I've done my FAIR share of google searches and I've got nothing in stone. I want to know what a stall converter does out of curiosity. I undestand the basics but what gains would I get from it? I own a 2012 crew cab with the 5.0L in it. 2.5" leveling kit. And I'm running 35x12.50. I've done a resonator delete and put a KO series flowmaster on with stock exit.
With all that said. My main goal is to wake up this sluggish 5.0 as much as I can starting at the lower end priced mods first. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Sounds like you need either lower gears or a tuner. Unfortunately a low priced mod probably isn't going to solve your issue.

 

Your sluggish is the drive by wire throttle. A programmer with custom tunes will take care of that. Next step is gears.

 

I think sluggish is the 5.0....

 

5.0 sluggish? It has more HP and torque than the old 5.4.

 

Thats why its called the 5.slow

 

Just gotta stir the pot, don't ya.

 

Of course, Gotta have some fun on here

 

So any whom what exactly does a stall converter do? Even if I don't need one. What would I gain from having one.

 

You got some very good advice. If your goal is waking up the 5.0 as you say, custom tunes along with regearing is the way to go. Period.

By the way, "low priced" mods does not equal tangible hp gains.

 

A stall converter is designed so that it does not turn until the engine reaches higher rpms. The vehicle does not move until the rpms of the engine matches the rpms of the converters specs. This is important for drag racing with a highly modified engine and lots of traction aids. Keeps the vehicle from falling on its face at take off.

 

To elaborate on what Bluejay said, a torque converter should match the power-band of the engine and also factor in the vehicle's weight and a few other factors. A converter that has a higher stall speed would compliment engine modifications (such as aftermarket cams) that reduce the engine's torque at low RPM.

A higher-stall converter will generate more heat in the transmission. Not something you want in a truck.

If your truck has the common 3.55 gears, then going to a 4.10 ratio would best compensate for the larger and heavier tires and get you close to the OE gearing. You could jump to 4.30 or 4.56 gears and get even better response from a stop, but efficiency would suffer. A custom tune isn't needed, but at the least the computer should be tuned for the gear ratio and tire size so the computer knows exactly what's going on. Tuners for just speed calibration are available for a little less than a full tuner.

 

However, a custom tune will get rid of the drive by wire hesitation.