Installing power windows in an '09 XL
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From: WNY
Installing power windows in an '09 XL
Just a quick and dirty description if anyone is interested in trying it. I will tell you it was MUCH easier than I thought. In fact I would have tackled this project before power locks if I knew it was this easy. Oh, sorry that the pictures flip between driver and passenger side. There is no difference between the sides in the removal process.
First for the tools:
8mm and 10mm socket
flat blade screw driver (to remove door panel)
#20 (I think) 'star' screwdriver to remove manual crank
Wire stripper and pliers for electrical
Some 12gauge wiring and some connectors
A 9v or 12v battery (Lantern battery, small tractor battery)
For the parts, go to Tasca and get the Ford parts. They are cheaper than a kit, and there is no drilling involved. Let me repeat that: THERE IS NO DRILLING INVOLVED! This bolts right into place.
Here is the link to the page (with an attached illustration):
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocato...layCatalogid=2
I have part IDs of 9162374 and 9162375.
Finally, I picked up a switch kit from A1electric.com
I won't duplicate taking the door panel off. Look up anyone who has changed speakers and there should be several threads on removing the door panel.
Make sure the window is all the way up, and secure it with some tape so it doesn't fall down. Don't get stingy, tape is cheaper than a new window!
Once the panel off, remove the black moisture barrier too, so you are down to the bare metal:
First thing to do is remove the 'clamps' that are holding the bottom of the glass in place. If you look above you will see two squares highlighted. If you look inside the holes, you will see a 10mm bolt. It doesn't need much, just a few turns to loosen them.
Now, take the handle you removed from the manual crank, slip it over the spindle and slowly crank the window down. If you loosed the bolts enough, the window will stay in place, as the tape holds it up.
Feel inside and make sure the window has slipped out of the channel (roll the window clamps all the way down if you want). Now, just remove the 5 bolts I highlighted above in circles. Two for each track, and one for the manual crank. Once everything is loose, go ahead and wrestle it out. It should all come out of the access hole with just a little pushing and pulling.
Put your manual regulator to the side. You're done with it.
Now, over to the new motor. Sorry I didn't get a picture of it, I thought I did. Anyway, the layout of the new assembly should look almost the same as the one you just pulled out. All that is different is the motor. There are only two terminals in the wiring harness attached to the motor. Hook a 8-12" wire to each terminal (sorry for the bad blur, only picture I got):
Strip the ends of the short wires. Now, using that battery I mentioned in the parts above, go ahead and touch each wire to a terminal. I used an old 9v screwdriver battery. Be careful NOT to exceed a 12v source, or you may burn the motor out. Depending on which terminals on the battery, the window clamps will go up or down the tracks. Make sure they are not all the way up. Leave them in the middle for now.
Now just reverse the extraction process. The new tracks will line up right with the bolt holes for the manual tracks, and there is even a second hole that the power motor lines up with. Screw everything down, but not too tight in case you need to adjust.
Now, get that battery again. Using the dangling wires from the motor, send the window clamps back up the tracks to the top.
You can use your fingers to try to confirm the glass is back in the new slots. Once you have them, tighten those bolts down. Again, only a few turns should do it.
Pull the tape from the windows, and use the battery to lower the window. BINGO, you have power windows. Now tighten all those bolts back into place.
For the wiring, I will leave you with the instructions that come with the kits. Note that windows will require a 25amp circuit, so make sure you don't underpower it, or you will blow fuses. Also, test the switches before you button things up. Make sure up goes up and down goes down. If they are reversed, just flip the short wires coming from the motor.
The whole thing cost me under $200 (with switches), and except for pulling wiring, the new hardware was installed in about 60 minutes a door. I haven't figure out where to mount the switches yet, but once I do, I will update this post. For now I just pulled the switches through the manual crank hole and they are just hanging out.
First for the tools:
8mm and 10mm socket
flat blade screw driver (to remove door panel)
#20 (I think) 'star' screwdriver to remove manual crank
Wire stripper and pliers for electrical
Some 12gauge wiring and some connectors
A 9v or 12v battery (Lantern battery, small tractor battery)
For the parts, go to Tasca and get the Ford parts. They are cheaper than a kit, and there is no drilling involved. Let me repeat that: THERE IS NO DRILLING INVOLVED! This bolts right into place.
Here is the link to the page (with an attached illustration):
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocato...layCatalogid=2
I have part IDs of 9162374 and 9162375.
Finally, I picked up a switch kit from A1electric.com
I won't duplicate taking the door panel off. Look up anyone who has changed speakers and there should be several threads on removing the door panel.
Make sure the window is all the way up, and secure it with some tape so it doesn't fall down. Don't get stingy, tape is cheaper than a new window!
Once the panel off, remove the black moisture barrier too, so you are down to the bare metal:
First thing to do is remove the 'clamps' that are holding the bottom of the glass in place. If you look above you will see two squares highlighted. If you look inside the holes, you will see a 10mm bolt. It doesn't need much, just a few turns to loosen them.
Now, take the handle you removed from the manual crank, slip it over the spindle and slowly crank the window down. If you loosed the bolts enough, the window will stay in place, as the tape holds it up.
Feel inside and make sure the window has slipped out of the channel (roll the window clamps all the way down if you want). Now, just remove the 5 bolts I highlighted above in circles. Two for each track, and one for the manual crank. Once everything is loose, go ahead and wrestle it out. It should all come out of the access hole with just a little pushing and pulling.
Put your manual regulator to the side. You're done with it.
Now, over to the new motor. Sorry I didn't get a picture of it, I thought I did. Anyway, the layout of the new assembly should look almost the same as the one you just pulled out. All that is different is the motor. There are only two terminals in the wiring harness attached to the motor. Hook a 8-12" wire to each terminal (sorry for the bad blur, only picture I got):
Strip the ends of the short wires. Now, using that battery I mentioned in the parts above, go ahead and touch each wire to a terminal. I used an old 9v screwdriver battery. Be careful NOT to exceed a 12v source, or you may burn the motor out. Depending on which terminals on the battery, the window clamps will go up or down the tracks. Make sure they are not all the way up. Leave them in the middle for now.
Now just reverse the extraction process. The new tracks will line up right with the bolt holes for the manual tracks, and there is even a second hole that the power motor lines up with. Screw everything down, but not too tight in case you need to adjust.
Now, get that battery again. Using the dangling wires from the motor, send the window clamps back up the tracks to the top.
You can use your fingers to try to confirm the glass is back in the new slots. Once you have them, tighten those bolts down. Again, only a few turns should do it.
Pull the tape from the windows, and use the battery to lower the window. BINGO, you have power windows. Now tighten all those bolts back into place.
For the wiring, I will leave you with the instructions that come with the kits. Note that windows will require a 25amp circuit, so make sure you don't underpower it, or you will blow fuses. Also, test the switches before you button things up. Make sure up goes up and down goes down. If they are reversed, just flip the short wires coming from the motor.
The whole thing cost me under $200 (with switches), and except for pulling wiring, the new hardware was installed in about 60 minutes a door. I haven't figure out where to mount the switches yet, but once I do, I will update this post. For now I just pulled the switches through the manual crank hole and they are just hanging out.