I just purchased my 2010 F150 OFF-ROAD TRUCK with OEM BRAKE CONTROLLER. Hooked it up to my POPUP TRAILER and dash consoled showed it connected and allowed me to SET my DC CONTROL VOLTAGE. My question is I only see the DASH MESSAGE showing the BRAKE CONTROLLER INFO when I use the MANUAL DASH CONTOLS and not when pushing on the BRAKE PEDAL... Is there something else I need to turn on. I dont think the BRAKE CONTROLLER is working when pushing the BRAKE PEDAL. It may not suppose to do this ??? The MANUAL SWITCH definately works the electric brakes. Will slide the trailer tires so I down adjusted the voltage to 3.0 VDC which seems to be best.

DOES THE 2010 FORD INSTALLED OEM BRAKE CONTROLLER ONLY WORK WITH THE HAND OPERATED HAND SWITCH ???? My older truck had the prodigy model installed which worked with both the MANAL SWITCH and the BRAKE PEDAL...

 

I think a 2010 should be on warranty - have you contacted the dealer yet? If the brakes don't work when using the brake pedal, it's not working!

 

Thanks - I will take it back to dealer next week. Just thought it might be something simple that I needed to turn on or something...

The MANUAL FINGER SWITCH works like gang busters... Of course the TRUCK BRAKES work ok using the BRAKE PEDAL, it just doesnt show any DASH DISPLAY for the TRAILER BRAKES when I apply the BRAKE PEDAL. I really dont know if it is working or not. I can stop the 4200 LB trailer ok - Just thinking the DISPLAY should come up when I apply brakes. Thought someone else on here that has one INSTALLED would know for sure that the DASH DISPLAY comes up when you are connected to a TRAILER and APPLY FOOT PEDAL BRAKES...

Thanks again......

 

I noticed the same thing yesterday when i first hooked up the trailer to the new truck. I kept raising the level but nothing changed. The manual button work fine tho. Is there anything that has to be changed in the settings? Didnt really have time to look at it just yet. The truck goes to the dealer tomorrow anyway, i might just have them look at it then.

 

PTEMOMO - Be sure to post what you learned... I almost think there is something else we need to do to "ACTIVATE" it maybe since it works so good in MANUAL MODE.

I also noticed the 7-pin trailer connector was not as tight as my other 2004 F150 was. I inspected all of that and wiggled things around real good. Everything else seems to work. Today i jacked up one wheel on the TRAILER and confirmed it worked GREAT in manual mode and no wheel drag at all in the PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL MODE... I also made sure all of the FUSES associated with the ELECTRIC BRAKE MODULE was in place too... Sort of at a loss what to check next. I know what FORD is oging to say - "looks good on our machine must be your trailer" haha... Then I will have to make another 50 mile trip towing in the trailer with only manual brake control working...

I hate to say this but Im a bit somewhat relieved to find someone else with similar problem

 

I will when i get the truck back today. The weird thing i found out yesterday doing some test is, if i turn off the truck and turn it back on, i can see input from the brake pedal for about a second and then it disappear. I have no idea whats going on. My 08 with after market controller never had any problem with the trailer.

 

Roy and PT,

I towed my camper numerous times last year, and a car trailer with my 69 GTO on it once; OEM brake controller worked great, and I never saw anything on the dash display when using the brake pedal. I think you are only supposed to get a message on the dash display when pushing the slide lever or adjusting the gain.

 

DAVEH370 - I was thinking that as well so a couple of days ago I JACKED up my trailer and hooked up the TRAILER CABLE sitting in my CAMP BACKYARD. I confirmed what I was thinking if it worked or not. It worked REAL GOOD using the MANUAL SWITCH but I had no drag or head any noise of the BRAKE SELENOID kicking in when using the BRAKE PEDAL.. I could hear it kick in using the MANUAL METHOD.

I did learn if you move the MESSAGE CENTER to a BLANK PAGE I could see the BRAKE INFORMATION and it was indicating BRAKES APPLIED using the BRAKE PEDAL. However I still DID not get any BRAKE DRAG on the jacked up trailer wheel. Then if you opened a door or do probably anything then the MESSAGE CENTER showing the BRAKE INFORMATION went away and you had to go look for it again...

Im hopinh it isnt a hard fix. The MANUAL CONTROL SLIDES the tariler wheel like gang busters if you leave the voltage setting at 10 VDC... This tells me it is all hooked up ok I think... Im justing waiting for PT to post some info - My dealer is some 40 miles away...

I was wanting to go camping the end of the month and will probably go ahead. Its a somewhat local camp ground and my truck does ok controlling the 4200 lb trailer. I have full control using the manual switch at stop lights...

 

Truck just came back from the dealer. They said they hooked it up to the machine and everything was normal. They even compared it to another truck with same result. I tryed the trailer today again. Same thing. I looked under it at the brake and get a buzzing sound with the manual but nothing is happening with the brake pedal. Dealer wants me to go for a test drive with the shop foreman tomorrow to show them the problem. Pain in the a** for sure....

 

PT - That was what I expecting to hear haha... I might as well drag my trailer with me when I go in... Will save a 100 miles on gas...

Did you see the BRAKE SCREEN show up when you used the BRAKE PEDAL after they looked at it...

There was one other issue I didnt like - The TRAILER PLUG doesnt go in as tight as I would like. Maybe the 7 pins are'nt all seated good... I could wiggle mine around after closing the snap and finally got a ERROR message for NOT CONNECTED ???? Maybe we both need NEW TRAILER 30AMP CORDS. Mine is at least 5-years old now...

