Ruff, if you look at the two pics, the "washer" portion of the pin is absolutely most definitely much further inward than the properly fitting drivers side. I don't see any obvious welding problems in those pics anywhere. I honestly think that if you pull that pin out even with the other one, it might fix your problem. If the pin is too far in, the latch cannot fully grab it. I have seen that problem more times than I can count fingers.

If you liik at the pic, you will see that the pointed "tip" just at the base of the plastic bed rail cap is filled in properly by the peice it is welded to. If that skin was welded in the wrong position to make the huge difference your other earlier pic showed, you would see a gap there where that "tip is. I am assuming that that flat sheet metal peice will come pre welded to the new factory box outer skin.

Can you pull those two rubber stops out. It will be a simple plastic push type clip with a phillips head holding it in. If you push to unscrew, it will never come out. Be gentle and turn carefully. Next, can you measure both sides from the edge of that hole the clip came out of, to the tip of the outer skin, again the part just below the bed rail mldg. In millimeters if you have a metric tape around. set the tape on the hole at 100 mm, and measure from there to get a good measurement. Do this for both sides. In seeing these pics, I am even more sure that a new skin will not fix your problem.

 

canadianelbow nailed it! If you look closely the passenger side latch pin is inward just as far as the drivers side is outward. The box side is welded even with the superstructure of the box, If the box side was welded fore of aft it would have to be atleast a six inch difference to make that much of a misalignment at the gate. Good eye canadian

 

I see what you guys are talking about I just don't understand how they would have missed that. The tech did say he tried taking out the pin to see if it would shut flush and that didn't work. The tech pointed out to me the place he is looking at that shows the metal was welded together too far back. it's hard to describe the pc he showed me but if you look at the square indented sheetmetal area where the pin is you can see how the passenger side is further towards the tail lights then the driver side, when compared to the sheetmetal its welded too. Its not by much but it is. I'm still going to try what you said canadianelbow.

Just to make sure I got it right, you want me to take out the pin and take off the L shaped rubber bumpers correct. I know you want me to measure it too, but it should also close flush when I do it right.

 

Yes. Pull BOTH pins, and both rubber "L" bump-stops. while the bumpers are out, take the measurement. Then try the fitment (close the gate) without anything in there. Then put the rubber stops back in and check again. If it fits without the pins, it fits. From there you have a simple adjustment. Or perhaps the latch in your tailgate isn't working properly. If one side latches and the other doesn't, you will get the mis-aligned appearance that yours shows. One thing you may want to do though, is to mark where the drivers pin is by putting a piece of masking tape along the top edge of the "washer" and another at the outside edge. It will just make things easier when you go to put it back in, as it is obviously in the correct position right now.

One other thing that could cause your problem is a twisted gate. This is a super easy thing to check. A 20 second swap at the dealer would confirm or deny this theory.

 

Ok, il work on that tomorow. The dealer already tried swapping out my tailgate, they said that didnt work.

 

So I did what you said, here's the pictures and measurements. The tailgate would not shut flush with both pins and the rubber bumpstops out.

Driver side (if you cant see the marks it measures 3cm (30mm) to the straight edge of the sheet metal that the hole is on, and about 3.3cm (33mm) to the curved edge)


Passenger (problem side) the other side looks like it measures the same 3cm (30mm) to the straight edge of the sheet metal that the hole is on, and about 3.3cm or 3.4cm (33 to 34mm) to the curved edge)


here's a picture I took with the pins and bumpstops out trying to push it closed. I even cut out my tailgate seal I installed with my tonneau to make sure that wasnt pushing it out.


And here is what the tech was trying to explain/show to me. These are pictures looking down at the pin and the sheetmetal its attatched through. He compared the outer sheetmetal to the sheetmetal under it, saying the inner sheetmetal on the passenger side was more to the rear of the truck then the driver.



Passenger

 

The measurement you took was not what I was looking for bud. I should have explained it better. You got the hole right, But I am looking for you to measure from that hole to the furthest outer-most point of the box skin. That pointy tip just under the plastic bed rail cap. This measurement will dis-prove the "And here is what the tech was trying to explain/show to me. These are pictures looking down at the pin and the sheetmetal its attatched through. He compared the outer sheetmetal to the sheetmetal under it, saying the inner sheetmetal on the passenger side was more to the rear of the truck then the driver" theory. If this measurement is within a couple millimeters, he is dead wrong. I understand the reasoning he is trying to give you, I just do not see it. The sheet metal doesn't "read" that way. I have been doing this long enough to have a strong grasp of sheet metal dynamics, and how to adjust things.

How does the bottom of the gate line up under the tail lights? If the bottom of the gate is inboard of the box sheet metal, it could be causing a binding effect before it reaches the closed position. Loosening off the bottom bolt of the Tailgate rotator point, and moving the bottom of that point towards the rear bumper, while leaving the top of that point stationary, will cause the top of the gate to rotate in. It's a hard fundamental to explain, but it is a geometric fact. Sometime a little goes a long way. I advise you to have a second set of hands to remove the gate though. You can do it alone, but one slight bump, and you will have paint damage you will regret later. Putting it back on alone without scratching anything is even harder...

