Towing with 2010 5.4 SCREW
#1
Towing with 2010 5.4 SCREW
I have a Supercrew 6.5' bed, 7700 GVWR rating with max trailer tow, built in brake controller, transmission cooler etc. The trailer hitch shows a max tongue weight of 1,150 LBS. The truck as equipped should be capable of towing 11,300LBS.
I purchased a Puma 30KFBSS that arrives shortly. The weights on it are: Dry hitch weight, 1,155 LBS (Seems the sticker showed 13xx LBS). Unloaded vehicle weight, 8130 LBS, GVWR 11315LBS.
I have an Equalizer 1200/12,000LB hitch aslo being installed.
My question is, IF the tongue weight of the trailer is indeed 13xx lbs, will the truck still handle this? I had an 2001 F150 XLT 7700 that we used for our half ton fifth wheel until we upgraded, and never had a problem with power(other than transmission issues.) Now one of the family member we camp with (he always needs the best/latest truck and camper) is starting to get to me when he says this truck wont handle the camper. Im looking for opinions from the group on whether it will, and if others have towed similiar trailers with similar trucks?
Thanks
I purchased a Puma 30KFBSS that arrives shortly. The weights on it are: Dry hitch weight, 1,155 LBS (Seems the sticker showed 13xx LBS). Unloaded vehicle weight, 8130 LBS, GVWR 11315LBS.
I have an Equalizer 1200/12,000LB hitch aslo being installed.
My question is, IF the tongue weight of the trailer is indeed 13xx lbs, will the truck still handle this? I had an 2001 F150 XLT 7700 that we used for our half ton fifth wheel until we upgraded, and never had a problem with power(other than transmission issues.) Now one of the family member we camp with (he always needs the best/latest truck and camper) is starting to get to me when he says this truck wont handle the camper. Im looking for opinions from the group on whether it will, and if others have towed similiar trailers with similar trucks?
Thanks
#2
#3
You'll be overweight will all your gas and gear, some will tell you its completely unsafe and you're a hazard on the road, others will say you'll be fine as ford generally underrates its specs.
It really comes down to how much premature wear you're willing to accept, and how safe you feel with your family and those around you you're sharing the road with.
Just don't be this guy
It really comes down to how much premature wear you're willing to accept, and how safe you feel with your family and those around you you're sharing the road with.
Just don't be this guy
#4
I have the same truck only the 5.5 bed and theres no way your going to like towing that. Plus your hitch weight will be 1400lbs when done. So figuring 1800+ for max payload- 1400lbs and the rest of whatever else, you will be way over and better invest in gas cards. Cause you'll need them. I tow 7200lbs loaded and wouldn't want to tow any more. Plus you'll need to get a new hitch with a higher rating for the F150. You are either joking or made a big mistake in getting the truck or TT.
#5
So the only problem I can see is the hitch weight being over. I am under the assumption that the WDH will fix that problem?
Also, when the towing guide even says its equipped to pull 11,300 LB's, and the trailer is 8130, + say 1000lbs for gear (we dont have a whole lot), the only variable being the holding tanks. Also, we dont tow any distance, everything we do is with 1.5 hours of where its stored.
I appreciate the comments, I just cant believe the dealer would lead me to think its fine when its not? The dealer also has sold our family 7 trailers in the last 5 years - so he knows us and knows we can easily sway the reputation of the dealers name if we get screwed.
Also, when the towing guide even says its equipped to pull 11,300 LB's, and the trailer is 8130, + say 1000lbs for gear (we dont have a whole lot), the only variable being the holding tanks. Also, we dont tow any distance, everything we do is with 1.5 hours of where its stored.
I appreciate the comments, I just cant believe the dealer would lead me to think its fine when its not? The dealer also has sold our family 7 trailers in the last 5 years - so he knows us and knows we can easily sway the reputation of the dealers name if we get screwed.
