
Hi all. I have a 2011 F150 ecoboost and I put in 2013 full race turbos, a wagner intercooler, single blow off valve, etc. The 2011s obviously had a BOV on each turbo, where the 2013 Style has a single on the intercooler (which I relocated to the aftermarket charge pipe)
Put in the MPT Base tune, and things seemed to be running fine, except a couple problems. When we first put everything together and the tune on, the charge pipe from the lower intercooler to the throttle body kept blowing off. So I super clamped it on there, and now I'm having a different issue.
The shop that did the install tapped both turbos for a boost signal. As soon as the truck builds a few PSI, it immediately cuts out and throttles off. It almost feels like its sensing overboosting and then cutting the throttle immediately. Then after cutting out it'll stall at stop lights until I cycle the ignition once or twice.
The shop says they think its from twin boost controllers and the single blow off. Like both controllers trying to do 1 job? Two cotnrollers telling 1 valve what to do. They said both controllers are tee'd to the new single blow off valve.
Also, maybe the intercooler is clogged? Coils or plugs bad (they were new plugs, gapped properly, I think.) There still are no check engine lights either. I have a very good scanner at work, and am going to scan all systems. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Put in the MPT Base tune, and things seemed to be running fine, except a couple problems. When we first put everything together and the tune on, the charge pipe from the lower intercooler to the throttle body kept blowing off. So I super clamped it on there, and now I'm having a different issue.
The shop that did the install tapped both turbos for a boost signal. As soon as the truck builds a few PSI, it immediately cuts out and throttles off. It almost feels like its sensing overboosting and then cutting the throttle immediately. Then after cutting out it'll stall at stop lights until I cycle the ignition once or twice.
The shop says they think its from twin boost controllers and the single blow off. Like both controllers trying to do 1 job? Two cotnrollers telling 1 valve what to do. They said both controllers are tee'd to the new single blow off valve.
Also, maybe the intercooler is clogged? Coils or plugs bad (they were new plugs, gapped properly, I think.) There still are no check engine lights either. I have a very good scanner at work, and am going to scan all systems. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
If you didn't change the diverter valve logic then that very well could be the problem. Also, are your wastegates hooked up correctly? Your truck will throw a CEL if it detects an over or underboost condition.
Also, why are you monitoring the boost pressure off each turbo? The boost gauge typically measures intake manifold pressure.
Also, why are you monitoring the boost pressure off each turbo? The boost gauge typically measures intake manifold pressure.
After thinking more...
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
After thinking more...
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
After thinking more...
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
What do you mean by twin boost controllers? The factory set up has an electronically controlled valve with two ports on it, each port feeds a diverter valve. They are used to dump pressure when you lift off the throttle to relieve pressure on the turbine blades. If they're hooked up wrong you could be dumping boost as soon as you start to build it. That would possibly cause it to act like it is.
Trying to correct all the incorrectly ran vacuum lines. Trying to tee off the vacumm chamber on the pass side of the firewall for the single BOV on the previous 2011 setup. Do you know how it runs and builds boost and how the bov operates when connected to this? Or where I should be getting the manifold vacuum line to run to the BOV?