 

I will try and get that measurement another time, but using the pics, it shows the passenger side is about 5mm shorter than the driver side. I would think that supports his theory that the passenger side is further forward. I also adjusted the pin as far forward as possible, didnt work. I did notice the passenger side lower adjustable mount was moved by the tech, I think he moved it down slightly to align the tailgate up and down there.

 

I remeasured from the bumper hole to the farthest corner edge of the bed itself. The driver side showed 88mm, while the passenger side was 92mm.

 

The pics don't show that kind of differential. I trust a tape measure before a picture any day. Assuming you measured properly, 4mm is a huge difference. The general tolerance in auto body is +-3mm. I shoot for zero, and accept 1mm no questions asked. 4 is too high by any standard.

Although...... unless my brain is on backwards today, you should have the exact opposite problem that you present. If the right side measurement is longer, then that says the right outer panel is welded 4mm back farther than the left already. Which means the gate should be closing inside the outer skin, not the way your pics show.

Am I confusing you yet?

 

That makes sense to me CanadienElbow, it should be the other way around, right?

I've been watching thing closely since you first posted, that blows man.

 

Agreed.

 

No your not confusing me, I was thinking the same thing after I was looking at what I wrote down later when I posted the updated measurements. But your right, I double checked it I had them backwards.

The correct measurements are
Driver side:92mm
Passenger side:88mm

 

So would 4mm's off prove what he is saying? Should I worry fixing the cosmetic issue will be asking for trouble in the long run, rust wise?

 

Well, it doesn't necessarily prove anything, but it does add some weight to his argument. I cannot confirm his findings without physically looking at it myself.

As for rust, it really honestly and truly depends on the integrity of the tech doing the work. The manager can blow smoke up your wazoo all day making promises, and explaining company policy, but it's the guy in the shop doing the work, UN-observed. Some guys care, others don't. My best single peice of advice is to bring the truck in to them in perfectly clean condition, and point it out to the Quality control guy in the office, and explain to him that you will be going over the repair with a fine tooth comb. If he knows that you are a "high maintenance" customer from the start, it might create a little extra awareness on the floor of the shop, and it might even prompt them to make sure a "caring" tech gets your job.

To do the job they will most likely remove the truck box off the frame. Some guys will just unbolt it and slide it back. To me, that is strike one. They will most likely leave the bumper on the truck, I would. It makes the box a little harder to take on and off, but is really a non necessary step. One thing you can do to prep yourself for the "after box re-install" is to do the "how many finger between the cab and box" and the distance between the bumper and the box test now, but don't be alarmed if at this point you realize that it wasn't perfect from the factory, they rarely are.

They will remove the tail lamp, and box rail top. Check the edges of the cap now, and after you pick it up for any slight damages. Better yet, ask the warranty claim to simply replace it as part of the job (if they will). They will then remove the wheel opening mldg. With care and precision it can be removed without damaging it, but again check the edges carefully before and after for damage. Even better, check them with the Quality control guy when you drop it off, and remind him you will be checking closely when you pick it up.

Next is the scary part. Now I grab my 3 inch cut off wheel, and use it like a grinder on its edge and grind away the top edge of the spot welds, until I see the Halo of the steel it is welded to. I do this for every spot weld, top bottom, front and back. This is by far the cleanest method. Some might choose to use spot weld drills, which run a different inherent risk of damage. The grind method will create heat, and without any heat gel, or even a wet rag on the back side of the panel, it will likely cause a small degree of burnt paint damage. The odds of them going through the incredible hassle of totally avoiding this is as close to absolute zero as you could imagine. Spot weld bits run a risk of drilling through, and/or heat damage of their own. Once all the spot welds are ground off, the box panel is tossed on the floor. It is at this point where the tech can stop, and look for these burn marks, and sand/feather them out for repaint later, and be able to do a good, and quick job of it. From there, it is grind the edges of the new panel, and box, and drill a few holes in the tailgate area. I would glue the panel on everywhere except the tailgate area. Too much banging and slamming in that area for me to trust the glue. A few welds, and some weld through primer (copper is my first choice). Clamp the glued area and let her sit till tomorrow, and off to the paint shop from there.

This ultimate brings me to yet another fatal flaw in the theory. The new skin's placement is so heavily dependent on the location of the panel it is welded to. (or glued to in this case) The wheel opening is where it is, and unless they replace the inner panel too the new panel will end up going on exactly where the old one came off of it.

If you sit in your box with the tailgate closed, and your rug pulled outta the way, is the gap along the bottom edge between the box and the bottom of the tailgate consistent? Or does it taper?

I'm still having a difficult time accepting that a new skin replacement is going to resolve the issue. I still cant help but think it can be aligned. It's the way all the different panels of the box structure fit together that make it impossible for this problem to only show up in the trouble spot you have. Only if one of the structure panels, or the outer skin was mis-stamped, and ultimately too large can I see this making sense, and even then.......

I'd get a second opinion from a different shop. Replacing weld on panels is a last resort, and not the best possible option.