#6
I pull a Puma 26-FBSS regularly. I know its not quite as heavy as yours. I think its just a bit over 6200 lbs dry. I use to pull it with my my 2008 Fx4 with no problem at all. Just really hard on gas, Cut my fuel economy by about half. i havent had the chance t pull it with my 2010 with max tow yet. I think you should have no problem pulling yours. Just gonna hit really hard at the gas station. Even more if you hit some good hills.
#7
I figured as much. Gas mileage is really the last of my concerns, I didnt buy the camper and truck to save the earth! But like I mentioned, there is no camping spot we go to, that I cant get to and most likely home, with a single tank. There are no real hills here, little if any interstate driving. I guess worst case after I pick it up in a couple of weeks, if it cant do the job, I upgrade to a F250.
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#8
It's not really whether or not the truck will pull the trailer. I have no doubt that you'll be able to hook on and drive all over hell and half of Georgia with no problems.
What you have to worry about is stopping the trailer, maintaining control in tricky situations, etc. That's where the added weight/capacity of a 3/4-ton or 1-ton comes into play. The first time you're fully loaded and a car pulls out in front of you or you have to swerve to avoid something, you may find out (too late) that you're over loaded.
What you have to worry about is stopping the trailer, maintaining control in tricky situations, etc. That's where the added weight/capacity of a 3/4-ton or 1-ton comes into play. The first time you're fully loaded and a car pulls out in front of you or you have to swerve to avoid something, you may find out (too late) that you're over loaded.
#9
Tongue specifications are usually 500lbs straight, and ~ 1100lbs with a WDH. You'll be over your specification by about 100 - 150 lbs. Enough to stop you going 45 miles to a nearby campground, nope. But on a long trip, the pucker affect will take hold when you not only overloaded your receiver but very likely your GVWR also
#10
It's not really whether or not the truck will pull the trailer. I have no doubt that you'll be able to hook on and drive all over hell and half of Georgia with no problems.
What you have to worry about is stopping the trailer, maintaining control in tricky situations, etc. That's where the added weight/capacity of a 3/4-ton or 1-ton comes into play. The first time you're fully loaded and a car pulls out in front of you or you have to swerve to avoid something, you may find out (too late) that you're over loaded.
What you have to worry about is stopping the trailer, maintaining control in tricky situations, etc. That's where the added weight/capacity of a 3/4-ton or 1-ton comes into play. The first time you're fully loaded and a car pulls out in front of you or you have to swerve to avoid something, you may find out (too late) that you're over loaded.
I say upgrade to the F250 to be safe.
#11
I have the same equipped truck as the OP and tow a 14 foot cargo trailer for our Boy Scout troop. The trailer is about 7000 to 8000 lbs loaded with a tongue of about 700 to 800 lbs (it was weighed a few years ago between these numbers). I also have a capper that's about 220 lbs. So I pretty much assume I'm starting with about 1000 lbs of payload when I tow the trailer (before I climb in the cab).
With a payload capacity of 1656 lbs, I don't have much margin for additional passengers and cargo. To stay under payload capacity, I estimate that I need to limit the payload to two passengers and their personal camping gear but I've towed that trailer with two adults, three boys and all our gear in the truck. I was probably about 500 lbs over GVWR when I had to do that. Didn't notice anything different than when I was the only person in the truck towing it with an empty bed though.
I use a WD hitch and have a setup that squats the back about 1.5 inches. The front raises about an 0.125 inches. The front and back end up being about even at the wheel wells and the tongue of the trailer is about a half inch lower than the back of the trailer.
How does it do? Acceleration is sluggish. Going uphill is sluggish. Probably a good thing becuase it reminds me to adjust my driving habits for a trailer. Because the trailer weighs more than the unloaded truck, it tends to win the battle of inertia (always the case when the trailer is heavier than the tow vehicle) but feels stable. The brakes are great though. It stops like a champ. Fuel economy? Probably about 9.8 gallons per mile. ;-)
My personal opinion is that this size trailer is about the max size you want to tow with the truck but I prefer to derate the capacity of the towing vehicle and treat it conservatively. So I'm in agreement with goducks above. I tow this trailer about 12 times a year and will do so for about three years. After that, it's the next Scoutmaster's problem.
