When I was investigating the problem I removed the inside access panel and found no way to get to the torsion rod. The access panel is at the top 1/3 of the TG and the rod is at the very bottom of the TG. I couldn't even see the rod from the access panel because there is metal bracing halfway up the TG. Ended up using my inspection camera by snaking it inside the TG (that didn't reveal anything either).

To me it looks like they have to remove the TG and knock out the rod through one of the ends that locks into the bed (could be wrong though).

 

That's typically how most torsion bar systems are designed; to be Removed & Replaced along it's axis and held in place by some sort of retainer on the ends. If you remove the tailgate it may then be more obvious when looking at the pivot points directly.

 

My dealer is awsome & I had a key assembly replaced. Left the truck. They do not want to have the responsiblity of damaging or scratching a loose tailgate.

 

Tailgate Lift Assist Torsion Rod


If equipped, disconnect the reverse camera wiring harness connector from the main harness and release the retaining clip. Slide the harness through
the box crossmember.
Remove the tailgate from the vehicle.
Loosen the clamp block machine screw 2-3 turns. Underneath the Tailgate, close to the RH pivot.



Remove the torsion rod from the tailgate.

((If the broken end of the torsion rod is stuck in the clamp block
Remove the urethane bushing from the RH pivot.,. From the hole in the base of the RH pivot, drill an 8 mm (0.31 in) access hole through the tailgate inner panel. Use a drift to press the broken end of the rod from the clamp block, then remove broken end through drain hole in the bottom edge of the tailgate. Seal the 8 mm (0.31 in) access hole in the tailgate inner panel with silicone gasket and sealant.
Install the urethane bushing in the RH pivot.))



Install a new torsion rod through the LH pivot. Guide the rod into the clamp block.
Position the torsion rod so that the end bottoms out and is flush with the LH pivot.
Tighten the 2 clamp block machine screws.
To install, tighten to 14 Nm (124 lb-in).
Position the reverse camera wiring harness through the box crossmember.
Install Tailgate and Connect the reverse camera wiring harness

 

SETCHAN,

Great detail!

I just picked up the truck from the dealer and managed to speak to the mechanic who worked on it. He told me he was not able to pull out the rod without having to drill the hole as noted in your post. Funny thing is the rod was not broken like it states in the drilling proceedure. Mechanic said it was seized.

The proceedure says: "Loosen the clamp block machine screw 2-3 turns. Underneath the Tailgate, close to the RH pivot."
I wonder if he did this? Maybe that's why he couldn't slide out the rod. If he did not remove this screw when trying to take the rod out would that have compromised "clamp block" or this screw at all?

Proceedure says:"Seal the 8 mm (0.31 in) access hole in the tailgate inner panel with silicone gasket and sealant." Is this area visible with the tailgate installed because I want to check if he sealed it?

Just to be clear is "RH" = passenger side and "LH" = Driver side?

 

That's correct.

I guess it seems your fears of the competence of your local dealer may be founded. Who knows if he correctly followed the steps; very easy to accidentally skip reading one, especially as you go back and forth reading a step, performing the action, then returning back to the text. Happens to me all the time...

 

Well I see the hole he drill and DID NOT SEAL UP.
It's about a 3/8" diameter and exposed metal that is definitely going to start oxidizing soon and rusting short after.
I'm going to call them but want to first find out about the "clamp block" screw and exactly what it's suppose to do or if it's not loosened prior to rod removal what does that do to the screw or clamping block. Then I can hit up the dealer with both issues at the same time so when he tries to justify missing one thing then I'll hit him with "yea and you also missed....."

I hope to get a response here soon because I don't want to much time to elaps, you know with the short, selective memories some of these guys have...

 

I cant imagine him not loosening the screw. I'd just touch up where he drilled with primer myself and cover up with silicone. But you're entitled to have him do it.

If the assist works, the rod is tight in the block.

 

SETCHAN,

I was going to take care of the hole myself if that was the only oversight. I grabbed the exposed part of the rod through the bottom drain area and put some pressure on it to see if it was loose at all and it seemed fairly solid in place. Is that a good indication that the rod is tight in the clamping block?

 

if the assist works ( tailgate is easy to raise and lower with minimal effort ), I would say it's all good. If the tailgate feels heavy, then the rod would be turning inside the block.
Is it still making that noise (loud bang) or is it fixed now?

 

Noise is gone but I would not say the tailgate raises with minimal effort however it is smoother.

 

It should not be leaps and bounds easier by no means, but to me there is a slightly noticeable ease in lifting the gate relative to its size and mass.

But my arms are calibrated to notice these things... :roll eyes:

At least the thumps be gone!

 

After several more up and down tailgate cycles I can say that it is smoother, easier to lift and definitely easier to shut. I bent the end of a Q-tip, dipped it into rustproof paint and dabbed it onto the exposed metal around the hole they drilled and tomorrow I'll fill it with sealer....niceee...nice.
Thanks much for all the guidance.