I recently had the AutoSpring 1.5" level kit put on the front of my 2013 XTR 6.5 crew cab. I easily got 2 inches of lift, if not 2.5, since the front now sits dead level with the rear. Some angles it even looks as if the front is higher! It was more front end lift than I was hoping for, so prospective buyers beware! The kit is good quality but grossly inaccurate for lift amounts.

That being said, when I tow my travel trailer, it makes it worse. I need to do something with my rear suspension. Options are:

1.) Road Master Active Suspension
2.) Air Bags
3.) Bigger rear block

I really want the RAS but I need definite confirmation that I'm going to get some rear end lift with it!

Air Bags are my second choice only because they don't give the improved handling like the RAS does, and I don't want to have to worry about damaging the bags if the truck is jacked up off the ground... I could "customize" the rear height with different pressures correct?

Rear blocks could be the answer but I haven't seen anything other than a 3 inch block out there which would be too much... a 2-2.5 inch block would be fine.

Any opinions or direction?

 

I got the same kit but did a bunch of reading before hand and knew they say the 1.5 kit is actually more like 2" of actual lift. My '10 FX4 screw is still a pinch higher in the rear though. I've seen 1"-4" blocks but not sure if they would work on a '13.

 

I went with the 2007 stock 4x4 rear block to get back some lift after I installed the AS 1.5" spacer up front.
The new rear block I put in was. 2" VS the stock 1.25".

After pics:

 

Your truck is the reason I put the kit on mine - I've been admiring it for quite some time. Absolutely gorgeous! I went with the exact same tires you have in the same size too.

When you replaced those rear blocks did you use your original U bolts or did you have to get longer ones?

 

Oh, and will those OEM 2 inch blocks from 2007 fit on the 2013?

 

Thanks man! No on the original u bolts....you will need the 2007 OEM u-bolts. BUT use New nuts!
Also, I'm not sure what other years had the 2" blocks.....all I know is I used some from a 2007 & my 2012 had 1.25" blocks stock.
Yes they will work I believe, not sure why they wouldn't!? Unless they have changed for some reason?

I'm hoping to go with a set of Coilovers and rear 2.5" blocks soon. But will only do it if I can comfortably run 35's on the stock 3.55 gears. Still debating that fact!

 

I just ordered the Traxda 2in rear block kit so that should give me back the little bit of rake I'm looking for. Thanks for the input!

 

If you don't tighten the lower strut bolts with the vehicle sitting level on the ground, it's going to bind those bushings and cause the front to be higher. Sooner or later, it will lead to their destruction. Loosen the bolts, roll the truck back and forth a few times, then retorque. Spec is a rediculous 400+ lb-ft., so just know that you have to tighten the sh*t out of it. I made it easier by reversing the bolt so the nut faces forward.

 

Just for others' reference, Autospring's blocks for 2WDs are 2". Those are what I have.

 

I really have no idea if the shop torqued those bolts with the truck on the ground or not. How much of a difference would it make? Any idea what size the bolt or nut is for that lower strut?

 

You can just pull your sockets out and check the size of the head and nut lol

 

The bolt is 24mm and the nut is 27mm if I recall correctly.

Enough of a difference that any professional knows to always tighten suspension bushings with the vehicle at ride height. As many of us have, this was a lesson learned the hard way.

 

That is interesting about the lower strut bolts. I will have to redo the Yukon that I just did. And that one is higher in the front after the change.

 

After thinking about it, I had to check my truck for the nut and bolt size to be sure (I was a little hazy on it). The nut is 30mm, and the bolt is 27mm.