I just installed a One touch up window module for the drivers door and thought I would share some pics and instructions for others wishing to do the same.

First off you need to remove the door panel. In order to remove the door panel there are two screws at the bottom of the door that take a 6MM socket to remove. There is also a screw behind the door lever. You have to remove a plastic cover to gain access to the screw. I used a 90 degree o ring pick to remove the cover and then the screw takes an 8 MM socket.



The final screw is in the little hole that you grab to pull the door shut. Again there is a little cover that needs to be removed first.



Also the switch assembly needs to be pried up from the door to remove the conectors. There are just 3 clips that hold that on.



Then lift the door panel straight up a few inches and remove the connector for the mirrors. The last thing to disconnect is the door latch cable. There are two tabs that can be squezed together to remove it. This will make it easier by not having the door panel in your way.



The one touch up module I bought is an Autoloc WC1000. It was about $45 with shipping. To install I had to cut two wires to the window switch.
The first is the window up switch (Blue/ Silver). The instructions tell you which wires from the module to connect to the switch side and the motor side of the cut blue/ silver wire. I cut the wires about 10-12" inches from the switch. I did not have to peel any conduit back at this spot.

The next two wires go to the window down wire. This wire is yellow/ purple. Again the instructions tell you which wires to connect to the switch side and motor side of this cut wire.



The last two wires and for power and ground. I connected them to the wires that go to the switch too even though the instructions want you to go to the fuse panel or battery but using the two wires at the switch work fine too. I did not cut these two wires in half, instead I simply cut about 1/2 inch of insulation from these wires and soldered the wires from the module to the factory wires and then wrapped them in electrical tape. You could use those blue scotch lock connecters but I despise those. The power wire is green / blue and the ground I used is the brown / yellow. There are two grounds at the switch so you could use either one.



I mounted the module to the inside of the door panel just in front of the hole where the switch assembly snaps into place. There is enough room there and it allowed me to easily connect and disconnect it if I ever have to remove the door panel again. It has two tabs for using screws to attach it however I cut those off and used some left over 3M double sided tape to stick it to the door panel.



Then its just a matter of putting the door panel back together and plugging everything back together. Now you can enjoy having one touch up and down on the drivers window. I did hold my hand in the window to stop the window while having it travel up and it will stop going up if there is too much resistance. The only other thing I noticed is that you can't close the two front windows at the same time. If you have the drivers window going up and go to close the passengers the drivers will stop but I can live with that.

 

Sweet but what would be better is make all the windows one touch up/down now that would be the cats meow.....

 

That would be nice having all 4 be one touch up/down. I don't know if its gonna be possible to do though because there is only 5 wires in 1 connector that controls all 4 switches and I used 4 of them for the drivers so I think we might be limited to the drivers only as of now.

 

I have all windows one touch up and down. It also didnt cost me anything as the guys who installed my Alarm used the auto close modules with the alarm to make it work.

 

Hello this is my first post as I have been reading and learning from this site for over a year... I just purchased two wc1000 units for my 2010 f150 and found your post to be helpful. The reason for my reply is that you have I believe an error in your "ground" assumption that is causing your passenger window to stop going up while raising your drivers window. The brown/yellow stripe wire is NOT a ground but actually the power up line for your passenger window. I believe the only ground in the two sets of window switches is actually a black wire with a purple stripe that is on the harness with the rear window switches.

Since I used a simple volt meter and teched each wire I will provide my results for everyones benefit:

Blue-Grey wire with a silver stripe is the drivers "up" power
yellow with a purple stripe is the drivers "down" power
brown with a yellow stripe is the front passenger "up" power
green with an orange stripe is the front passenger "down" power
Green with a blue stripe is the KEYED "HOT"

on the second pigtail plugged into the lower switch area:

Yellow solid is the back left passenger "down" power
blue with an orange stripe is the back left passenger "up" power
brown with a green stripe is the back right "down" power
grey with a purple stripe is the back right "up" power

purple with a white stripe is a switched "HOT" for the lock/unlock button
Black with a purple stripe is the ground for the entire module

I have not installed my two units yet but will post my results soon.

 

This is a follow up to my earlier post today... I installed two wc1000 units into the drivers door below the window switch component. Now both front windows are auto up/down... I did test my units compared to JDTECH65 above and do NOT have the same problem of "one at a time"... all four windows can be active at once. The ground wire is *** Black with a puple stripe*** JDTECH has tied his ground into the passenger window temporary hot line that he thought was a ground. Hopefully he will read this before he has a short/fire...!!!

Also, I did not have to remove the entire door panelas he suggested, all of my splices as referenced in his post were able to be completed without removing the door panel. Both WC1000 units fit nicely along the exterior wall of the door using 3m doublesided tape. I also stuffed in there the directions and wire diagram for future reference if ever needed. These units come with a fuse and therefore consideration should be given to easy access! I also followed as referenced in JDTECH65 above tapped both units into the "keyed hot" and used the comon ground (black/purple stripe). The instructions ask for a new hot and a new ground. That's a big deal in a door and doesn't appear to be needed. All is good up front for a lazy driver...

 

Only if I ever wanted to do this I would wait until the warranty has expired. I know it’s cool to have something different but my windows work fine like they are.