Since the MANUAL MODE SLIDES both my wheels (got black marks on the road right outside my house so I know both wheels getting the DC VOLTAGE... Almost tells me its working haha

I kinda want to get behind the CONSOLE and wiggle the connector plug on the back of the CONTROLLER...

Ill definately be awaiting your next post..... Thanks for quick POST...

 

Update. I think the trailer was the problem... I look at the braking system and found a fuse in-line that was blown. Replaced it and now i can see my output from the brake on the dash. I didn't do a test drive yet but it looks good now. I feel quite stupid right about now,

 

hmmmm I was thinking you said it seemed to work your brakes using the MANUAL MODE. My MANUAL MODE shows the DISPLAY on the DASH and will SLIDE the TRAILER BRAKES going down the road. When I use the FOOT BRAKE I didnt see any DISPLAY and DID NOT HAVE BRAKING ACTION on the trailer side... I kinda wish I could you to JACK UP one wheel on your trailer and see for sure it WORKING with both DASH VIEW and BRAKING ACTION on the trailer WHEEL...

Im not aware of a TRAILER FUSE either... Where was that located. All of that system has nothing to do with the CONVERTER DC fuses... My large 30AMP cable feeds a electrical box and that is where all the seven wires are connected to the trailer wiring for lights and BRAKES. The only thing connected to the TRAILER BATTERY SYSTEM is the TRAILER BRAKE PULL SWITCH as I recall... My trailer is a STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP. I just might have to back my truck up to my 5th wheel trailer and connect up. I know it has a buzz sound when the electric brakes gets a voltage whereas my trailer brakes doesnt do that. They just click real loud... I will definately hook up to my 5th WHEEL that I dont use at all for camping now and see if the brakes works on it... Thanks for the UPDATES. Gonna solve this one way or another haha... I still have my PRODIGY UNIT I pulled off the OLD TRUCK when traded for the 2010... It worked great too...

 

PT - let me know where the FUSE was located on your trailer ... Thanks...

Im going to look now at my mine a bit closer...

 

PT - Now you got me thinking again - Thats dangerous when I get to thinking. When I field tested my POPUP trailer I dont think I had the BATTERY BANK switch turned to the ON position. Maybe there is sometine that gets back to the TRUCK SYSTEM via the connection... I know I heard guys on the RV.NET talk about using the TRUCK to charge up the TRAILER BATTERYs when driving down the road between camp grounds... Thinking back I know I can turn on the OUTSIDE DOOR LAMP of the trailer when my trailer BATTERY SWITCH is OFF-LINE so the only way that can work is get DC from the TRUCK CONNECTION.

I am still sitting in front of my POPUP so I will engage the TRAILER BATTERIES and do another BRAKE TEST before I unhook my trailer cable and move to the 5TH WHEEL TRAILER... That may the voltage the CONSOLE is looking for to engage the BRAKE SCREEN on the truck side... It does say I AM CONNECTED however - already seen that...

 

PT - Back from this round of BRAKE TESTS. I engaged my TRAILER BATTERY BANKS on my POPUP and did the same BRAKE TEST AS BEFORE. I still have one wheel jacked up on the POPUPP. Same RESULTS Stops the wheel when only using the MANUAL BRAKES and nothing happens when using the FOOT PEDAL.

Now I moved to the 5TH WHEEL TRAILER which hasnt been plugged into for over a year now. Not ALL the running lights came up the first time I plugged in. I wiggled some more and still didnt get all the lights to come up so went and did my BRAKE TEST. I could hear the BUZZ TONE on the 5th WHEEL TRAILER only when I did the MANUAL BRAKE TEST. Nothing on the BRAKE PEDAL test. Then I went back and was looking the running lights and wiggled the CONNECTOR at the TRUCK in and out again several times and pushed in hard a couple of times. Then I noticed one of the running lights that was off before is now lit up. I did the BRAKE TEST AGAIN and this time I could definately hear the BUZZ SOUND in the TRAILER BRAKES in both the MANUAL TEST and the FOOT PEDAL TEST. Now what ??? I guess this is going back to my other observation where the TRAILER CONNECTOR on the TRUCK is not as tight as the one was on my 2004 F150. I have seen it work now on the 5TH WHEEL. Im sure hearing the BUZZ sound means the ELECTRIC BRAKES are getting their voltage ok... I will measure voltages tomorrow at the JUNCTION BOX and see if the BRAKE VOLTAGE IS THERE on the POPUP I guess. Sure wish I had a real long foot. Like 20-foot haha... Having my daughter doing the pedal pushing for me. "Can you hear me now ???"

The one thing I have learned here is the MANUAL SLIDE has worked both times on the 5th WHEEL TEST and then I wiggled the CONNECTOR real hard and finally got both the SLIDER switch and the BRAKE PEDAL to sound the BUZZ TONE I hear in the 5th WHEEL ELECTRIC BRAKES.

The CONNECTORs dont look all that good on either the 5th WHEEL or the POPUP cable SIDE so maybe what I really need to do is REPLACE the POPUP 7-PIN TRAILER CONNECTOR. It has almost 5-years on it now and was used alot. At least if I had a brand new TRAILER CABLE I could do VOLTMETER TEST sitting in the front seat of the TRUCK with the cable plugged into the trailer connector... Its only money... Thats probably a $100 cable assy hehe...