A little off topic....Issue with 2001 Escape after engine cleaning
A little off topic....Issue with 2001 Escape after engine cleaning
Today I cleaned the engine bays of my 2010 F150 and my 2001 Escape. After cleaning the F150 it started up fine and runs normal. However the Escape won't start now. Has anybody ever had this happen to them in any Ford vehicle? I hope that I won't have to have the car towed to the dealer tomorrow. I am going out of town on Tuesday and need to get this car running for my wife. Any help please, thanks!
But then I'll have to clean the engine again from all the WD40! Ha, just kidding I'll give that a shot now.
This car is actually great! Over 90K miles and no issues. Of course I go and mess everything up
What method did you use to "clean the engine bay?" The reason I ask is that many Ford vehicles (and it pains me to say this) don't tolerate large volumes of or high pressure water under the hood. The big place it bites you is in the area of the coil packs.
I'm not sure about a 4 cylinder Escape (you didn't mention which motor it has), but the V6 has the 3 front coil packs under a plastic cover that comes off with three 8 mm nuts. Once that's pulled, you'll find the coil packs held down each with a single 8 MM bolt. Remove them, carefully remove the coil packs and inspect for water down the holes on top of the plugs. If you have any, you can blow it out with compressed air.
As for the rear coil packs, they're a pain. The upper air plenum needs to come off to get to them. It's about a 20 minute job if you know what you're doing. Get some help if you've never done it.
One really bad area to get wet is the ECM. It's housed behind a rectangular metal cover plate under the hood, on the firewall, about dead center.
Assuming you get it back up and running, let this be a warning about cleaning our engines. I detail cars on the side and refuse to detail under the hood of a Ford for this very reason. I love my truck, but I've learned to love a somewhat dirty engine compartment. Oh, and BTW, my Ford dealer recently fired a detailer who insisted on pressure washing every used car under the hood. The reason? Too many fried electrical components.
I'm not sure about a 4 cylinder Escape (you didn't mention which motor it has), but the V6 has the 3 front coil packs under a plastic cover that comes off with three 8 mm nuts. Once that's pulled, you'll find the coil packs held down each with a single 8 MM bolt. Remove them, carefully remove the coil packs and inspect for water down the holes on top of the plugs. If you have any, you can blow it out with compressed air.
As for the rear coil packs, they're a pain. The upper air plenum needs to come off to get to them. It's about a 20 minute job if you know what you're doing. Get some help if you've never done it.
One really bad area to get wet is the ECM. It's housed behind a rectangular metal cover plate under the hood, on the firewall, about dead center.
Assuming you get it back up and running, let this be a warning about cleaning our engines. I detail cars on the side and refuse to detail under the hood of a Ford for this very reason. I love my truck, but I've learned to love a somewhat dirty engine compartment. Oh, and BTW, my Ford dealer recently fired a detailer who insisted on pressure washing every used car under the hood. The reason? Too many fried electrical components.
I'd disconnect as many connection in the wiring loom as i can find. Put a fan on the rad and let everything dry out. Add a little dielectric grease before plugging it all back together.
Trending Topics
What method did you use to "clean the engine bay?" The reason I ask is that many Ford vehicles (and it pains me to say this) don't tolerate large volumes of or high pressure water under the hood. The big place it bites you is in the area of the coil packs.
I'm not sure about a 4 cylinder Escape (you didn't mention which motor it has), but the V6 has the 3 front coil packs under a plastic cover that comes off with three 8 mm nuts. Once that's pulled, you'll find the coil packs held down each with a single 8 MM bolt. Remove them, carefully remove the coil packs and inspect for water down the holes on top of the plugs. If you have any, you can blow it out with compressed air.
As for the rear coil packs, they're a pain. The upper air plenum needs to come off to get to them. It's about a 20 minute job if you know what you're doing. Get some help if you've never done it.
One really bad area to get wet is the ECM. It's housed behind a rectangular metal cover plate under the hood, on the firewall, about dead center.
Assuming you get it back up and running, let this be a warning about cleaning our engines. I detail cars on the side and refuse to detail under the hood of a Ford for this very reason. I love my truck, but I've learned to love a somewhat dirty engine compartment. Oh, and BTW, my Ford dealer recently fired a detailer who insisted on pressure washing every used car under the hood. The reason? Too many fried electrical components.
I'm not sure about a 4 cylinder Escape (you didn't mention which motor it has), but the V6 has the 3 front coil packs under a plastic cover that comes off with three 8 mm nuts. Once that's pulled, you'll find the coil packs held down each with a single 8 MM bolt. Remove them, carefully remove the coil packs and inspect for water down the holes on top of the plugs. If you have any, you can blow it out with compressed air.
As for the rear coil packs, they're a pain. The upper air plenum needs to come off to get to them. It's about a 20 minute job if you know what you're doing. Get some help if you've never done it.
One really bad area to get wet is the ECM. It's housed behind a rectangular metal cover plate under the hood, on the firewall, about dead center.
Assuming you get it back up and running, let this be a warning about cleaning our engines. I detail cars on the side and refuse to detail under the hood of a Ford for this very reason. I love my truck, but I've learned to love a somewhat dirty engine compartment. Oh, and BTW, my Ford dealer recently fired a detailer who insisted on pressure washing every used car under the hood. The reason? Too many fried electrical components.
I go to work early tomorrow. My wife is going to try and start it in the morning. It is 40 degrees here so the drying may take some time. I don't have an air compressor so I may just call my insurance and have them send a tow truck. The stealership will figure it out. I would assume that I wouldn't need any new parts and I would just be paying for labor. I don't think any electrical systems are fried because everything else works fine, it just won't start. If I have time I will check the front 3 coil packs. If they have water then I would assume the other 3 in the rear have water. I already checked the ECM. There was a little water on the outside of the harness. I used a can of compressed air and blew out the insides just to make sure, it was dry.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I will wash this cars engine bay again. I have used the same method on my F150 3 times and never had an issue.
My wife has the same exact car except hers is a 2007 model. Every oil change I spray the entire bay down with simple green, let sit for a few minutes then rinse. I have never had a problem from doing this. I have noticed that water collects around the coil packs. I always take a fluid extractor and suck out all standing water from where ever I can. I wonder if you unplugged something while using the brush? Also check all your fuses. Theres a good chance something got wet that wasnt supposed to and you popped a fuse when you tried starting it.
My wife has the same exact car except hers is a 2007 model. Every oil change I spray the entire bay down with simple green, let sit for a few minutes then rinse. I have never had a problem from doing this. I have noticed that water collects around the coil packs. I always take a fluid extractor and suck out all standing water from where ever I can. I wonder if you unplugged something while using the brush? Also check all your fuses. Theres a good chance something got wet that wasnt supposed to and you popped a fuse when you tried starting it.

Never again!






Was it worth the trouble? Probably not. Luckily tax season just hit. I was going to buy a new DA orbital polisher but now my wife is not going for it


