2009 - 2014 F-150

Finally got rid of some boxes!!! (lift, wheels, and steps)

Old Aug 12, 2011 | 01:03 AM
  #16  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally Posted by Big_Smokey
Done yet?
No unfortunately not.. stupid me got the wrong lug nuts and of course no one carries the 14x2.0 mm so I'm heading out early in the morning to some rim shops tomorrow. hopefully have pics and I'll be done tomorrow.
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #17  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
well shes done, noise is high probably going to have to do something to fix that but here is a quick pic of her




I'll have some more pictures within the weekend
 

Last edited by fx4210; Aug 13, 2011 at 10:09 AM.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #18  
99and04f150's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
From: College Station , TX
Nice!!!!
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #19  
Big_Smokey's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
nice job sir. get a bigger rear block...you meant nose is high right?
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #20  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally Posted by Big_Smokey
nice job sir. get a bigger rear block...you meant nose is high right?
thanks, and yeah sorry i was typing pretty fast.. i was thinking either bigger block or an AAL im not sure what brand to go with for a 6" Block or something near that, I know Pro Comp makes a 5.5" Block but the nose looks at least an inch off.
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #21  
Augster's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Exclamation

I would strongly suggest you go with custom or re-arched springs as these 5"+ blocks may allow too much leverage for the axle to "wrap" the springs under heavy torque.

If going the tall block route, at least consider ladder bars to prevent axle wrap.... unless you know you are just going to putter around town and never seriously offroad/pull with it.
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #22  
08FX4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 5
From: Alabama
Nice! Definitely need some more pics.
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #23  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally Posted by Augster
I would strongly suggest you go with custom or re-arched springs as these 5"+ blocks may allow too much leverage for the axle to "wrap" the springs under heavy torque.

If going the tall block route, at least consider ladder bars to prevent axle wrap.... unless you know you are just going to putter around town and never seriously offroad/pull with it.
Yea I was afraid of a 5" block as it is I think I'm going to wait until I can do the bigger coilovers up front and then add some devear(not sure how to spell it) springs
 
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #24  
#16F150's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Leonardtown, MD
Nicely done brother!
 
Reply
Old Aug 14, 2011 | 11:20 PM
  #25  
polarisnford's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Did you keep the level lit on with the bds? I have the same setup only with Goodyear duratracs and am looking at adding a level kit or coilovers to get some extra lift. I have minor rubbing.
 
Reply
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 12:18 AM
  #26  
canadianelbow's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 1
From: Calgary, Alberta
Originally Posted by fx4210
thanks, and yeah sorry i was typing pretty fast.. i was thinking either bigger block or an AAL im not sure what brand to go with for a 6" Block or something near that, I know Pro Comp makes a 5.5" Block but the nose looks at least an inch off.
Measure from the ground to the center of the wheel opening molding on both front and back. A tape measure and 30 seconds will cure your curiosity. The factory blocks are 1.25". When I put my 5100's on at full height, my front way about 1/2 inch high. It looked worse than it actually measured. I replaced my factory block with a true 2", and it sits perfect. 3/8 high on the back end, just where I want it.
 
Reply
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:18 AM
  #27  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
First off, thanks for all the comments!!


Originally Posted by polarisnford
Did you keep the level lit on with the bds? I have the same setup only with Goodyear duratracs and am looking at adding a level kit or coilovers to get some extra lift. I have minor rubbing.
Yeah, I kept the level on it but I think im going to remove it. The main reason is because i really don't like the Cali the truck has and I'm also afraid it is putting a lot of stress on the suspension. I will however be going with some coilovers later with a different rear lift set up so I can eventually fit 37's but for now i don't think i need the lift. your tires are bigger than mine i believe they are 35.6" tall wereas mine are slightly under 35" also subtract whatever has been lost over the life of the tire, and i don't think i should have any issues with rubbing after I remove the level.

Also right now with the Bds and the level up front, i believe there is room for 37's.. in front, I'd only really do it with adjustable coilovers if you planed on offroading with it. however no way in hell is the rear going to have room for those tires, without, massive rubbing if you load anything really in your bed..
Polaris, if you wanted my opinion I'd say the cheap way for extra lift would be level, and AAl in the rear. the better way being coilovers cranked for extra height, and new leafs altogether in the rear or traction bars with bigger blocks.
 

Last edited by fx4210; Aug 15, 2011 at 01:22 AM.
Reply
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:35 AM
  #28  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally Posted by canadianelbow
Measure from the ground to the center of the wheel opening molding on both front and back. A tape measure and 30 seconds will cure your curiosity. The factory blocks are 1.25". When I put my 5100's on at full height, my front way about 1/2 inch high. It looked worse than it actually measured. I replaced my factory block with a true 2", and it sits perfect. 3/8 high on the back end, just where I want it.
Yeah its nose high right now because of the leveling kit, I was terrified of rubbing issues I might encounter because the rims I went with didn’t have an offset that was exactly recommended by BDS nor had I seen anyone running this set up on the forums. Now that I’ve seen that I don’t really have to worry about rubbing I’m going to take it off, also I had gambled like crazy with these rims on whether or not they would clear the suspension components but I figured they would and like everything else so far in my life I followed my gut.

Also sorry for no extra pictures, I've been tearing apart my house to find my camera, so should have some pictures soon. the truck goes to line-x tomorrow for the wheel wells and tailgate.
Just a Fact i want out there because i would have liked it when i was wheel hunting +18 offset on a 20x9 is compatible with a BDS with so far a 35x12.5 and we'll see when i change tires how it works out..
 
Reply
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #29  
fx4210's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
well here are a couple more pictures, I'll get some more after i take the level out




In that one you can really see that the nose is higher


with the +18 offset the wheels tuck those tires in really well
 
Reply
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #30  
08FX4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 5
From: Alabama
Looks great!
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:47 AM.