Did this to my buddys 03 f350 last weekend, world of difference now!

 

Where did you install it? Can you post a pic?

 

I was looking at my EB and there isn't hardly any place to put a valve the way they have it shielded. I was told the newer trucks 09 to 13 have a well insulated blend door, and that it probably won't affect it as much.
Any one done the valve mod on a newer stye F-150?

 

Just traded it last night and picked up my 2013 FX4 but I installed mine on the line going to the firewall about 5" back from where it comes out of the engine. Cut line, insert ball valve with hose clamps and you're good to go.

here's a link to the original post
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...rformance.html


The reason this works is your heater core is right beside your ac and only separated by plastic. The heat from your heater core warms the cold air from the a/c, By not running hot water into your heater core your a/c can put out much colder air. Most cars have a vacumm run valve to do this when you switch to cold air.

 

I live in Delaware and the hottest day we've had thus far was around 98-99 degrees, and very humid. I've had no issues with my A/C thus far. I have a 2011 Lariat with the 6.2. I keep mine set on 72 on normal A/C with recirculate on. Sometimes I have to raise it because it gets too cold. At the register the thermometer shows about 42. When it cycles (and I happen to look at the thermometer) it seems to be around 50-51 or so. I can only remember about twice I put her on Max.. That was after she sat for a long time in the sun. As I recall it did take a while for it to really cool down. But once it did I was very comfortable. My '94 T'bird will freeze me right out of the car. I've had it for 11 years with no issues. I must be one of the lucky ones.

 

fast6; so this is the valve you bought and two fittings to make male adapters for the hose ends?

 

man mine blows like its a meat locker! when I was in Phoenix it hit 117 for three days and as long as I parked in the hotels parking garage it was ok. the first day there was no covered parking so I parked on top floor and it was hot till I drove five min then after 10 min it was a meat locker again!

 

Has anyone done the ball valve mod on an Eco Boost? IF so, have any pictures?

After driving in 105 degree heat this weekend, I have noticed several things.
1. is that the radiator fans do not run fast enough to draw air across the condenser at idle for the a/c to even really work.
2. They have the system tweaked down so small, that it is just barely adequate for 90 degree days and not adequate for anything over that.

It seems strange to me that we can improve all this engine technology and trans technology, and yet we go completely backwards on the a/c part. Older cars have fantastic a/c that works great at idle or running down the highway. They can easily blow 38 degree air at 105 ambient temp. So why can't a 2013?

 

I know what you mean. My T'bird will outright freeze you out of the car. It will blow 38 degrees no problem. Heck, Before I gave it to my nephew, I had a '91 Tracer LTS for many years. It had the 1.8 DOHC with a 5-speed and even at idle that little car had no problem maintaining 42-44. Temp did rise a bit if I sat for any length of time. But once I got moving it was very comfortable. I just don't understand why these trucks are having this problem (except mine). Well, I hope it holds up as well as my T'bird

 

My 2010 ac sucked, 2012 was a little better and my 2013 truck has been great so far. We haven't had nearly as hot a summer as usual here in GA though.

 

So has anyone done the shut off valve to the heater core on an EB?

 

LS1POWERED, member here has a good thread on how he fixed his A/C woes cheaply. I would link it here, but I am severely technologically challenged.

 

I that is the one that used the shut off valve for the 2004 through 2008. That is what I was asking if anyone had done that mod on an EcoBoost.

 

I figured out why this thing doesn't cool. Last Saturday here it was so humid that you could hardly get a breath of air. While I was driving my truck I noticed that the a/c vents would fog up, and clear up, and fog up, and clear up, and vapor like fog would come out of the vents. That is the compressor cycling on and off, and that is why the a/c is not performing correctly. The same exact thing that my 2010 did, only they put in a different program to stop the cycling, and it was much better. Now they are saying that here is no such tsb for the 2013. What a bunch of crap.

 

Has anyone heard of a TSB that addresses this a/c compressor cycling?
It has finally warmed up enough here to need the a/c, and it reminded me today how pathetic this system is. And it is all because the compressor is cycling on and off.
Does anyone know of a way to program the computer to keep the compressor on.

I have verified that my freon level is correct.

Thanks.