I was looking from some input from those that have installed these on the 09 models. I went to install mine today after getting done with the HID heads and fogs and ran into a little problem. On the right hand side there is a raised section about 3 inches wide that won't allow it to sit completly flat. Its almost like you need another one of those little spacers to get it to sit flat over that ridge. Heres a couple pics showing it.

 

My 06 had the same ordeal

From looking at the last pic you posted, the screw was almost right to the edge of the nearest protrusion on the bed, so I trimmed to the left of the screw and stuck that piece behind the original tab to sort of "stack" them so it lined up.

 

Thanks, thats what I was kinda figuring I would have to do. But it won't matter if the right side is back another 1/4 inch compared to the left side, nobody will ever notice. Otherwise I was thinking the lightbar would flex over piece without any "spacer" but I think the tape would come apart quicker then with the added tension.

The first pic is centered and the second one is to show the difference in gap.

 

That tape is pretty serious stuff, I had a recon line of fire on my ranger for probably about 4 years in ever changing northeast winter months, never showed any signs of coming loose. Just make sure ya clean off the surface real good and don't look back

Here is how it looks even tho that right side does not exactly come straight across, I can't even tell unless you pull the gate down and look at it.

 

Did you hard-wire it or use the flat plug. Some of the "reviews" on the light bar talk about issues with kit if you hard-wire it. Most issues revolve around finding a always "hot" wire for bar to work properly. I have a '09 FX-4 scab "flare-side". THANKS

 

First I'll start off by saying I ended up drilling a new hole in the bar to move the right hand pad as far right as I could go. Then I cut the pad in half and doubled them up.

I hardwired mine in. I had to hardwire in for a power wire and for the reverse lights so then I also hardwired in the left and right turn and brake lights and ground wires. I did not attach the wire for the running lights. When I got the bar I could see how many people could have problems later after hardwiring them in if they used those scotch lock connectors they send with it. Do yourself a favor and throw those in the garbage. I cut about 1/2" of the coating on the wires and then soldered the wires into the wires leading to the seven pin connector. Then I just taped them up with electrical tape and taped the conduit back up on the harness good again. Also there is a power wire at the seven pin connector you just have to install a relay and fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. These are supplied with the trailer brake controller package inside the glovebox (at least they were on mine). They are labeled in the ops. manual as trailer battery feed I believe.

 

Thanks jdtech65

You stated you did not attach wire for running lights?? Still a little confused. I have a four flat pin connector and 2 extra wires for reverse and power. I was planning on connecting all 6 wires. Also, your definitely right about those connectors(I only use marine grade connectors with adhesive lined shrink wrap). It sounds like all (6) wires can be connected to leads going to (7) pin connector. Also, how did the HID install come out, which ones did you use. Thanks for your help.

 

I did not connect the wire for the running lights because I just wanted it to act as a brake light and turn signals and then have the backup lights too. All 6 can be powered up off the seven pin, just match the wires to the labels on the cover.

The HIDS turned out well. I went with McCulloch bi-xenon hids in the headlights. I had pro vision hids in the foglights and had interference with the radio reception just with the foglights on. So they exhachanged the provision ballasts for mcculloch ballasts to fix my lack of radio reception with the foglights on. No problems with the headlights though.