Bambi Mod?
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Bambi Mod?
Has there been a bambi mod setup for the 09-10's yet?
For those of you that are unaware of the bambi mod:
I was for the 2004-2008 f150's to allow the fogs to stay on when you use the high beams. You basically ran a jumper wire to a ground from the relay.
For those of you that are unaware of the bambi mod:
I was for the 2004-2008 f150's to allow the fogs to stay on when you use the high beams. You basically ran a jumper wire to a ground from the relay.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Fort Myers, FL
Not in the case where the computer controlled box runs the lights. The SJB will prove to be the next hurdle for modders. I am sure it can be reprogrammed or defeated but give it time.
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Wydaho
One could run a jumper wire between the +wire on the high beams and the +wire on the fogs.(or the -wire, not sure which side is switched) Then the highs would trigger the fogs. A diode would be needed on the jumper wire to prevent the fogs from triggering the highs. Not as simple as the original Bambi mod but should work, as long as the factory wiring can handle double the wattage.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
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From: Fort Myers, FL
One could run a jumper wire between the +wire on the high beams and the +wire on the fogs.(or the -wire, not sure which side is switched) Then the highs would trigger the fogs. A diode would be needed on the jumper wire to prevent the fogs from triggering the highs. Not as simple as the original Bambi mod but should work, as long as the factory wiring can handle double the wattage.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
I don’t know about you guys but I don’t care about the way the auto makers control the
use of fog lights that come on our trucks. I didn’t want to have to turn my parking lights
on just so I would be able to turn my fog lights on. I wanted a choice, and here is how I
fixed it.
First off, my F-150 is a 2010 and I ordered it with factory fog lights. I still can’t
understand why there are called “Fog Lights” when they are white lights and not the
TRUE yellow I grew up with BUT I guess things have changed over the years.
In order to get full control of your factory fog lights on a 2010 F-150 you’re going to
have to give up using the factory fog light switch that is part of all your lighting. So that
said, here is what to do. You’re going to have to know a little about wiring also.
1) Remove the negative (-) wire from your battery.
2) Remove the in-cab fuse panel cover. It’s located on the passenger side kick space
3) Remove fuse cover then remove fuse # 21 and store it away. You won’t use it again.
4) Replace fuse cover and kick panel.
5) Open drivers door and remove access panel on left side of dash.
6) If you have access to a mirror and flashlight, look on the back side of the dash lights dimmer pot assy. You’ll see how it’s held in the dash. Reach in with one hand and work it out until it falls out and hangs by its cable.
7) Unplug the dimmer cable. Now look at the back of the dimmer assy. Lots of room to drill a hole and add a switch. I installed a Radio Shack on/off switch that is illuminated when turned on. I located it in the right side area beside the dimmer pot.
8) Next you’re going to need at least # 16 gauge two conductor wire, a fuse holder, four push on connectors, one in-line connector and one tap-a-line connector.
9) Run the two conductor wire from the dimmer pot hole inside the cab through the fire wall (you’ll find a big rubber area under the dash where a main wiring harness comes through. Punch a hole in the rubber beside the wire harness) to the left head light area.
10) If you’re using Red and Black two conductor wire, cut the wire long enough to get to the center of the fuse/relay panel in front almost on top of the radiator.
11) Separate the red and black wire. Keep the red wire at the fuse/relay area and run the black to the left fog light area.
12) Unplug the left fog light wire. Work the wire to a area where you can work on it.
13) Using a razor blade knife, cut some of the tape away to expose two wires that feed the plug.
14) Locate the GREEN wire with WHITE stripe. The other wire should be black. You will NOT tap into the BLACK wire! It is ground.
15) Route the black wire from the red and black you separated to the area you unplugged the fog light wire.
16) Using the tap-a-line connector, connect it to the GREEN with WITE strip wire. Tape it all back up and re-plug it back into the fog light. If you could not locate a tap-a-line connector, you can also bare the green with white strip wire and make a connection then solder it.
17) Take the red wire and connect it to one end of the fuse holder using the inline (butt) connector.
18) Open the fuse/relay panel cover. You’ll see lots of unused connectors. They are ALL hot (not switched) when the battery connection is re-installed.
19) Route the other end of the fuse holder wire to get inside the fuse/relay box. I routed mine to a hole where there is a unused relay socket with nothing in it on the right side (drivers side) of that box. You’ll even see light if you're looking down into it.
20) Now install a push on connector to that wire. Make sure the connector you use will push on all one of the free ones you see.
21) Now push it on to a free post you see in that box. Remember, they are ALL hot when you re-connect the battery.
22) You’ll need to bend the end of the connector you just pushed on just enough to be able to close the box cover.
23) Install a five amp fuse in the fuse holder you installed.
24) Inside the cab take the RED and BLACK wire you ran to the front of the truck and just hooked up and now install those wires to the switch you bought for the project. If you bought a illuminated switch from Radio Shack (like I did), hook it up using its directions. You’ll need to run a ground wire to that type of switch also.
Easy to locate a good ground under the dash area.
25) DON’T snap the dimmer with the new switch installed back into the dash yet!
26) Make sure the switch you installed is shut OFF.
