Where is everyone seeing the best mileage on their EB?? Running it hard or babying the accelerator pedal? Some engines get bettter mileage when you run them and not baby them.

 

Let me provide you with some information.. hopefully this helps..

Ecoboost how it works:
The turbine wheel is coupled to a compressor that pressurizes air coming into the engine, that is called "boost" and allows the engine to breathe air as if it were larger in displacement since more air is forced into the intake.

The more air an engine breathes, the more power it generates.

Turbo lag is virtually eliminated- the turbos will spool up faster than a single turbo engine and all the EB to reach peak power faster than a single turbo design

However, there is something in the engine that is called Ti-VCT or Twin independent Variable Cam Timing. Allows the camshaft to operate the intake and exhaust valves at different times in the combustion cycle, based on speed and load. What this means to you is that at it will adjust the cam timing to provide optimum performance and fuel economy.

Another feature that pairs with the Ti-VCT is something called Agressive Deceleration Fuel Shut Off (ADFSO). Helps maximize fuel efficiency by temporarily interrupting fuel delivery and consumption when the vehicle normally slows down while maintaining normal engine operation. Its automatic and requires no interaction from you.

Also note that the fuel economy is best measured after accumulating 2k-3k miles allowing the engine to break in.

SOOOO to answer your question to get the best MPG out of the EB keep the turbos at a midline not a highline (petal to the metal). It does adjust as you drive though..**Ti-VCT** One day you want power it gives you power.. next you want better MPG drive more economical..

Hope this helps

 

mid line to feathering. Simple physics a turbo means more air to engine, more air means more power but also more fuel

 

I appreciate all the info! Now to add why I am asking this question. I am running a 2011 Screw Fx4 EB with 305/65/R18 BFG A/T 10 ply. On a trip i have got 14.9, at the best. Around town I get around 12.5. The truck has 7,163 miles on it. A friend of mine has the same truck gears and all and he is running 275/70/R18 BFG A/T 10 ply and getting 17.4 on a trip and 14 around town. He runs his truck hard all the time. I run mine sometimes hard, sometimes I baby it. Now the difference in tire weight, His tires are same height just not as wide as mine and his weighs 10 lbs less than mine. Could it be that 40 lb difference is that much in fuel economy???? I do understand I am rolling a wider tire, but still I think that is a big difference.

 

Are you sure they are the same height? And how do they compare to the factory height. If different, were the PCMs recalibrated? Wider will definitely take mpg as will weight. Are the wheels the same weight? What brand of gas are you ***** running and what octane? Do you drive the same terrain?

 

BLUEJAY- Everything is the same. Same fuel, same terrain. Well I just went out and measured the tires on the trucks, mine and his. His tires are 1/4" shorter. Neither PCM has been messed with. Same wheels.

 

Remember, you're not adding 40lb in the bed. You added 40lb of rotating mass. Rotating mass is the worst kind of weight to add. It kills every area of your performance. So much so that some high end sports cars use light allow lug nuts! When I shop for tires the weight is one of the most important things to consider.

 

WOOKIE- Well put!! My problem is, I have not found a tire that meets my expectations like the BFG A/T. Guess I need to quit complaining and either deal with the weight or go down in tire size. LOL.

 

I realize that your tires aren't much wider than his ... but you have more surface area impacting the ground and that will have some effect over your mpg.

 

Different trucks that are identical and driven the same way can get widely different gas mileage - this has been the case for many years. However, the EB is developing a reputation for quite a few of them just getting bad mileage.

 

That's why I have never bought a set. I try to keep my tires Load C or P series. The last replacement set I bought for my 05 were Toyo Open Countrys in P. I looked at the tire specs and the combined rating for the two tires was about 1,000lbs more than my rear axle. If they would make the BFGs in a more 1/2 ton rated tire I might buy a set.

 

I drive my truck fairly aggressively and I average 16.5 mpg (2wd, screw, 6.5' bed). I towed a 21' Skeeter roughly 600 miles this weekend at 70-75 on the open highway and averaged 14.8 mpg for the trip, which is what you're seeing unloaded. Helps proves the theory about the wildly varying mileage...

 

Rolling friction is probbly the main reasson (wider tire=more resitance=more power required) also take an aero hit from the larger frontal area of the tires in addition to the weight (which definatly doesnt help)

Pfft its not just high end sports cars you can physiclly feel the diffrence (acceleration, handling, braking, ride comfort) between steel wheels and OEM alloys on my Miata and if I wasnt such a cheap bastard Id have alloy lugs as well. (Before someone says its the tires on paper the snows on the steels should have better accel and comfort...) I flat out refuse to have a set of alloys that weighs more then 15lb per corner for that car (the steel wheels for winter are the exception)

 

WOOKIE- If it wasnt for me pulling my 34 ft (ball-bumper) camper weighing 7300lbs dry, i would run an 8 ply or 6ply tire. But I feel its best to run 10 ply.

 

my opinion is that when taking off from lights... depress the thotttle enough to get up to speed limit in a relaxed mannor. but do not feather it and take a city block to do it.. use your instant meter to see how this works.. if you lay back and baby it the instant reading stays below average a long time. but if you just get up to speed with a normal takeoff you can let up on the throttle and get into economy mode faster.. also watch traffice well ahead and start slowing down "easing up and not braking" sooner when traffic is slowing for a light ahead.. I see so many people racing just to slam on the brakes for the next light. Also keep up with tire pressure... you would be amazed at how low your tires can really be and not look low...