For myself though, don't understand why anyone going camping needs a shelter that weighs more than 7 lbs. Even a Prius can handle that.
With a payload capacity of 1656 lbs, I don't have much margin for additional passengers and cargo. To stay under payload capacity, I estimate that I need to limit the payload to two passengers and their personal camping gear but I've towed that trailer with two adults, three boys and all our gear in the truck. I was probably about 500 lbs over GVWR when I had to do that. Didn't notice anything different than when I was the only person in the truck towing it with an empty bed though.
I use a WD hitch and have a setup that squats the back about 1.5 inches. The front raises about an 0.125 inches. The front and back end up being about even at the wheel wells and the tongue of the trailer is about a half inch lower than the back of the trailer.
How does it do? Acceleration is sluggish. Going uphill is sluggish. Probably a good thing becuase it reminds me to adjust my driving habits for a trailer. Because the trailer weighs more than the unloaded truck, it tends to win the battle of inertia (always the case when the trailer is heavier than the tow vehicle) but feels stable. The brakes are great though. It stops like a champ. Fuel economy? Probably about 9.8 gallons per mile. ;-)
My personal opinion is that this size trailer is about the max size you want to tow with the truck but I prefer to derate the capacity of the towing vehicle and treat it conservatively. So I'm in agreement with goducks above. I tow this trailer about 12 times a year and will do so for about three years. After that, it's the next Scoutmaster's problem.
For myself though, don't understand why anyone going camping needs a shelter that weighs more than 7 lbs. Even a Prius can handle that.
Last edited by markinzeroland; 04-06-2011 at 09:34 AM.
#12
Thanks to everyone for the responses. While i'm gung-ho to get camping as soon as it shows up, I do have some more looking into this to do. The dealer is verifying the dry weight of the tongue for that specific camper. Of course he has a story of the Dodge (cough!) Ram 1500, 2009, towing a 32' with a dry tongue weight of 1290lbs. I wont take their word for it, of course, but, like mark above said, it seems im at the far end of the truck capability right now.
Another question, should I stay with my baby (2010 SCREW).. Ive got just over 3000 miles on it, I think I read break-in before towing was 1000 miles - does anyone have any other opinions on mileage before towing?
I guess worst case, I trade it in for a 250 - I just hate to take a beautiful truck with 3000 miles and get a 250 with 20k miles to stay somewhat even in price.
Thanks again everyone
NH
Another question, should I stay with my baby (2010 SCREW).. Ive got just over 3000 miles on it, I think I read break-in before towing was 1000 miles - does anyone have any other opinions on mileage before towing?
I guess worst case, I trade it in for a 250 - I just hate to take a beautiful truck with 3000 miles and get a 250 with 20k miles to stay somewhat even in price.
Thanks again everyone
NH
#13
#14
bawahahahahah.............wait, you were serious?
Sorry, I have to agree with everyone else. You are planning on pulling way to much weight.
Any dealer that tells you that pulling a max load is safe needs to go out of businress. The industry standard is no more than 80% of the GVWR.
While you say that the dealer is verifying the tongue dry weight, ask him how much the Group 27 (or larger) battery weighs and how much the LP tanks add to it when they are filled.
All dealers look out for their own best interests, not yours.
#15
bawahahahahah.............wait, you were serious?
Sorry, I have to agree with everyone else. You are planning on pulling way to much weight.
Any dealer that tells you that pulling a max load is safe needs to go out of businress. The industry standard is no more than 80% of the GVWR.
While you say that the dealer is verifying the tongue dry weight, ask him how much the Group 27 (or larger) battery weighs and how much the LP tanks add to it when they are filled.
All dealers look out for their own best interests, not yours.
Sorry, I have to agree with everyone else. You are planning on pulling way to much weight.
Any dealer that tells you that pulling a max load is safe needs to go out of businress. The industry standard is no more than 80% of the GVWR.
While you say that the dealer is verifying the tongue dry weight, ask him how much the Group 27 (or larger) battery weighs and how much the LP tanks add to it when they are filled.
All dealers look out for their own best interests, not yours.