27) Re-connect the battery negative.
28) Turn the new switch on and check to see if both fog lights are on. They should be.
29) If you wired everything correct, re-connect the dimmer wire then snap it back into the dash.
30) Re-install the cover on the left side of the dash.
31) Re-set your clock! YOU’RE FINISNED!
What you just did was you BYPASSED all the factory wiring without messing anything up. Removing fuse # 21 prevents any back feed. The factory fog switch does nothing any longer. Now you have fog lights when YOU want them on EVEN with your bright lights turned on.
I know there was a MOD you can make in the 2009 and earlier models but that mod can not be done in the 2010’s. At least I did not see how when I read the mod on this site.
Good luck and get HELP if you need it!
use of fog lights that come on our trucks. I didn’t want to have to turn my parking lights
on just so I would be able to turn my fog lights on. I wanted a choice, and here is how I
fixed it.
First off, my F-150 is a 2010 and I ordered it with factory fog lights. I still can’t
understand why there are called “Fog Lights” when they are white lights and not the
TRUE yellow I grew up with BUT I guess things have changed over the years.
In order to get full control of your factory fog lights on a 2010 F-150 you’re going to
have to give up using the factory fog light switch that is part of all your lighting. So that
said, here is what to do. You’re going to have to know a little about wiring also.
1) Remove the negative (-) wire from your battery.
2) Remove the in-cab fuse panel cover. It’s located on the passenger side kick space
3) Remove fuse cover then remove fuse # 21 and store it away. You won’t use it again.
4) Replace fuse cover and kick panel.
5) Open drivers door and remove access panel on left side of dash.
6) If you have access to a mirror and flashlight, look on the back side of the dash lights dimmer pot assy. You’ll see how it’s held in the dash. Reach in with one hand and work it out until it falls out and hangs by its cable.
7) Unplug the dimmer cable. Now look at the back of the dimmer assy. Lots of room to drill a hole and add a switch. I installed a Radio Shack on/off switch that is illuminated when turned on. I located it in the right side area beside the dimmer pot.
8) Next you’re going to need at least # 16 gauge two conductor wire, a fuse holder, four push on connectors, one in-line connector and one tap-a-line connector.
9) Run the two conductor wire from the dimmer pot hole inside the cab through the fire wall (you’ll find a big rubber area under the dash where a main wiring harness comes through. Punch a hole in the rubber beside the wire harness) to the left head light area.
10) If you’re using Red and Black two conductor wire, cut the wire long enough to get to the center of the fuse/relay panel in front almost on top of the radiator.
11) Separate the red and black wire. Keep the red wire at the fuse/relay area and run the black to the left fog light area.
12) Unplug the left fog light wire. Work the wire to a area where you can work on it.
13) Using a razor blade knife, cut some of the tape away to expose two wires that feed the plug.
14) Locate the GREEN wire with WHITE stripe. The other wire should be black. You will NOT tap into the BLACK wire! It is ground.
15) Route the black wire from the red and black you separated to the area you unplugged the fog light wire.
16) Using the tap-a-line connector, connect it to the GREEN with WITE strip wire. Tape it all back up and re-plug it back into the fog light. If you could not locate a tap-a-line connector, you can also bare the green with white strip wire and make a connection then solder it.
17) Take the red wire and connect it to one end of the fuse holder using the inline (butt) connector.
18) Open the fuse/relay panel cover. You’ll see lots of unused connectors. They are ALL hot (not switched) when the battery connection is re-installed.
19) Route the other end of the fuse holder wire to get inside the fuse/relay box. I routed mine to a hole where there is a unused relay socket with nothing in it on the right side (drivers side) of that box. You’ll even see light if you're looking down into it.
20) Now install a push on connector to that wire. Make sure the connector you use will push on all one of the free ones you see.
21) Now push it on to a free post you see in that box. Remember, they are ALL hot when you re-connect the battery.
22) You’ll need to bend the end of the connector you just pushed on just enough to be able to close the box cover.
23) Install a five amp fuse in the fuse holder you installed.
24) Inside the cab take the RED and BLACK wire you ran to the front of the truck and just hooked up and now install those wires to the switch you bought for the project. If you bought a illuminated switch from Radio Shack (like I did), hook it up using its directions. You’ll need to run a ground wire to that type of switch also.
Easy to locate a good ground under the dash area.
25) DON’T snap the dimmer with the new switch installed back into the dash yet!
26) Make sure the switch you installed is shut OFF.
27) Re-connect the battery negative.
28) Turn the new switch on and check to see if both fog lights are on. They should be.
29) If you wired everything correct, re-connect the dimmer wire then snap it back into the dash.
30) Re-install the cover on the left side of the dash.
31) Re-set your clock! YOU’RE FINISNED!
What you just did was you BYPASSED all the factory wiring without messing anything up. Removing fuse # 21 prevents any back feed. The factory fog switch does nothing any longer. Now you have fog lights when YOU want them on EVEN with your bright lights turned on.
I know there was a MOD you can make in the 2009 and earlier models but that mod can not be done in the 2010’s. At least I did not see how when I read the mod on this site.
Good luck and get HELP if you need it!