Any electrical gurus out there who can double check my wiring schematic?
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Any electrical gurus out there who can double check my wiring schematic?
Hey guys!
I have been researching, reading, and asking a bunch of questions the last 3 weeks here to get ready for my wiring project. To say this is ambitious for my first automotive wiring project is an understatement but I want to learn how to do this stuff the right way and appreciate all the help everyone has given me. I understand that this is a rather involved post so I have tried to organize my thoughts and questions so they are easily (hopefully) understood, I truly appreciate anyone who is willing to take a moment out of their busy day to help me out once again and review my wiring schematics and answer the questions I have within this post.
My plans are to wire up 6 switches to control some lights behind the grill, some rock lights, extra rev. lights, bed lights, interior footwell lights and the automatic tailgate opener mod. I have drawn all this up to the best of my knowledge and based off of what I have read and have been told. If you don't mind reviewing the overall wiring schematic and individual circuits and letting me know if I am doing anything wrong, if there's a better way of doing something, or if I have something in the wrong place I would be forever grateful.
Many of you have stressed the importance of relays and diodes. I plan to use these with my switches and wanted to confirm this way of quenching the relay is correct by placing a diode into the 85 & 86 spots in the relay:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Here is the overall wiring schematic showing my runs and connection. I figured my loads to be:
Grill lights-0.87A
Rev. Lights-3A
Bed Lights-4.8A
Rock Lights-3.7A
Footwell Lights-5A
Console & lid light-0.54A
Total Amps: 17.91A
I figured a 12 gauge line with a 20A fuse running from front to rear and tying in the accessories along the way, a 14 gauge (would I use a 15A fuse here?) branching off of that to go into the console I am building for a constant 12v line and 16 gauge branching off of that to my switches, relays, etc. Most of the time (for interior leds), I want them to turn on when I hit the unlock button on my remote, open the door, or have my headlights on. I've noticed that this is the same setup for the lights on my dash, radio, etc. I would like to tie into that circuit and run a line into the console as one power source option or I can flip the switch and run off of the 12v constant source if I don't have the key in the ignition. My question here is, what wires would I tap for that and would I run the new spliced line to a relay and then into the console so it can also power a few small cupholder lights as well?
These are the individual circuits. One of my main questions here is if I have the fuses in the correct spot, if they need to go in front of the relay, or somewhere else. *Note: All of my switches are spdt on-off-on switches for extra setup options.
Automatic Tailgate opener:
If you are unfamiliar with this mod, it is a combination of 3 seperate mods. The deezee tailgate assist, adding an actuator to lock/unlock the tailgate, and remote sensor and solenoid to pull the tailgate handle lever to open it. I have read that the solenoid can pull a good amount of power so I have decided to give it its own dedicated line and run the tr7 (senses lock/unlock pulses) off of the other power line running into the console.
Here is a video of it in action
There is a couple writeups on it already and this is the wiring setup they used so I think this is pretty good unless you see something wrong that I am missing.
Grill, Bed, & Reverse lights:
These are three separate circuits but I am going to be wiring them all up the same (aside from no mercury switch for the reverse lights). I've got this setup with the spdt switches wired differently so that I can have a switch in the cab AND near the accessory. The way I have it configured is that from the cab I can either power the back switch (which is what I will normally do) or I can use the cab switch to over-ride it if I forget the lights are on or want to simply turn them on from the cab. I plan on using 16g wire branching off of the 14g wire I have running into the console. My main questions are: Is the fuse in the right spot, is a 5A fuse sufficient for the accessories (again, 3 seperate circuits, they will not all be wired up together), and I understand that the mercury switches aren't rated for a lot of power, am I adequately protected by the relay or do i need something in front of the mercury switch too?
Rock Lights
This circuit and a few others I have setup with the spdt switches so that I can have the option of two separate power sources. The main source would be the Acc line (I think?) to turn on when I unlock the doors, open the doors or have my headlights on, or I can power them directly using the 12v source line as the second option. Again, just wondering if I have the fuse and relay all correct and in the right spots, and am running 16g off of the 14g console wire.
LED Footwell Lights
This is another circuit I want to run with two power source options. My buddy gave me a 6 bar led kit for the truck a while back and it has a main module that you plug the 6 light bars into. I am not sure on the total amperage but the instructions call for a 5A fuse so I think its safe to say for my loads calculations to just assume 5A. Same as before, 16g running off of the 14g and wondering about fuse & relay locations.
Ricer Mode
Ok, Ill admit it, while I wont use it often, I kinda would like a switch to control the grill lights, rock lights, and bed lights all in one. My question for this circuit is this: Is this the correct way to wire this, essentially this is just a switch to control or override 3 other switches so not sure if the relay is necessary or not or if there is a better way to do this.
Console Lid Light
I am building a flip top lid for my console and would like to wire in a small strip of leds to turn on when I open the lid. My questions here are the same as with the mercury tilt switches. This prox. switch is only rated for .2A, so am I good with this setup with the relay or do I need anything else. Also, since the led strip is only 9" long and about .25A, I dont need a fuse do I?
Lastly, I have a couple cupholder puck lights coming in and one more small strip of led's in the lower part of the console I want wired up with the Acc. Line, there wont be a switch for it, I just want it to turn on under the same criteria as above. The cup holders call for a 1-3A fuse which I could probably just add the led wires to that, but do I need a relay for this as well?
