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I'm reaching out for some hopefully simple suggestions. I have a 2009 F150 XLT with the 4.6L engine. Based on the various threads both here and out on the web, I am experiencing the dreaded IWE grinding issue. I am picking up a new solenoid today to see if that resolves the issue. If not, I will then begin the potentially long journey of troubleshooting. I've read several threads full of great information. I've even read that it is possible to bypass the solenoid so that you can drive the truck without doing further damage. If the solenoid does not resolve, I will wish to bypass until I can investigate further.
This brings me to my question. I've searched high and low for this solenoid and discovered that on my truck it appears to be on the passenger side attached to a box on the front fan. I assume the box is the reservoir because there is a vacuum line running to it.
Attaching a photo of what I'm looking at. One thread suggested to "disconnect the vacuum line" and cap it allowing one to drive the vehicle with the hubs engaged but no 4x4 so nothing is damaged. But...
which of these might you disconnect? Is it all? Is it any? Any thoughts? And is the general consensus that this solution is a successful alternative to fixing it (at least for a few weeks)?
Thank you for the input! I'll look at capping off at the wheel as an alternative. I've read through that thread a few times over the last few days and it's a really good read!
Remember that if you cap them off at the IWE, it will (unless it's really messed up) try to lock up. That will mean that the axle shaft(s) will turn. As long as the transfer case is not engaged though, you should be fine for a bit.
I ran for a bit with capping them off at the IWE (at the wheel). Also ran a bit by pulling the top to hoses in the photo above and just taping them off. Both worked as expected. The grinding was halted, the axle spun all as expected. Great temp fix.
I've just installed a new actuator on the passenger side after using the extremely helpful information in the threads to locate vacuum lose at the actuator. Fingers crossed it solves it.
Last edited by ckeiner; Mar 7, 2017 at 04:21 PM.
Reason: Forgot half my stuff.
Did you test for leaks? For $10 I would swap out the check valve, or valves.
Hey there ruffin-it!
I did. And I hope that the testing was accurate. I used the thread below as a guide. First step raised the red flag. The DR's side actuator would hold vacuum just fine; however the pass side couldn't even build up vacuum to register no matter how hard I pumped the thing. This was good news because I'm confident this is the side the noise was coming from. I also did the tire spin test on both sides. Driver side a-ok. Passenger side would start to slowly grind and try to engage the half shaft. So... replaced the actuator. That said, for good measure, I did test the remainder of the vacuum system and found that everything held it's own. I sure hope it's just this actuator giving a fit.
I should know more next week. I still have it jacked up because when doing this project, I found one of the lug nuts completely tattered. So I'm waiting for a new one to arrive Friday before I can put everything back together and get it out for a test run.
I ran for a bit with capping them off at the IWE (at the wheel). Also ran a bit by pulling the top to hoses in the photo above and just taping them off. Both worked as expected. The grinding was halted, the axle spun all as expected. Great temp fix.
I've just installed a new actuator on the passenger side after using the extremely helpful information in the threads to locate vacuum lose at the actuator. Fingers crossed it solves it.
Could you show a picture of which lines to disconnect and cap off? This thread was very helpful after the dealer told me I'd be 500 some dollars to fix..