Thank you to whomever has read this and can offer me any assistance or direction.
I have been researching, reading, and asking a bunch of questions the last 3 weeks here to get ready for my wiring project. To say this is ambitious for my first automotive wiring project is an understatement but I want to learn how to do this stuff the right way and appreciate all the help everyone has given me. I understand that this is a rather involved post so I have tried to organize my thoughts and questions so they are easily (hopefully) understood, I truly appreciate anyone who is willing to take a moment out of their busy day to help me out once again and review my wiring schematics and answer the questions I have within this post.
My plans are to wire up 6 switches to control some lights behind the grill, some rock lights, extra rev. lights, bed lights, interior footwell lights and the automatic tailgate opener mod. I have drawn all this up to the best of my knowledge and based off of what I have read and have been told. If you don't mind reviewing the overall wiring schematic and individual circuits and letting me know if I am doing anything wrong, if there's a better way of doing something, or if I have something in the wrong place I would be forever grateful.
Many of you have stressed the importance of relays and diodes. I plan to use these with my switches and wanted to confirm this way of quenching the relay is correct by placing a diode into the 85 & 86 spots in the relay:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Here is the overall wiring schematic showing my runs and connection. I figured my loads to be:
Grill lights-0.87A
Rev. Lights-3A
Bed Lights-4.8A
Rock Lights-3.7A
Footwell Lights-5A
Console & lid light-0.54A
Total Amps: 17.91A
I figured a 12 gauge line with a 20A fuse running from front to rear and tying in the accessories along the way, a 14 gauge (would I use a 15A fuse here?) branching off of that to go into the console I am building for a constant 12v line and 16 gauge branching off of that to my switches, relays, etc. Most of the time (for interior leds), I want them to turn on when I hit the unlock button on my remote, open the door, or have my headlights on. I've noticed that this is the same setup for the lights on my dash, radio, etc. I would like to tie into that circuit and run a line into the console as one power source option or I can flip the switch and run off of the 12v constant source if I don't have the key in the ignition. My question here is, what wires would I tap for that and would I run the new spliced line to a relay and then into the console so it can also power a few small cupholder lights as well?
These are the individual circuits. One of my main questions here is if I have the fuses in the correct spot, if they need to go in front of the relay, or somewhere else. *Note: All of my switches are spdt on-off-on switches for extra setup options.
Automatic Tailgate opener:
If you are unfamiliar with this mod, it is a combination of 3 seperate mods. The deezee tailgate assist, adding an actuator to lock/unlock the tailgate, and remote sensor and solenoid to pull the tailgate handle lever to open it. I have read that the solenoid can pull a good amount of power so I have decided to give it its own dedicated line and run the tr7 (senses lock/unlock pulses) off of the other power line running into the console.
Here is a video of it in action
There is a couple writeups on it already and this is the wiring setup they used so I think this is pretty good unless you see something wrong that I am missing.
Grill, Bed, & Reverse lights:
These are three separate circuits but I am going to be wiring them all up the same (aside from no mercury switch for the reverse lights). I've got this setup with the spdt switches wired differently so that I can have a switch in the cab AND near the accessory. The way I have it configured is that from the cab I can either power the back switch (which is what I will normally do) or I can use the cab switch to over-ride it if I forget the lights are on or want to simply turn them on from the cab. I plan on using 16g wire branching off of the 14g wire I have running into the console. My main questions are: Is the fuse in the right spot, is a 5A fuse sufficient for the accessories (again, 3 seperate circuits, they will not all be wired up together), and I understand that the mercury switches aren't rated for a lot of power, am I adequately protected by the relay or do i need something in front of the mercury switch too?
Rock Lights
This circuit and a few others I have setup with the spdt switches so that I can have the option of two separate power sources. The main source would be the Acc line (I think?) to turn on when I unlock the doors, open the doors or have my headlights on, or I can power them directly using the 12v source line as the second option. Again, just wondering if I have the fuse and relay all correct and in the right spots, and am running 16g off of the 14g console wire.
LED Footwell Lights
This is another circuit I want to run with two power source options. My buddy gave me a 6 bar led kit for the truck a while back and it has a main module that you plug the 6 light bars into. I am not sure on the total amperage but the instructions call for a 5A fuse so I think its safe to say for my loads calculations to just assume 5A. Same as before, 16g running off of the 14g and wondering about fuse & relay locations.
Ricer Mode
Ok, Ill admit it, while I wont use it often, I kinda would like a switch to control the grill lights, rock lights, and bed lights all in one. My question for this circuit is this: Is this the correct way to wire this, essentially this is just a switch to control or override 3 other switches so not sure if the relay is necessary or not or if there is a better way to do this.
Console Lid Light
I am building a flip top lid for my console and would like to wire in a small strip of leds to turn on when I open the lid. My questions here are the same as with the mercury tilt switches. This prox. switch is only rated for .2A, so am I good with this setup with the relay or do I need anything else. Also, since the led strip is only 9" long and about .25A, I dont need a fuse do I?
Lastly, I have a couple cupholder puck lights coming in and one more small strip of led's in the lower part of the console I want wired up with the Acc. Line, there wont be a switch for it, I just want it to turn on under the same criteria as above. The cup holders call for a 1-3A fuse which I could probably just add the led wires to that, but do I need a relay for this as well?
Thank you to whomever has read this and can offer me any assistance or direction.